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Re: Rear backing plate question for 1948 GMC 3/4 ton
RyanC #1320014 Thu Aug 01 2019 04:10 AM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 9,176
G
.
A bushing to adapt hub pilot to drum center bore. Or machine one or the other if there is negative clearance. Preferably modify hub so future drums are off the shelf.


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Re: Rear backing plate question for 1948 GMC 3/4 ton
RyanC #1320044 Thu Aug 01 2019 02:21 PM
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 50
R
RyanC Offline OP
'Bolter
The difference between the 2 is .150, being that the drum I need will be .150 larger, so I will need some kind of a ring to make up this difference so my pilot is correct.

Re: Rear backing plate question for 1948 GMC 3/4 ton
RyanC #1320073 Thu Aug 01 2019 06:28 PM
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,124
'Bolter
I may be wrong here but I don't think the center opening of the drum is actually used for centering. I think the drum centers on the studs. Keep us updated because maybe you will discover a way forward for a lot others.


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Re: Rear backing plate question for 1948 GMC 3/4 ton
RyanC #1320081 Thu Aug 01 2019 07:34 PM
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 50
R
RyanC Offline OP
'Bolter
It depends on the drum, some are hub centric, others may center on the studs, the original drum kind of uses both, but there are 2 counter sunk screws that retain the drum to the hub as well. Once you properly torque the wheel down to as long as the drum in centered that drum can't move even with two 1/4" screws holding the drum in place. I'm going to look and see if the screw holes go all the way through, if that is the case I can transfer punch, or center punch those 2 holes on the drum as long as it is centered. I will find a solution to this problem, and I will post my findings here as I'm finding this topic has not been covered well.

Re: Rear backing plate question for 1948 GMC 3/4 ton
RyanC #1322702 Tue Aug 20 2019 03:55 PM
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 50
R
RyanC Offline OP
'Bolter
I just wanted to follow up with this thread and let everyone know that I did come up with a solution to this problem without major modifications. To go from the 12" x 2" Huck style brake to a 12" x 2" style Bendix style brake you will first need a set of backing plates from a 53 Chev or GMC or newer with the 12 x 2 brakes on it. Make sure you get all the hardware with them, I am still trying to locate the struts and levers for both sides for the E-Brake. If you choose to replace the wheel cylinders, shoes and spring hardware you will need the following numbers: Wheel cylinders (WC18009), Spring Kit (H7139), strut springs, (H1338-2). You can look up the shoes for this model, but I am thinking the shoes that pair with the replacement drums would have worked better. The drums you will use for this conversion because they are shallower are for a 57 to 60 Ford F-250 Centric number 12365041 (123.65041). In the future I would probably look at the matching shoes to these drums as well, I believe they are a number 33 shoe. I didn't like the way the drum sat above the dust groove on the backing plate so I spaced the backing plate forward about 1/8 of an inch. This can be done with some machine bushings (small outside diameter washers). These should be available at a hardware store, you will need 16 of them, 2 on each bolt behind the backing plate to bring it forward. As far as centering the drums because the Ford drums have a larger pilot and stud holes the smaller tapered screw holes do line up to center with the ones in the hub. I did counter sink the smaller holes that line up some just so the screws would fit more flush. I would look at maybe replacing a couple of the wheel studs with a longer shoulder because those are closer to 9/16. The stock studs are a Dorman number 610-074, however there is one with a 15/16 should with a .560 knurl diameter, Dorman number: 610-073. This may also help with centering. If anyone needs clarification let me know, hopefully this information is useful to someone.

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