The Stovebolt Page Forums Home | FAQ | Forum | Swap Meet | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Work those trucks!




Share what you're up to this summer!

Stovebolt Site Search
 
Old Truck Calendars
Months of truck photos!
Nothing like an old truck calendar

Stovebolt Calendars

Check for details!


Who's Online Now
19 registered members (bowtietim, DonA, chuck white, 55 SHAKER, 3 invisible), 403 guests, and 4 spiders.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums48
Topics116,442
Posts926,218
Members42,439
Most Online940
Apr 5th, 2017
Image Posting Policy
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2
1966 chevy c10 L6 250 swap for a 66 283 #1317447 Fri Jul 12 2019 02:54 AM
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 3
F
Filobeto66 Offline OP
New Guy
I have a 1966 chevy C10 with the L6 250 3 speed manual, I purchased a 1966 V8 283 out of 66 chevelle. and would like to install the 283. before I start removing the 250 I would like to know what all I will need to purchase to make it work. will the fly wheel, clutch assembly and starter work from the 250? will the motor mounts be the same? will the throttle linkage need to be changed. the 283 came with the original carb. with a vac choke the 250 has a manual choke is the vac choke ok or should I convert it to a manual? any info would help, thanks

Re: 1966 chevy c10 L6 250 swap for a 66 283 [Re: Filobeto66] #1317474 Fri Jul 12 2019 11:38 AM
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,311
Hambone Offline
Shop Shark
Welcome to the sight. I will let the experts tell you it’s pretty easy swap. Don’t throw the old stuff away. Some of us may need it some day.


HB

1966 Chevrolet K-10
Flappy Fenders
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pictures on Photobucket

1962 Chevrolet C10
Re: 1966 chevy c10 L6 250 swap for a 66 283 [Re: Filobeto66] #1317550 Sat Jul 13 2019 01:52 AM
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 50
J
jmlloar Offline
Wrench Fetcher
only thing you will need is V8 mounts. Clutch, bell, starter and everything else will bolt to V8 from your L6. Replace clutch pressure plate and throw out bearing while its apart. Put a new pilot bushing in V8 crank.

Of course you will need new exhaust. and center dump manifold if car manifolds arent already. Sorry cant remember if that year chevelle was center or rear dump.

Definitely use a fan shroud. V8 overheats to easily without one.

Done this swap MANY times.

Vac choke works ok if working properly. Its also very easy to swap it out with choke conversion kit to make it manual.

Pretty sure I haven't forgot anything but if I have someone else will surely chime in.

Last edited by jmlloar; Sat Jul 13 2019 01:55 AM.

1955 GMC 150, 1980 Chevy K10, 2011 Sierra 3500 HD SLT Duramax Dually Crewcab
Re: 1966 chevy c10 L6 250 swap for a 66 283 [Re: Filobeto66] #1317615 Sat Jul 13 2019 10:19 PM
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 3
F
Filobeto66 Offline OP
New Guy
Thank You jmlloar the manifolds are ram horns left one dumps out the middle and angles back. right one dumps out the middle straight down with the rusted out heat spring butterfly. not sure if I can get a new butterfly or if it is even needed.

Re: 1966 chevy c10 L6 250 swap for a 66 283 [Re: Filobeto66] #1317654 Sun Jul 14 2019 01:05 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 19,025
H
Hotrod Lincoln Online
Boltergeist
If you're willing to spend 20-30 minutes of warmup time on every cold start before driving, eliminate the heat riser. Otherwise, buy a new one and do it the way the factory intended. That unit is a bolt-on part that's just downstream of the passenger's side manifold, not integral with it. It's supposed to route some exhaust gas through the cylinder head passages and the intake manifold to warm up the carburetor, then open the valve with a thermostatic spring once the engine is warmed up. That's a lot of engineering and manufacturing expense for a part some people throw away. I guess they believe they're smarter than the guys who designed the engine!
Jerry


The murder victim was drowned in a bathtub full of Rice Krispies and milk.
The coroner blamed the crime on a cereal killer!

Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
Re: 1966 chevy c10 L6 250 swap for a 66 283 [Re: Filobeto66] #1317668 Sun Jul 14 2019 03:47 PM
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 50
J
jmlloar Offline
Wrench Fetcher
the heat riser is needed if you keep the automatic choke.
if you go manual choke its not.

either of those manifolds should work if your doing custom exhaust.
pretty sure the "correct" one is the straight down exit.
and the only important thing on that is if you have head mounted alt or manifold mounted one. if you have manifold mounted one you need manifold with the brack mount cast on it.


1955 GMC 150, 1980 Chevy K10, 2011 Sierra 3500 HD SLT Duramax Dually Crewcab
Re: 1966 chevy c10 L6 250 swap for a 66 283 [Re: Hotrod Lincoln] #1317670 Sun Jul 14 2019 03:53 PM
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 50
J
jmlloar Offline
Wrench Fetcher
Originally Posted by Hotrod Lincoln
If you're willing to spend 20-30 minutes of warmup time on every cold start before driving, eliminate the heat riser. Otherwise, buy a new one and do it the way the factory intended. That unit is a bolt-on part that's just downstream of the passenger's side manifold, not integral with it. It's supposed to route some exhaust gas through the cylinder head passages and the intake manifold to warm up the carburetor, then open the valve with a thermostatic spring once the engine is warmed up. That's a lot of engineering and manufacturing expense for a part some people throw away. I guess they believe they're smarter than the guys who designed the engine!
Jerry

The heat riser has its pros and cons.
pro is faster warm up
con is hotter intake manifold after warm up.

You have to remember the factory went with a middle approach to make things work ok for most conditions, not a works good for conditions for your use.
If your not doing a lot of winter driving it is not necessary to have the heat riser. I usually fill in the passage in the intake. its along the lines of adding an insulator under carb.


1955 GMC 150, 1980 Chevy K10, 2011 Sierra 3500 HD SLT Duramax Dually Crewcab
Re: 1966 chevy c10 L6 250 swap for a 66 283 [Re: Filobeto66] #1317675 Sun Jul 14 2019 04:40 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 19,025
H
Hotrod Lincoln Online
Boltergeist
What do you fill the manifold with? I've poured the entire intake manifold passage full of molten aluminum- - - -and the next time we opened up the engine, it was gone.
Jerry


The murder victim was drowned in a bathtub full of Rice Krispies and milk.
The coroner blamed the crime on a cereal killer!

Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
Re: 1966 chevy c10 L6 250 swap for a 66 283 [Re: Hotrod Lincoln] #1317700 Sun Jul 14 2019 08:13 PM
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 50
J
jmlloar Offline
Wrench Fetcher
JB Weld works ok
All I ever used was crushed up aluminum foil packed in on both side tight as I could with hammer and a blunt drift. Never had any problems with it.

You can reduce the chance of it blowing out by putting a piece of sheet metal cut to fit in the hole of the intake gasket to make a block off plate and use some high temp silicone to hold it until you tighten the intake down. make sure it doesn't interfer with gasket fully seating into place.

Your aluminum shouldn't come out unless you have more pressure on one side than the other. So remove the flap inside of your heat valve on the exhaust manifold.

Last edited by jmlloar; Sun Jul 14 2019 08:14 PM.

1955 GMC 150, 1980 Chevy K10, 2011 Sierra 3500 HD SLT Duramax Dually Crewcab
Re: 1966 chevy c10 L6 250 swap for a 66 283 [Re: Filobeto66] #1317714 Sun Jul 14 2019 10:13 PM
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,256
T
Tommy Offline
Shop Shark
I seem to remember years ago, a fel pro intake manifold set came with two small pieces of sheet metal that you could use to block off the heat riser passages.


Tommy
59 apache 1/2t
261 short stepside
Page 1 of 2 1 2

Moderated by  Woogeroo 

Home | FAQ | Forum | Swap Meet | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.3