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2 speed rear axle controls
#1322045 Fri Aug 16 2019 02:49 AM
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 36
S
Wrench Fetcher
I have a 1972 Chevy C50. 350/4speed/2 speed. The cable that runs from the transmission shifter to the Bendix vacuum control valve for the rear axle, has separated at the vacuum control valve. The cable has a brass threaded end on the cable where it enters the Bendix vacuum control valve. The cable housing WAS secured inside this brass fitting. This seems to be a common problem, the spare cable I have is broken also. While I can fabricobble a repair, I would like to find a source for a replacement. I emailed Bendix but haven't receive a response. Anyone have any info on a source this cable?

Re: 2 speed rear axle controls
Shacklett #1322046 Fri Aug 16 2019 02:57 AM
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 3,807
E
Shop Shark
Your ratios are probably low and lower, so, if you cannot get your cable, shift it with your hand into the high range and that should work for a while.

Ed


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
Re: 2 speed rear axle controls
Shacklett #1322075 Fri Aug 16 2019 01:10 PM
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 377
S
Shop Shark
Wire Rope People who sell Wire rope can help with this. I don't know what it's called just look around. I doubt you'll find a brass one but ma by Stainless


Julian Carter

1970 Triumph GT6
1967 Triumph TR4A
1952 Chevy 3600
1948 MG-TC
Re: 2 speed rear axle controls
Shacklett #1323816 Wed Aug 28 2019 03:34 AM
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 36
S
Wrench Fetcher
I had a spare shifter switch that had the same issue. The shifter cable housing had broken off where it entered the switch housing. The cable housing has a larger diameter rubber sleeve on it where it enters the switch housing. I found a way to repair it with no new parts.
1. Remove the switch, the switch is attached to a frame rail with a flat metal bracket directly below the front of the drivers' seat. I labeled each hose as I removed them and labeled which port each hose connects to.
2. 2 bolts attach the bracket to the frame rail, the bracket and switch come off as a unit, then the switch can be removed from the bracket (2 bolts.)
3. Disconnect the wire shifter cable from the switch by loosening the small screw in the spring loaded arm inside the switch.
4. Remove the small brass threaded fitting where the shifter cable enters the switch. Remove the shift cable with the brass fitting by pulling gently, it should come right out if the fitting is removed and the screw is loose.
5. The small brass fitting is similar to a compression fitting, carefully remove the cable and cable housing from the brass fitting. The cable housing has a larger diameter rubber sleeve on it where it enters the brass fitting.
6. It may be necessary to dig out a small portion of the cable housing from the brass fitting,, then trim the larger diameter rubber sleeve enough to allow the cable housing to enter the brass fitting. I totally removed the rubber sleeve.
7. Pull the wire cable back into the housing 2 or 3", and trim off any damaged portion of the cable housing. Do not remove any more than absolutely necessary. Push the wire cable back into the cable housing, the button on the shifter should be all the way down.
8. Measure the outside diameter of the cable housing, then measure the inside diameter of the brass fitting, it will be a few thousandth of an inch smaller. Using the correct size drill, drill the hole in the brass fitting to remove any compression or crimp.
9.The cable housing can now be inserted in the brass fitting and the fitting can be screwed in finger tight. The spring loaded lever in the switch should be positioned as far away from the point where the cable enters the switch as possible. Mark the wire cable where it enters the spring loaded lever and the wire cable needs to be completely under the set screw. Remove the cable and housing and cut off the wire cable on your mark. I used a sharp cold chisel to cut the cable, it is tough wire!
10. Re-insert the cable and housing, making sure the cable housing is fully seated and the fitting is tightened enough to hold the cable housing in place, I put three layers of shrink wrap on the housing and fitting to keep out moisture. The wire must be inserted in the spring loaded lever in the switch BEFORE tightening the brass fitting.
11. Check for function, adjust if necessary. I put a piece of gasket paper between the switch and bracket to keep any moisture out of the switch.

This took longer to type than it did to do. Anyone with a little patience can do this. Good luck!


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Moderated by  69Cuda, Grigg 

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