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"Patricks' Tech Tip Article #1318280 Thu Jul 18 2019 06:49 PM
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 97
P
posey Offline OP
Shop Shark
So I found a tech tip article on the site describing some details of a 3.55 ring and pinion conversion called, Installing Patricks Rear End.
Wanted to see if I could get a copy of these instructions that came with this install kit.

This Patrick site is gone, anyone have these instructions or are they not worth it?

Thanks

Re: "Patricks' Tech Tip Article [Re: posey] #1318283 Thu Jul 18 2019 07:05 PM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 28,593
tclederman Offline
Boltergeist


Tim
1954Advance-Design.com
1954 3106 Carryall Suburban - part of the family for 48 years
1954 3104 5-window pickup w/Hydra-Matic - part of the family for 14 years
Z-series (54/55) GMC 350 (2-ton) COE - now part of Dave's family
- If you have to stomp on your foot-pedal starter, either you, or your starter, or your engine, has a problem.
- The 216 and early 235 engine are not "splash oilers" - this is a splash oiler.
Re: "Patricks' Tech Tip Article [Re: posey] #1318287 Thu Jul 18 2019 07:34 PM
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 97
P
posey Offline OP
Shop Shark
Thanks, Much appreciated.

Re: "Patricks' Tech Tip Article [Re: posey] #1318289 Thu Jul 18 2019 07:39 PM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 28,593
tclederman Offline
Boltergeist
Here is another set of 3.55 web instructions/pictures.

Someone might know a link to Patrick's 3.55 conversion instructions sheets. They were hard to read, but they would be another installation resource.


Tim
1954Advance-Design.com
1954 3106 Carryall Suburban - part of the family for 48 years
1954 3104 5-window pickup w/Hydra-Matic - part of the family for 14 years
Z-series (54/55) GMC 350 (2-ton) COE - now part of Dave's family
- If you have to stomp on your foot-pedal starter, either you, or your starter, or your engine, has a problem.
- The 216 and early 235 engine are not "splash oilers" - this is a splash oiler.
Re: "Patricks' Tech Tip Article [Re: posey] #1318303 Thu Jul 18 2019 09:37 PM
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 261
M
Mother.Trucker Offline
Shop Shark
Originally Posted by tclederman
Here is another set of 3.55 web instructions/pictures.

Someone might know a link to Patrick's 3.55 conversion instructions sheets. They were hard to read, but they would be another installation resource.






When Deve was writing up his installation article he contacted Pat for permission to post his original installation literature in the article.

Pat denied him permission to use it.

I have a copy of Pat's original 9 page instruction literature but, it is a copy of a copy & the pictures are a little grainy.

I am not sure if it can be posted here in it's entirety without legal problems from Pat.

Maybe Deve can chime in here if he sees this.


.

Attached Files
Img_6559.jpg (121.22 KB, 283 downloads)
Re: "Patricks' Tech Tip Article [Re: posey] #1318312 Thu Jul 18 2019 11:07 PM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 6,264
B
bartamos Offline
Master Gabster
This is my opinion you didn't ask for but I offer it as that only.
Posey, you are probably good at mechanical. So am I. I have only rebuilt dana 44 differentials. This all sounds like a bad idea to me. Ancient technology. Parts unavailable? Making shims and removing welded pins? Making tools. High costs?
Hopefully you are not a purist. This is the time to get rid of closed drive shaft and it's differential. Get a good ratio, more modern diff, with cheaper, available parts. Could be WAY less work if you find a good donor. Could be WAY less money. Could be WAY farther ahead.

Disclaimer:
I do not know the ins and outs of AD diffs. Deve's explanation sounds WAY WAY more complicated than Sweets. Maybe there are different methods for different years. If so, you need to state what year you are talking about. You should always state year and model in every new post.
I always recommend to go 12V, alternator and open drive. Does not affect overall original feel/looks of truck. So silly to keep going with bad/unsupported designs for no reason.

If you decide on doing it yourself anyway, sounds like you will have some great guys to help in case of trouble. I.E Sweet, Dave as mentioned by Deve, the FredStev tip and Tim's untiring effort to supply info and links......... and I'm sure many others. I see it a different way, that's all.


I'm away on an ego trip. Will be back on Feb 30.
I'm not an Auto Mechanic, but I play one on TV.
I charge $0.02 for every opinion and I take Paypal.


Re: "Patricks' Tech Tip Article [Re: posey] #1318320 Fri Jul 19 2019 12:58 AM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 28,593
tclederman Offline
Boltergeist
Deve seems to often get involved in some details (and philosophical musings) and sometimes makes things seem to be more difficult.

His write-ups are still helpful and very useful.

Sweet's write-up allow you to git-er-done.

I did two A-D 3.55 conversions using Patrick's hard-to-read instructions (one about 15 years ago, I think).
I had a friend/pro with me (who had never worked on a torque-tube).
We had the Shop Manual open/available at all steps.
We had Patrick's terse and hard-to rear installation instructions.
I bought the necessary parts kits, and, indicators/gauges from and Harbor Freight.
I bought a parts kit from Classic Parts (or others, do this).
Spend the money.

My 1954 Suburban is now much quieter, smoother, and more pleasant to drive (cruises easily at 65 mph - last month a 7-8 hour trip each-way to Macungie PA, averaging 60+ mph).

bartamos offers good advice, but I do not understand:
"Parts unavailable?
Making shims, and,
removing welded pins?
Making tools.
High costs?"

All the parts I needed were in the parts kit.

All shims I needed were in the parts kit.

I do not remember removing welded pins (where are they - where were they? On the bearing that needs to be moved/removed for the Oakie bushing/bearing?

We did not have to make any tools, but we used same long plumbing pipes to punch out seals and old old bushings.

I do not know how the costs compare to whatever alternative rear-end/gears-ratios others might install.

I do know that I now have a smooth, quiet, higher-speed, set-up that can be easily maintained for many years/miles.

If there is a reasonable alternative - what is the outcome/result, and, what are the total costs?


Tim
1954Advance-Design.com
1954 3106 Carryall Suburban - part of the family for 48 years
1954 3104 5-window pickup w/Hydra-Matic - part of the family for 14 years
Z-series (54/55) GMC 350 (2-ton) COE - now part of Dave's family
- If you have to stomp on your foot-pedal starter, either you, or your starter, or your engine, has a problem.
- The 216 and early 235 engine are not "splash oilers" - this is a splash oiler.
Re: "Patricks' Tech Tip Article [Re: posey] #1318327 Fri Jul 19 2019 01:50 AM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 6,264
B
bartamos Offline
Master Gabster
"Parts unavailable?
Making shims, and,
removing welded pins?
Making tools.
High costs?"

Got that from quickly reading Deve's site. See if you agree with my understanding of his words.
It will be great info to watch what doing that job in 2019 will provide re: parts availability, pricing and level of effort.
I do agree that Sweets sounds like a weekend job. Your experience is the same.
Does not change my thoughts about going open. I do stand overruled on this.


I'm away on an ego trip. Will be back on Feb 30.
I'm not an Auto Mechanic, but I play one on TV.
I charge $0.02 for every opinion and I take Paypal.


Re: "Patricks' Tech Tip Article [Re: posey] #1318338 Fri Jul 19 2019 02:48 AM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 28,593
tclederman Offline
Boltergeist
I do not know what the cost would be, doing it as Deve describes.

I do know how to easily do it as Sweet describes:
- buy the gears
- buy the parts kit
- buy the cheap gauges

I'll price it out for you, after you price out the TOTAL cost of any other rear-end swap/conversion.
I priced it out long ago here (good luck searching for it). Those prices are no good now.
Also, pricing-in the shipping cost for many sources for parts, will make the cost of a parts-kits look real good?

The only advantage I can guess for changing to open-driveline conversion might be a final drive ratio lower than 3.55?


Tim
1954Advance-Design.com
1954 3106 Carryall Suburban - part of the family for 48 years
1954 3104 5-window pickup w/Hydra-Matic - part of the family for 14 years
Z-series (54/55) GMC 350 (2-ton) COE - now part of Dave's family
- If you have to stomp on your foot-pedal starter, either you, or your starter, or your engine, has a problem.
- The 216 and early 235 engine are not "splash oilers" - this is a splash oiler.
Re: "Patricks' Tech Tip Article [Re: bartamos] #1318347 Fri Jul 19 2019 03:52 AM
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 261
M
Mother.Trucker Offline
Shop Shark
Originally Posted by bartamos
This is the time to get rid of closed drive shaft and it's differential. Get a good ratio, more modern diff, with cheaper, available parts. Could be WAY less work if you find a good donor. Could be WAY less money. Could be WAY farther ahead.



Switching out the rear end for a modern one sounds like good advice until things start to snowball & you run into more unexpected costs.



Pay for a donor rear end & then more than likely have to rebuild the brakes on it.

Will the new brakes be compatible with your existing brake system ?
{Example : Huck brakes on the front axle & Bendix brakes on the rear axle are a recipe for disaster}.

Then you will have to index your new axle in relation to the driveline & fabricate new mounts & weld those on.

Your existing transmission has a closed U joint set up which is not compatible with the new open U joint rear end.

You will now have to remove your original transmission & locate a new open driveshaft transmission & install that.

Next you will need to have a shop make you a driveshaft & balance it.

Then you will need to figure out a way to adapt your existing parking brake cables to the new rear end.

Most of the newer rear axles with better gearing are 5 lug.

Looks like you now will need to go to 5 lug rims, so you will need to locate 4 new rims & switch out the front brake drums to 5 lug.

After you have done all of this...you now have a used rear end that might last 20 years or it might last 20 miles
{ unless you have gone through the expense of rebuilding it before you installed it }.



As you can see....
The most economical & least intrusive way to change the gearing in your truck is to do so with your existing torque tube axle.
That is why the 3.55 gear conversion is so popular.




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