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Transmission seal #1311184 Sun May 19 2019 08:09 PM
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 21
G
Gary P. Offline OP
New Guy
I had my '46 Chevy pickup on a lift not too long ago and decided to check the fluids. The transmission was near empty and the rear was overfilled. Yesterday I was at a local car show and a guy told me that the seal in the back of the transmission was bad and the gear oil had leaked into the torque tube driveshaft and gone into the rear.
Is this a repair that I could do myself? Would you pull the transmission?
Any suggestions would be helpful.
My next show is in a month and is 100 miles away in Sea Isle City, NJ.


1946 1/2 ton Chevy Pickup
1953 235 cu in
3 speed on the floor
Re: Transmission seal [Re: Gary P.] #1311199 Sun May 19 2019 10:52 PM
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 21
G
Gary P. Offline OP
New Guy
The transmission is likely an original. 3 Speed.


1946 1/2 ton Chevy Pickup
1953 235 cu in
3 speed on the floor
Re: Transmission seal [Re: Gary P.] #1311220 Mon May 20 2019 12:58 AM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 8,324
5
52Carl Offline
Master Gabster
The bad seal which is causing your problem is not in the transmission. The u-joint inside of the torque tube ball receives lubrication from the transmission, so there is no seal at the tail of the transmission. The bad seal is in the torque tube. It prevents the fluid from making its way to the rear end. You need an Okie bushing/seal kit and a special puller tool.
Carl

Re: Transmission seal [Re: Gary P.] #1311239 Mon May 20 2019 10:42 AM
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 21
G
Gary P. Offline OP
New Guy
Thanks. I am not familiar with this at all. I appreciate any knowledge I can get on this driveshaft and the problem that I have. I would like to learn as much about this as I can before taking stuff apart.


1946 1/2 ton Chevy Pickup
1953 235 cu in
3 speed on the floor
Re: Transmission seal [Re: Gary P.] #1311242 Mon May 20 2019 12:13 PM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 28,471
tclederman Offline
Boltergeist
Yes, Gary, educate yourself regarding Carl's helpful post.

The 1946 assemby.parts should be similar to the 1/2 parts up through 1950.

Here is an illustration of the parts.
I think Carl is referring to the seal and bushing, 4.469 & 5.451 (2 styles of pins/bushing)

5.469 Seal : 1941-1950

5.451 KITS (bushing and seal) : 1940-1959 (listing starts at bottom of previous page)

Someone will correct this, if necessary.

Keep asking questions.

Shop Manual links:
comment on car vs truck rear-end/differentials : similarities and differences
car vs truck propeller shaft similarities
propeller shaft and oil seal replacement



Tim
1954Advance-Design.com
1954 3106 Carryall Suburban - part of the family for 48 years
1954 3104 5-window pickup w/Hydra-Matic - part of the family for 14 years
Z-series (54/55) GMC 350 (2-ton) COE - now part of Dave's family
- If you have to stomp on your foot-pedal starter, either you, or your starter, or your engine, has a problem.
- The 216 and early 235 engine are not "splash oilers" - this is a splash oiler.
Re: Transmission seal [Re: Gary P.] #1311245 Mon May 20 2019 12:50 PM
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 159
D
drdoug Offline
Shop Shark
Gary, what Tim shows is good info for the OE pair of bushings and seal in the torque tube. The seal may fail due to age or due to wear of the bushings (which allows the driveshaft to wobble) or both.

There is an alternative fix, referred to as an Okie bushing (as mentioned by Carl), that was developed in the '40's which makes somewhat easier the bushing and seal replacement, without the need to remove the driveshaft. Several vendors carry them, such as this: Okie Bushing. Scroll down to the Instructions tab to get to the diagram and installation guidance. They also sell a tool that may be used to pull the forward OE bushing, although the tool has received very mixed reviews on the forum.

More important, there are 3 sizes of the Okie bushings being reproduced, AFAIK. Chev's of the 40's has the ODs listed. Make sure you get the correct one by the dimensions (there have been people in various forums who had issues after receiving the wrong size bushing assembly, or bad repro's made in India that were slightly off in dimension).

Here's a great post in the forum that shows better photos and diagrams: Okie Bushing Install. Search a bit and you will find more info.

The Okie Bushing is so called since it was developed and patented in '46 by National Machine Works of Oklahoma. Note you will frequently find it misspelled as Oakie Bushing (as Chev's of the 40's does). Just for fun, here's the original patent: 1946 Okie Bushing Patent # 2,403,520

So, you have your choice - the Okie Bushing, or replace with OE style bushings and seal. Good luck!

Attached Files
Okie Bushing.jpg (47.54 KB, 121 downloads)
Re: Transmission seal [Re: Gary P.] #1311253 Mon May 20 2019 01:33 PM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 28,471
tclederman Offline
Boltergeist
Gary (and, drdoug),

drdoug's fix is the better/easier way to repair that leak, unless you have to take your rear-end apart.

Some/Most people would suggest using the "Oakie Bushing" as a first choice for repair.

Hmmm, maybe someone might post comments on using the "Oakie Bushing", if an Oakie bushing was already used as an earlier repair? A repair was certainly needed since 1946, unless the truck was not driven much?


Tim
1954Advance-Design.com
1954 3106 Carryall Suburban - part of the family for 48 years
1954 3104 5-window pickup w/Hydra-Matic - part of the family for 14 years
Z-series (54/55) GMC 350 (2-ton) COE - now part of Dave's family
- If you have to stomp on your foot-pedal starter, either you, or your starter, or your engine, has a problem.
- The 216 and early 235 engine are not "splash oilers" - this is a splash oiler.
Re: Transmission seal [Re: Gary P.] #1311269 Mon May 20 2019 03:34 PM
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 21
G
Gary P. Offline OP
New Guy
Many thanks to all!
I will have to go through the installation of the Okie. Right now that is were I am leaning. The truck has had many owners and started life in Oklahome. I have never had to drop the drive shaft so I don't know if a repair has ever been done or not. I'll find out when I drop it I guess.
Besides the Okie and a gasket for the rear, what else should I order?
I just checked the transmission oil and is down a little bit since filling it about 50 miles or so.


1946 1/2 ton Chevy Pickup
1953 235 cu in
3 speed on the floor
Re: Transmission seal [Re: Gary P.] #1311283 Mon May 20 2019 06:24 PM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 28,471
tclederman Offline
Boltergeist
"Okie and a gasket for the rear"

What "gasket for the rear" are you referring to?

Here are some parts you might need (or, might want to replace), when installing an okie bushing:
[https://www.classicparts.com/1937-54-Transmission-U-Joint-Gasket-Set-3-Speed/productinfo/91-920/]u-joint ball gasket set[/url]

Check your u-joint - is should move, not "wiggle".


Tim
1954Advance-Design.com
1954 3106 Carryall Suburban - part of the family for 48 years
1954 3104 5-window pickup w/Hydra-Matic - part of the family for 14 years
Z-series (54/55) GMC 350 (2-ton) COE - now part of Dave's family
- If you have to stomp on your foot-pedal starter, either you, or your starter, or your engine, has a problem.
- The 216 and early 235 engine are not "splash oilers" - this is a splash oiler.
Re: Transmission seal [Re: tclederman] #1311301 Mon May 20 2019 09:01 PM
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 21
G
Gary P. Offline OP
New Guy
OK, I think that I have handle on this now, with all of your help. I misread Carl's post. I thought that this OKIE Bushing went at the rear of the torque tube. So, I just took a good look at what I have and I have attached a photo. I am assuming that this housing is what needs to come off.
Feeling kind of ignorant on all this.

Attached Files
20190520_163334.jpg (126.22 KB, 86 downloads)

1946 1/2 ton Chevy Pickup
1953 235 cu in
3 speed on the floor
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