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When they came out with the hypoid design, they also made s new lubricant for it. the gear design literally squeezes the lubricant out from between the teeth so that is the stuff you want to use.
I would guess it would take a while to find a paper gasket for your 1 1/2 ton rear cover. RTV made for auto use will give you a more modern complete seal that will never leak.
Yes the axle gaskets are aluminum. You won't find new pins and you may not find the pin locks. The springs would be a rare find too. The best idea is to be as careful as you can taking it apart and only replace what is broken. Most wheel cylinders can be rebuilt. Mine were pitted so I had them done by a professional shop who installed stainless sleeves.
For the rear brake cylinders, try NAPA UP 3677. I found them to be identical to the rear cylinders in my '37 SD.
The rear wheel seal is a SKF 31870. If you need new locking plate for the axle nuts, the part number GM 473629 is a current number and is available from GMPartsDirect.com
Jim
Last edited by neonman; Thu May 23 2019 06:47 PM.
1935 QD 1.5 ton stake bed 1937 SD 1.5 ton stake bed 1944 MS 1.5 ton stake bed 1946 PW 2 ton stake bed
Thank you very much for the additional parts information, one less from the list.. On the cylinders, Raybestos WC3677 is the same thing and cheaper w/Amazon for $40.59 each. As for the oil seals, National 6358 $6.58 each with them also. Don't pay $40.00 each per seal as I did. Will reserve my comments for the abusive pricing. I am learning at a very high cost here...
Thank you very much for the information and photos, will contact them tomorrow for pricing and check Ebay... I have also updated my list on top of this thread. In the meantime, I hope I can come up with the other part numbers...
Phillippe, Why are you looking for all the those parts? Do you not have any parts to start with? To rebuild worn out brakes you will re-use the vast majority of the parts. If you are lucky you may not even need new cylinders, just the rubber cups. Perhaps I don't understand your situation or what you are trying to do.
Regarding the lubricant, any multiviscosity hypoid gear oil will work, including several you listed above as "out".
Enlighten me as to what you are doing, Kent
Last edited by Lightholder's Dad; Fri May 24 2019 06:32 PM.
Maybe I am overreacting a little since I never have dealt with Huck brakes before and I am expecting that most everything is beyond being usable due to its age... I have 2 new cylinders and seals. I suppose it is reasonable that I could re-use the outer nut lock and just get new axle gaskets and be Ok. Be Ok with all the pins, locks and springs... Just run them through a wire wheel and paint them with red oxide primer and assemble with never seize... Am I over simplifying it now? That would be the best case scenario, and I am hoping for that... On the other hand, I was trying to do some homework and find the part numbers for most of the stuff that I imagine would wear out, rust, or be a problem over time...That's where I'm at. Tomorrow I will start the disassembly process and will know for sure in which direction to go. Do you have any suggestions to avoid any pitfalls?
When they came out with the hypoid design, they also made s new lubricant for it. the gear design literally squeezes the lubricant out from between the teeth so that is the stuff you want to use.
I would guess it would take a while to find a paper gasket for your 1 1/2 ton rear cover. RTV made for auto use will give you a more modern complete seal that will never leak.
Yes the axle gaskets are aluminum. You won't find new pins and you may not find the pin locks. The springs would be a rare find too. The best idea is to be as careful as you can taking it apart and only replace what is broken. Most wheel cylinders can be rebuilt. Mine were pitted so I had them done by a professional shop who installed stainless sleeves.
Hello there,
I understand that the Hypoid lubricant needed for the rear end is supposed to be mineral based...The only one that I have found that is Hypoid and (EP) is the Mobil XP 600. The others seem to be incompatible since they lack either one of the requirements... I Imagine it is acceptable to use RTV for the rear cover, but which specific brand or type really works? As for the axle gaskets, GM 2310537, anything found so far is made of a fibrous material similar to most modern gaskets...If you can share photos of originals it would be great...
Philippe, Unless your brakes and axles have been buried in mud for a long time, I think you will find the hardware will be remarkably well preserved. Study the manuals so you don't break something disassembling the items and then wire wheel or media blast to clean them up. Since you live in FL you may want to paint them but some uncoated primers actually attract moisture like a sponge so be careful. Clear coat with spray can lacquer works pretty well for the protected area you are working in.
I may be wrong but I think you are mistaken regarding lubricant. Original instructions for the transmission and differentials of the older trucks noted that mineral oil lubricant was required. This is not correct for hypoid differentials and any modern hypoid gear lubricant should work. I hope that someone will correct me if I am wrong.
I would use Permatex "Right Stuff" to seal the axle caps. I don't think the gaskets you linked are the correct ones. Don't you have 10 studs on your rear axles? The Right Stuff is a rubber compound that works great without oil seepage and no gasket is required. It is somewhat adhesive and holds up much better than RTV. The lock pins you linked are what you are looking for. You have to bend them slightly to remove them but if you are careful and the previous mechanic has not ruined them already you may not need new ones.
