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Re: New welder rig [Re: Fitzy440] #1304711 Tue Mar 26 2019 03:30 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 19,026
H
Hotrod Lincoln Online
Boltergeist
I've got an accessory for my air hammer that puts a stepped-down flange on the edge of a hole. This allows a flush patch to overlap the hole and provides a much stronger method of installing it than a simple butt weld.
Jerry


The murder victim was drowned in a bathtub full of Rice Krispies and milk.
The coroner blamed the crime on a cereal killer!

Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
Re: New welder rig [Re: Fitzy440] #1304743 Tue Mar 26 2019 06:31 PM
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,074
J
Jon G Offline
Shop Shark
The only welder I have is an oxy-acetylene rig, and two weeks ago I needed to rent an arc welder. The place I normally go had rented all their units so I decided to rent one of the Lincoln wire-feed units Home Depot has out of curiosity (.030 or .035 size internal flux wire). Once I got the feel for it and got the feed rate and amperage balanced, the thing did a surprisingly good job...particularly for a 120 volt unit. Good penetration. I used a multi-pass approach One piece was 3/16 inch and the other was a bit thicker than 5/16 inch.


Jon

1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235
T5 with 3.07 rear end
Re: New welder rig [Re: Fitzy440] #1304941 Thu Mar 28 2019 12:11 AM
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 370
A
Apache1 Offline
Shop Shark
Don't like flux core wire...its a dirty easy way out weld. Solid wire .023 with Argon only way to go if you want to own it.


1959 Apache 3100 Fleetside SWB (Shop Truck) (modified)




Re: New welder rig [Re: Fitzy440] #1304957 Thu Mar 28 2019 01:02 AM
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 124
F
Fitzy440 Offline OP
Shop Shark
Thank you for the advice Fox! Want to have a sleep over and help me sandblast the doors and cab? wink
HR Lincoln, I have two pair of vice grips that make similar flanges. Its just VERY slow.
I could argue that Apache1. I prefer 75/25 with solid core wire. I save the pure argon for TIG.

Re: New welder rig [Re: Fitzy440] #1305112 Fri Mar 29 2019 03:47 AM
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,509
F
Fox Offline
Shop Shark
Jerry,
Do you have a picture of that air hammer flanger accessory?

Thanks Fitzy, but my wife says I’m not allowed to sleep in the shop anymore. 😀

Last edited by Fox; Fri Mar 29 2019 03:48 AM.

In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pictures here

1951 GMC 9430 1 ton dually—-Shiny!

1970 Chevrolet C10 - Grandpa’s- My first truck.—in progress to shiny
1972 Chevrolet C20- rusted
1970 Chevrolet K20 Suburban—rusted.
1950 Chevrolet 1300- in progress to shiny.

Parts trucks-
1951 GMC 9300
1951-GMC 9430
1951- Chevrolet 1300
Re: New welder rig [Re: Fitzy440] #1305245 Sat Mar 30 2019 03:53 AM
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 124
F
Fitzy440 Offline OP
Shop Shark
Fox, I thought if you didn't finish the "honey do list"; you were ONLY allowed to sleep in the shop?

Re: New welder rig [Re: Fitzy440] #1324636 Tue Sep 03 2019 09:05 AM
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 116
D
Detroit Iron Offline
Shop Shark
That "stepping" attachment is definitely a nice accessory Jerry! But I find that I can accomplish pretty close to the same results burning more wire (a wash). A bit of cleanup with the angle grinder, and I cant even see where I started, or ended. smile I'm also not one for cutting the rust out, I just turn up the heat, and burn wire until bead starts forming. Burning all that iron oxide looks like a sparkler on the 4th of July. smile

Chris


'64 Chev C20 LWB stepside ( Ol'Blue )
[img]http://boltbucket.org/img/OlBlue-C20-badge-64x64.jpg[/img]
Re: New welder rig [Re: Fitzy440] #1324829 Wed Sep 04 2019 01:27 PM
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 251
P
Phak1 Offline
Shop Shark
You can buy that flanging tool attachment that Jerry is talking about from Amazon. When I learned to replace panels in trade school back in the sixties, the school had one of those flangers. Back then MIG or TIG was not in the picture so we would braze the joint using an oxy-acetylene torch. This would fill the joint so it didn’t create an crevice on the backside for rust to start. My teacher showed us the you could tap down a standard lap joint flush while it was still red hot and accomplish the same result with a bit of practice. That put allot of heat into the panel so you would use a rag soaked in water to cool as we progressed.

There was a recent post from Jon G that used the flanging tool but used a special type of low temperature solder to fill the joint. This sounds interesting as you would wouldn’t need nearly as much heat.

https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...mig-welding-sheet-metal.html#Post1323272

https://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-916...r&qid=1567597254&s=hi&sr=1-4


Phil

1952 Chevrolet 3100 w/‘59 235 & hydraulic lifters
“Three on the Tree” & 4:11 torque tube
12v w/ Alternator
Re: New welder rig [Re: Fitzy440] #1324974 Thu Sep 05 2019 07:16 PM
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 116
D
Detroit Iron Offline
Shop Shark
The only thing I don't like about the flanger (on body panels) is that is that you can't really seal it very well. Sure, some lead (now largely zinc) in the outside seam is easy enough. But often, the inside seam will be inaccessible, and as a result, a water catcher. For example, on my rig. All the panels I need to replace were the spots Chevy (notoriously) left without proper drainage, or were places that collected dirt, which unless frequently cleaned, acted like a sponge. Causing the area to rust out. I can easily "butt weld" (patch) panels in, and for the door(s) drill a couple holes in the bottom for drainage, and be done with it. If I used a flanger, I'd need to wind the window all the way up, remove the inside door panel, in order to seal up the flanged area with undercoating, or maybe roof mastic. It'd probably work alright. But I'm not so sure it'd be as effectively sealed as hosing a butt weld with paint, or undercoating. That's my take on it. However right, or wrong. smile

Chris


'64 Chev C20 LWB stepside ( Ol'Blue )
[img]http://boltbucket.org/img/OlBlue-C20-badge-64x64.jpg[/img]
Re: New welder rig [Re: Fitzy440] #1324987 Thu Sep 05 2019 09:09 PM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 9,134
G
Grigg Offline
.
I worked at a well respected car restoration shop and we always replaced rusty metal as if it was new again, but welding mostly and flanges and spot or plug welds only where original flanges or lapped seams existed.


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
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