Stovebolt.com Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Blue Flame or Not

Call them- - - -they'll ship direct to you. I'm pretty sure they'll also have the right lifters. The last one I bought was around $100.00. Any set of stovebolt solid lifters will work with that cam. The older style "milk can" lifters require shorter pushrods than the ones from the late 1950's and newer.
Jerry

Thanks Jerry, I do just that!

A side note. When young people ask me what engine I have in my 54 iI tell them a Corvette. The first response is boy that must be fast. Then I open the hood and explain. BTW it is fast enough to keep up.

Craig,

I bought on of those Cams from Elgin and had to order it through an engine building in my area. Call Elgin and they will let you know who the closest seller is to you.

I contacted Elgin about some rocker arms a couple months ago, and was told the same thing- that I must order them from one of their distributors, that they don't sell directly to the public.

I've been doing business with the "Internal Engine Parts" warehouse in Nashville Tennessee for several years, and they distribute Elgin products. It looks like IEP is basically a southeastern USA company, but they definitely have a business relationship with Elgin. IEP also beats most of the online parts stores price-wise because they mostly cater to professional shops.

http://www.enginepartscenter.com/corporate.html

Jerry

Ok Guys I really appreciate all the Elgin information. I didn't buy the cam yet. I've hit a snag in my rebuild activity - a little issue with my heart. I was re-reading all the posts considering what I was going to do and I see that Jerry mentioned that the block should be cross drilled for lifters. Does that mean that I could use a hydraulic cam instead of a solid one. I haven't had a great deal of luck getting the valves adjusted in my truck (can't seem to get rid of a mis) and the thought of changing over to hydraulic sounds appealing. Since I'm on a health hold I'm in no hurry to tackle the rebuild anyway. If I can use a hydraulic cam what would be a good performance one and is there a difference in the push rods for the lifters.

Looking back I see drdoug said I could use a hydraulic one. Any recommendations?

Melling has two - their PN CCS-6 - which is a very mild, OE grind, or the slightly hotter CCS-5 which is the same advertised duration, but a bit more lift. Sealed Power (PN HT761) has hydraulic lifters, but others have reported issues with recent-build lifters, and I can't vouch for these specifically, other than to say I've had good luck with Sealed Power products over the years. I'm sure there are others...

RUN- - - - -do not walk away from a stovebolt with a hydraulic cam. They were temperamental with original equipment GM lifters 50-something years ago, and the current crop of overseas-made aftermarket lifters suck like a Dyson vacuum cleaner! Adjusting mechanical lifters is ridiculously easy if you get the engine up to full temperature first and do the adjustment with the engine stopped. Chasing a moving rocker arm around with a feeler gauge, a screwdriver, and a wrench takes three hands and a Cajun voodoo priestess from a "Swamp People" bayou chanting spells in some archaic language while you do it!
Jerry