Regrinding a cam reduces the diameter or the base circle and can create problems with pushrod length and the position of rocker arm adjusters, locknuts, etc. If a new cam is available, getting a used one reground doesn't make good nonsense. Back when almost all the flathead Ford V8 race cams were made on stock cores with some pretty radical regrinding involved, Johnson adjustable tappets were available in "overlength" dimensions to compensate for reduced base circle diameters. Jerry
The murder victim was drowned in a bathtub full of Rice Krispies and milk. The coroner blamed the crime on a cereal killer!
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
That’s not accurate at all with respect to an in-line early chevy 6. Yes, a regrind does reduce the heal of the cam a bit in order to get the new shape ground in, but no, it does not screw up the geometry on an early in-line 6, or even close to the extent you have described. Plenty of adjustment to compensate and the regrinds work just fine. How do I know this? Because I have used at least a dozen of them over the years in my 235 and 261 builds, including a couple that Chet Herbert reground for me. You might remember his ads in hot rod magazine that he would regrind any cam with any grind for 39.50. I still have the last cam he ground for me in 1985, the receipt for that cam, and it’s still in the motor I put it in. Stock rockers, stock pushrods, stock solid lifters. Never a moments trouble, and truth be told, it was a very good cam, sounded great and ran great and I was not all that gentle with that motor. So no, I don’t agree with that pronouncement at all. A regrind is an alternative.
I have a Delta Cams regrind in my 235, they know the 261 grinds, took my hydraulic lifter core and cut it to solid lifter 261 specs. Valve train seems very happy now, wasn't so happy with those cheesy hydraulic lifters from abroad before though.