We are still asking: What did you get done on your Bolt today ????
The question, initially posted May 23, 2005, was:
"Whatcha do on your Bolt this weekend?"
After 51,906,997 views, 7378 replies over 185 pages, this thread in General Truck Talk is a happening! And it's not just weekends anymore.
See attachment item description. Who else in the competing aftermarket besides Bill's Truck parts in Ontario, Canada carries this item? Cost 144.95 advertised...not sure if that is adjusted for currency exchange. The shipping cost would be astronomical due to the high tariffs in place.
Bump>fellows might I get some feedback...some help...thanks. What vendor/s here stateside might carry this panel? Surely Bill's isn't the only supplier. In my limited search I've turned up nothing positive.
Thanks CASO...another vendor I happened upon before I found your post is Bowtie Bits, LLC antique Truck Parts. Unfortunately, I suppose all panels are produced off shore these days.
Who has put a full inner front roof panel in the cab of a '59 TF...past or present? Any BIG concerns...advice from past mistakes in and around the "A" pillar area where the panels intersect? What I should be aware of before I start in with a cut-off wheel? I believe this particular panel is only tied in at the "A" pillar and adjacent inner roof panel. Truly wish I didn't have to cut into this area...but the full panel is rotten...pillar to pillar. Am I correct in thinking the lip closest to the windshield is an integral part of the pinch weld?
The only advise I have is.............ONLY use as much of the "panel" as necessary. Leave old metal that is not rusted. But I would have to see the entire inside to elaborate and confirm. I have patch repaired a lot of TF trucks, but not that piece.
Patch panel repair is pretty much all the same. All off shore parts. Need tweaking sometimes. Modified. Remove a little of the old at a time, bla bla bla.
Careful planning, measuring, template making, cutting, welding, are all the same. If you can't get behind it with a backer, you better know how to weld thin sheet metal.
Watch out for careful drivers!!! I'm away on an ego trip. Will be back on Feb 30. I'm not an Auto Mechanic, but I play one on TV. I charge $0.02 for every opinion and I take Paypal. Plan B is always better than plan A, by definition. I recommend invoking MIL-T-FP41c when machining and fabricating I used to think beer was bad for me, so I gave up thinking. Sometimes no nonsense makes sense, in a sense. You can't teach a new dog old tricks. Honk if you're Amish
I believe it is but you should be able to tell when windshield removed?
Watch out for careful drivers!!! I'm away on an ego trip. Will be back on Feb 30. I'm not an Auto Mechanic, but I play one on TV. I charge $0.02 for every opinion and I take Paypal. Plan B is always better than plan A, by definition. I recommend invoking MIL-T-FP41c when machining and fabricating I used to think beer was bad for me, so I gave up thinking. Sometimes no nonsense makes sense, in a sense. You can't teach a new dog old tricks. Honk if you're Amish
Just so happens my windshield is a bit rough...a chip here and there could be original...but the rubber is shot, dry rot, split in multiple places and someone tried to keep water out by using good old silicon chalk...no go. No choice it must come out. I'm trying to approach this project cautiously...I want to get experienced input/opinions before I dive into this with both feet. I've stitched panels in place before on other hotrods with relatively good results...but I'm an amateur at best. The GM assembly manual gives an artist view with decent orientation but I dealing with a partial panel not the full stamping.
