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Re: Wiring diagram/example
JD1 #1317026 Mon Jul 08 2019 09:47 PM
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 85
Awesome Grandpa
I ran the output from the Alternator to the + on the fuse panel on it's way to the ammeter. Also ran a ground from the battery to the - on the fuse panel.

Re: Wiring diagram/example
JD1 #1317030 Mon Jul 08 2019 10:37 PM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 7,869
Sir Searchalot
I believe your headlight switch has a fuse already, and a thermal overload.
When you do new automotive wiring, it best that everything is fused or a fusible link used. A fusible linked hot wire to the headlight switch. A fusible linked hot wire to the ignition switch. A fusible linked wire to that part of the fuse block which is always on. A wire from ignition "on" to that part of the fuse panel that you want switched.

Accessory position is the same as Ignition "on". Ignition "on" can be used with motor running or not.
I realize in your case, you have to add a fuse panel. You are doing the right thing. For updating/rewiring a truck in the future, always buy a prewired fuse panel style harness kit. The fuse panel should always be mounted inside cab. This advice is obviously not for the purist and their cloth wire kits.

You are correct, you do not want a fuse panel with separate ins and outs. You want one with two power inputs. Hot bank and switched bank. I'm talking updating older trucks, not hot rods with electronic, bluetooth, computers, etc.

I don't use ammeters, so all my fusible links come directly off the battery or possibly bounce off the horn relay.
A nice bright idiot bulb is easily seen when starting to verify bulb and is easily noticed if a problem arises. Which means I like "3 wire" alternators, 12V and ballast resistors.. A voltmeter will give you gauge feedback if you want that also. It's a simple install in series instead of every hot wire routed to an ammeter, which is used as a terminal block for hot. No good, no how, no reason.

On one truck I did, I bought a donor ATO fuse panel from a newer Chevy truck with all the wires cut. $15. I wanted to do a harness from scratch. I de-terminated all the wires from the panel. Bought wire of various colors. Bought crimp/solder terminals of various types. Bought Packard 56 connectors of various pin-outs, bulb sockets, sleeving and other stuff. I guess it was rewarding or a learning experience. But didn't save enough money to ever do it again.

Watch out for careful drivers!!!
I'm away on an ego trip. Will be back on Feb 30.
I'm not an Auto Mechanic, but I play one on TV.
I charge $0.02 for every opinion and I take Paypal.
Plan B is always better than plan A, by definition.
You can't teach a new dog old tricks.

Re: Wiring diagram/example
JD1 #1317039 Tue Jul 09 2019 12:35 AM
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 140
JD1 Offline OP
Shop Shark

I rebuilt a wiring harness on a muscle car a few years back, it sounds like your harness from scratch. I had to get those special connectors inside the block, what a pain in the butt.

I don't like ammeters either, but I'm going to stick with the stock gauges for now.

So you would recommend running two fusible links off the battery? One for the heater and one for the wipers?

1951 Chevy 3100 1/2 ton (1957 235, 4 speed, 411 rear)
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