What a great job . Thanks for sharing the detail with us . This does help with my motivation to continue with my '37 build.
Your lovely truck definitely has a '40 front clip , the details are ; the top grill bar (chevrolet script) is deeper than '39 and goes right back to the edge of the nose cowl. The nose cowl is different also to allow for the top bar restyle . Then the grill has one less horizontal bar than '39 . The short headlights with sealed beams (first year for those). Park lights on the guards.
Here in NZ the '39 has round gauges , the '40 has the strip style , but that may just be a colonial thing .
The '46 is a gem and will look SO good out on the road .
Thank-you FOX for the encouraging words. I am sure it is a cliche', but if I had known how much work it was going to be...
Thanks Dusty, for the extra info on trying to determine the year. I think you are right, it is a '40. I searched up what I could on VIN decoding info, as the vehicle is Canadian the info from back then is a little spotty. From what I did find, I figured it to be a '39. Thanks, it will be good to have it registered correctly.
’40 Chev Truck Restomod update – April 12, 2019 Not too much to report for this week’s tour home, mostly I got the winter tires changed over to the summer’s on the daily drivers. That, and we got a room painted in the house! Super exciting, I know… Our oldest is serving in the Canadian military ( Armored ) and will be home for Easter, so Momma wanted to paint his bedroom before he arrives! I did however get some good work done on the truck. I added a top support to the battery tray as it was a little too wobbly for my liking. Not that the tray was weak, it had more to do with the flex in the firewall. By adding the top support I think I accomplished 2 things; the first is that I was not happy with the plastic clip that held down the battery, it seemed out of place. And the second was to stiffen up the whole thing by adding in an addition point of contact. I know I have mentioned the fuel tank before and thought I was mostly done with it. After spending 2 more days working on it I am on the fence whether a prebuilt one would have been a better choice. This was cheaper, and I got a custom tank that fits the truck perfectly in the space I want it to be, but darn what a load of work! Thinking about it now though, it just occurred to me that the fab work I was doing was mainly for the mounting bracket, which I would have had to do for a store bought tank as well… Lastly, I got the Lokar shifter mounted. Nothing too difficult there but it was one of those things that were on the to-do list so I can check that off. A cool tool that I have learned about recently that you may or may not have heard about is a rivet-nut. This is a handy alternative to fighting with small nuts or welding a nut to the backside of whatever you are trying to bolt to. It works pretty much the same as a standard rivet, except that the rivet-nut rivets itself to the metal rather than holding 2 pieces of metal together. Maybe it is just me, but I had never heard of them before and thought it worth mentioning. They work especially well with sheet metal and you can even add a support backer same as with a standard rivet. If you are interested in more info, go to google images and search: “rivet nut” Sorry, no pictures this time. Anyways, that is all for now. Later, Steve
’40 Chev Truck Restomod update – May 9, 2019 Hello again all, and thank-you all for your continued interest. I hope everyone had a good Easter; ours was nice as our oldest son was home, it was nice to be all together again. I started this project keeping a journal of what I accomplished each day and the hours spent as well. I have been letting that slide for a while now to the point now where I am having trouble remembering just what I did this last go round! As the cab and fenders were from a 1.5T and the frame is a ½ ton I had to do some work to the front cross member as it is forward of the radiator support about 1”. Since none of the holes lined up and the rad support was not supported properly, I cut out a section of the cross member about 6” long and 1” wide, then welded in a 2” wider support. That allowed the front clip to be levelled so the hood gaps are correct and everything is bolted secure. The front fenders needed to be shortened so they would fit the ½ Ton running board height. Once the fenders were where they needed to be, I could mount the running boards and determine where to cut the fenders. I liked the way they turned out. They are only stitched right now and will require some hammer and dolly work, but they came together really smoothly. Once off the truck, I can complete the welds and grind for body working. I also worked on prepping a few misc. parts and pieces for paint work. I have an opportunity at the shop in that I can have some parts ready to paint which can be mixed in with other parts being painted the same colour. Anyways, that is all for now. Later, Steve
May 24 Update Not much to report, I completed a few filler panels for the box sides which will tie the box into the running boards when completed. I have been unsuccessful locating a good set of used running boards to cannibalize, so Dean, my "GURU" played a bit with the pull-max and was able to recreate the beads in the original running boards. The next step will be to section the boards and "add" in the additional portions to tie the board into the rear fender and up to the box. The board will be curved to match the cab corner and will finish the look nicely! Please see the attached word doc for a couple of pictures.
Last edited by Canadian_guy; Sat Jun 08 2019 02:42 PM.
Thank-you for your continued interest in this “little” project! I am not a writer by trade so I struggle with how wordy to be when writing these. The focus for the work completed was the running boards and rear fenders. The running boards are original to the truck and are solid, but definitely showing their age. They had some dings and dents along the outer edges, minor considering their age, but i spent about 2 hours per running board to remove them. The mounting brackets welded to the underside were in tough shape, so those were removed and new ones fabricated and temporary installed. They are not on permanently, as I will need to locate the bolt holes and weld the bolts in prior to permanently welding them on. The truck had a flat deck on it when I bought it, so the box you see on it is a reproduction, as are the fenders. The fenders are for a 1947-53 truck so I have removed the styling detail lip on the front of each fender to make them look a little more stock, and maybe confuse some of the purists I will meet once it is on the road. To remove the lip I had to cut and section the fender, then stitch it together. Depending on how the running board extension turns out I may need to remove some additional material so they are only stitched for now. Once everything is fitted up and confirmed as complete I will finish welding them and then try out some hammer and dolly work to smooth them out.
I have attached a few pictures of the progress, I took a few more than usual and I marked 1 up to show what the running board will look like once extended.
Coming up next will be completing the running boards…
Ha Ha! I figured out how to edit the title so the main thread on the project journal page shows 1940 rather than '39.
For anyone wondering, I bought the truck at auction, sold to me as a '39. Some helpful folks pointed out the grill and fender lights which identified it as a 1940. Since then I have attempted to change the thread title to 1940 several times and just figured it out now.
June 20, 2019 Hello everyone, thank-you again for checking with the build and following along. This week’s adventure was a lesson in patience and cumulative error. What is cumulative error you ask? Well, let me tell you… Going through trade school I recall the topic being discussed, however I never really had a “real world” situation that illustrated the concept quite like this. What I was working on were the running board extensions, I needed to recreate the ribs formed into the step of the running board. The machine was available to me, called a pullmax, however a set of dies was not. They did have a single side die which they commonly use to “joggle” the piece to create an offset. The choice was to make a set of dies or use the joggle die, I chose to use the existing die as this was a one off project and I thought it would take less time to work the single die rather than create a multiple rib die. To get the rib spacing I started out on the 1st try using a Vernier and measuring very precisely thinking that once I figured out the spacing for the 1st rib the rest would be the same spacing as the 1st and it would just be a matter of measuring and adjusting the fence for each rib. I forgot to take into consideration the distance from one side of the die to the other and the spacing wound up being off on the land area so I was out of alignment almost immediately. I got 2 ribs in before I noticed the error and started over. Okay lesson learned, so for the 2nd try I would check the work piece to the corresponding original more often to verify that I am staying true to the originals. What I was doing was placing the work piece up to the original and comparing the rib I was working on to the original. I NEEDED to be aligning the first rib of each part and checking that all the spacing’s were true as I progressed, as trusting my finely honed measuring skills, the error continued to accumulate with each added rib. By the time I got to the 5th of 7 ribs I was out of position by almost a full rib. Alrighty-then! Third times the charm! I put down the Vernier and went strictly visual. It was more time consuming, as I was making constant trips back and forth from the machine to the truck to check the latest run, but in the end it proved to be the successful method. Looking at the original running boards I think the ribs are actually tapered as they run to the rear of each board. Very tough to re-create, but satisfying once it was done. That exercise took me 2 days to get done, almost 15 hours. The consolation prize is that I think the panels from try #2 will work really great as insert panels on the doors. See the last picture in the photo montage, the interior door panels have a detail area on them which I am thinking of using the ribbed portion on. This will add an interesting visual detail to the interior and tie the exterior and interior together. Thanks again for checking in, Steve
I'm impressed with your work mate, I'm doing a similar job. I have a '40 model which was restored in '83. and fitted with a tray (flat top). I always wanted a pickup, so 18 months ago, I bought a repro bed from the US and have been working on it part time since. I have it painted & sitting on the chassis now, ready to line up & drill the holes for the mounting bolts. I also then have to make running board extensions, but am looking at getting a pair off another truck, then cutting & shutting them. I'll be interested in how yours finish up. One problem I encountered was, as my truck has an Australian built cab, when the bed was sat on the chassis, there was a large gap between the front panel & the rear of the cab. I had to drill new holes in the rails, 60mm further forward. I assume that the Aussie Holden built cab is not as deep as the US Fisher one. I'll keep on checking your progress, and will get a picture of mine up in due course.