The 1948 Chevy one ton dump bed I am reviving has a GarWood PTO that leaks profusely at the actuator shaft. Ready to remove and take apart, but anybody know a provider for the O ring or seal that needs to be replaced? Nice working unit, just leaks a bunch. Looks like GarWood was sold in 1948 after making lots of GM dump truck mechs. Any idea who bought them and may have parts. Earlier threads this topic helpful, but no source indicated.
remove the seal with care and see what numbers may be on it. If any then it can very likely be matched to a new one at your regular auto parts store (like NAPA) or a bearing supply house. Alternatively you can likely do the same with dimensions from the old seal and or where it lives in the PTO.
If as you say it's an old and forgotten manufacturer then you're probably better off with existing numbers or dimensions any how.
Lots of them on the Internationals as well. Might check with some of those forums, too. I got some seals at Western States hydraulic repair in Medford Oregon for one that was on an International, but it may not be the same model. That truck is long gone. 541 770 1374
Garwood was a leader in hydraulic ram and hoists back in the 1930-40's. They got bought out by various companies. If you can get the shaft diameter and the housing OD, you should be able to source a replacement seal. Here is a great place to start: https://www.timken.com/pdf/7707_National%20Indust%20Seals%20Catalog.pdf Odds are you can find someone selling the seal on ebay for pennies on the dollar. Let us know how it works out for you.
Still working on it, the actuator? shaft going into the PTO housing is easy to remove with just a cotter key holding the shaft on it's connecting handle. The other shaft; the drive shaft, not so easy, connected with two universals and a driveline to the lift gearbox back at the hydraulics. I am assuming I can remove the connecting universal connected to the shaft at the PTO by somehow pushing the driveline back to and inside the the rear universal temporarily so I can remove the PTO, which would then then be free of both shafts that go inside the PTO. So, still working on it - will let you know if this all works so I can get that shriveled O ring out and find a replacement thanks to your help. Would be nice if I could just remove that O ring without removing the PTO first, but it has a metal retainer housing and I am reluctant to just try to pry out around the shaft and maybe do damage to the housing or the retainer. Not sure its any better going at it from inside the PTO inside, but that seems a safer, if much more laborious solution?
I have a dump body mounted on my 70 C 30, which I believe is much older than the truck....The only identification I can find is on the cast iron hinge in the rear that says "WOOD" - no mention of "GAR" Does anyone have any info on this body? - I'm guessing that WOOD was a MFG that merged with GAR, creating GAR-WOOD???....but its just a guess.....
I am not certain of the pedigree of your PTO driveline as many things can happen to old trucks over the years. On the old original systems I am familiar with, the output shaft u-joint yoke is attached to the output shaft but a 5/16 or 3/8 inch diameter set screw. Loosen the set screw and carefully slide/pry the yoke away from the PTO. The driveline should have a slip joint in it (typically near the center bearing) allowing for some movement aiding in disassembly.
I know the set screw you are describing Paul, and I have loosened that, and then tried to maneuver the U yoke back and away from the output shaft, but so far with no success. It has probably been there a long time and may take more than twist wiggle and pull to loosen it enough to get the yoke backed away. I have stopped short of tapping on it, just because it is still attached to the other end which goes into the hydraulic drive. Will just keep trying and try not to screw anything up.It sounds like you are describing exactly what I am seeing. Is the slip joint the other set of universals with a square bar shaft just aft of that center bearing? I did loosen the set screw on that universal also, but still can't get the front u yoke to move back that way. Seems like that drive line is pretty tightly bonded in those u yokes.The center bearing moves nicely. This does appear to be all original but you are right, who ever knows for sure unless you bought it new. Thanks for your help Paul, any suggestions on how to break the bond without messing anything up would be great, but in the meantime I will just keep trying.
Yes the slip joint is sometimes a square shaft. There may be decades of old hardened grease and or rust preventing the slip joint to move. Try to clean up that section and apply a liberal amount of penetrant. The woodruff key on the shaft at the yoke may also binding. Gentle tapping on the yoke end at the PTO is fine. Try using a drift so that the hits are clean and precise, tapping in a direction away from the PTO. Tap one side, rotate the driveshaft 180 degrees and tap that side and repeat as necessary. Use care as you don't want to break any difficult to source parts. No need to loose patience and go Neanderthal. Good luck!
This is where I am, driveline and actuator arm to the PTO disconnected. Is it better to remove and replace the O rings from here without removing the PTO from the transmission? Is that possible or is it necessary to remove/replace the O rings from inside the PTO by removing the PTO from the transmission. Has anyone ever done this that can help with this question.
Last edited by cameo1956; Thu Aug 29 2019 11:47 PM. Reason: Update to current