Stovebolt.com Forums The Shop Area Driveline 1952 3100 Dual Master Cylinder Conversion

I'd like to convert the single-reservoir master cylinder on my 1952 3100 to a dual-reservoir master. I'll be keeping non-power, stock-style drum brakes. I found this kit at Performance Online (POL) and was wondering if anybody had used it. I've not ordered from them before so wanted to get some feedback first.

Additionally, has anybody done a write-up or have pictures of how they routed the brake lines when doing this conversion? I tried searching the interwebs and came back with lots of pics and threads about the actual master cylinder swap, but not much about running the lines. Any links, tips, tricks, or pics would be much appreciated. Thanks!!

It is super simple to convert your single reservoir to the dual. I would really recommend the swap!! Easy peesy!!


Elmo

Easy peasy ??????

Maybe the swap is a “5” on difficulty scale of 1-10. But highly dependent on your skills, experience and tools available.

1. The master should “bolt right up”.........key word should.

2. You have to run a few new brake lines which means buying premade lines then bending to fit or buying line and fittings then cutting and flaring custom lines to fit. Not rocket science........but does take some skills and few common tools.
Depends on the age of the current lines........but all new lines and rubber hoses might be a good idea.

3.After it’s installed bleeding and adjustment would be similar to the stock. Even bleeding can be a challenge for some. Bench bleed the master is good idea and critical step in some situations. The height of the master compared to wheel cylinders can be part of the bleeding challenges.

Mine has been done but I had it done. One thing I do remember is to fill it is difficult it has a plastic bottle with a long bent tube to fill from underneath. I believe because of the hole in the floor does not line up anymore so I had a remote fill installed on the engine side of the firewall. I just got back from a 1400 mile trip and I could tell the pads had worn so checked the remote fill and it was halfway down so I filled it. I always take some along.This might help

This is the kind of feedback I was looking for. The installation of the new master and bracket is pretty straight forward, but I wasn't sure if I could use the existing lines. The lines were all replaced during the restoration a few years ago. With the stock master, there's one small line that comes out of the back and goes to the left front wheel; then there's a fat line that runs to the passenger side frame rail and tees off--one line goes to the front right wheel and then one line goes to the rear axle where it tees again to go to both rear wheels. With the front wheels having completely separate lines on either side of the truck, how do I get them both on the same line to the master? It also seems like I would have to run a new line for rears from the master to the existing tee on the passenger side frame rail and probably replace that tee with a 90--removing the right front line and keeping the existing line that goes to the rear. This is why I was hoping someone had done a write-up or could share pictures of how they did their lines.

As for the remote fill, I looked into that, however all of the remote fill kits I've seen are for dual bail masters and all of the drum/drum masters are single bail so I don't think the remote fill would work. I'm not too terribly worried about this as it's not a terrible PITA to get under the truck and check the fluid so long as I have enough room between the top of the master and floorboard.

text me i have picture on my phone

Be sure you do your homework on master cylinder and wheel cylinder diameter and stroke, and the other physical properties of the brake system. A master cylinder that's used with a power booster will be totally different in diameter and stroke than one for a non-boosted system. The size of the reservoirs will be different also. Just because somebody's willing to sell you something they claim will fit doesn't mean they'll be there with a wheelbarrow full of cash to pay your defense lawyer when your poorly-engineered brake system causes you to run over a mini-van full of curtain climbers.
Jerry

Thanks for the pics, 66flea!

@Hotrod Lincoln - Definitely good advice. I've been scouring the web about this type of conversion for a few weeks now to make sure I've got my P's and Q's in order. Thank you!

I used the POL bracket and ordered the dual master from Rockauto (for '67 Chevy pickup if I recall, was the first year for dual master??) I bought a 3 inch hole saw to cut a new access for filling the master because the POL bracket does shift it backwards a ways. Bought a second rubber floor plug for the second master hole. POL bracket was a nice piece of kit, included push rod and all bolts, everything fit nice. Will see if I can find and post a few pictures this evening.

Thanks , Skooter!