The Stovebolt Page Forums Home | FAQ | Forum | Swap Meet | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Helping out ...


EVENTS

Check in for status!

Jump over to the Events Forum, to post events -- new ones or the ones we have been enjoying for some time.
Look to see what's been cancelled or postponed.

Encourage one another!

Stovebolt Site Search
 
Old Truck Calendars
Months of truck photos!
Nothing like an old truck calendar

Stovebolt Calendars

Check for details!


Who's Online Now
6 members (GeorgeCz, 48bigtrucks, DennisM, Cosmo, Pre '68 Dave, Cozsum), 204 guests, and 3 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums50
Topics121,402
Posts973,268
Members43,924
Most Online1,229
Jan 21st, 2020
Image Posting Policy
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Page 3 of 3 1 2 3
Re: brake issue...I'm totally stumped
Skooter #1302233 Fri Mar 08 2019 06:35 PM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 7,528
B
General Purpose
I agree with you about the temp. You say it only happens once in a while. So was the temp taken after a trip with no panic stops? The no. 1 reason for high temp, at a one wheel only, is bearing. Of course, there are other reasons.

You could have constant "shoe drag" if it pulls to left while coasting straight.

In the old days we used to turn drums and arc shoes. So that we got even contact. Is there any way you can see if the shoe wear is odd?...if drum wear is odd.

160-180 degrees could be normal. Get the other side tighter/Get the temps near equal.

Check your other vehicles to see if front temps are near equal to each other.

All these suggestions/tests we are giving are to get some information, hopefully you will get ideas from the data.....and possibly find the cause.



Watch out for careful drivers!!!
I'm away on an ego trip. Will be back on Feb 30.
I'm not an Auto Mechanic, but I play one on TV.
I charge $0.02 for every opinion and I take Paypal.
Plan B is always better than plan A, by definition.
You can't teach a new dog old tricks.


Re: brake issue...I'm totally stumped
Skooter #1302237 Fri Mar 08 2019 07:10 PM
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 824
D
Shop Shark
Drums can sometimes warp when they are hot and then hit cold water. So if you were driving and using the brakes quite a bit and had them pretty hot, then hit one drum with a puddle of water, Instant pull, and it would not always just go away after some driving time.. I am sure you have tried this but if not, maybe consider taking the drums to the machine shop and have them take a little cut from them, just to square them up, as noted above. Then take the shoes off and put them up against the drum and see what the contact pattern is. They should both be equally not in contact (just the ends, this is where years ago you would arc them to get full contact) ) or equally in contact.

Last edited by Dragsix; Fri Mar 08 2019 07:12 PM.

Mike
Re: brake issue...I'm totally stumped
Skooter #1302287 Sat Mar 09 2019 02:13 AM
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 272
D
Shop Shark
you probably have this covered... is the brake hardware reasonably new? Weak springs can cause some brake drag, as I'm sure you are aware. Just another thought I haven't seen covered in the conversation.

Re: brake issue...I'm totally stumped
Skooter #1302443 Sun Mar 10 2019 06:25 AM
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 82
T
Shop Shark
Originally Posted by Skooter
No not Bendix and no kinks in the all-new front lines from the dual MC to both fronts. Have also adjusted the anchor pins on both sides (and both rears) as prescribed in the shop manual. Both front wheel hub/bearings also adjusted per manual.

I've never been a professional mechanic but I've owned this truck 37 years and have done a ton of mechanical work in my life on this and many other vehicles. So I've been around the block. This one has me mystified.


Originally Posted by Skooter
pic...


I'm confused, you said you didn't have Bendix and posted a pic of Bendix brakes. Bendix brakes are correct for '52.

One thing I would definitely do, if my truck was doing that, would be to disassemble the wheel cylinders and make sure one side is not stuck. I do that stuff because I don't know what I'm doing. ohwell

I see you still have the single reservoir, but I think that's good as I think It points to the wheels as that is where the issue is. eel cylinders, again, mostly because I don't know what I'm doing. Sounds like it might be time to take apart the wheel cylinder that is pulling and/or check the lines to make sure fluid is not leaking.

Re: brake issue...I'm totally stumped
Skooter #1302495 Sun Mar 10 2019 07:06 PM
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 446
S
Skooter Offline OP
Shop Shark
Originally Posted by TradToolworks

I'm confused, you said you didn't have Bendix and posted a pic of Bendix brakes. Bendix brakes are correct for '52.

Sorry about that, guess there's alot to read and it's easy to miss stuff. I posted this right before the picture:
Originally Posted by Skooter
Excuse me, I'm getting Huck and Bendix confused...the '52 doesn't have the older one (while I search for a pic...)

Then I posted the pic to be clear everyone knew what I had.

It does get long and certainly confusing! Many valid suggestions by everyone, many thanks. thumbs_up
Since I'm getting kinda tired of jacking 'er up, pulling wheels, triple checking known good parts (such as brand new wheel cylinders), because it seems I've done it a million times over the last few weeks! headscratch ohwell big_eek

Gonna let 'er sit for a few days at least, but will be sure to check back in when and if a solution is found. Meanwhile keep the suggestions coming. Thanks again!


2 Chronicles 7:14

1952 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
Dalton Highway survivor
www.truckwithaheart.com [flickr.com]
Re: brake issue...I'm totally stumped
Skooter #1302526 Sun Mar 10 2019 11:20 PM
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 82
T
Shop Shark
Originally Posted by Skooter
Since I'm getting kinda tired of jacking 'er up, pulling wheels, triple checking known good parts (such as brand new wheel cylinders), because it seems I've done it a million times over the last few weeks! headscratch ohwell big_eek

Gonna let 'er sit for a few days at least, but will be sure to check back in when and if a solution is found. Meanwhile keep the suggestions coming. Thanks again!

I understand the frustration. There must be something fundamentally wrong.

Do the shoes move in/out if you pull on them? Do they seem solid when mounted?

I don't think I can help much more than that since you said the cylinders are new. This is presuming they are assembled correctly.

Re: brake issue...I'm totally stumped
Skooter #1302536 Mon Mar 11 2019 12:06 AM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 9,449
5
Master Gabster
I just took my '50 out for a 100 mile trip and had to hit the brakes pretty hard and the steering wheel pulled hard to the right. It never did that before. When I got back home, I jacked up the left side and found way too much movement when I grasped the top and bottom of the tire. Worn kingpin.
You say that you have 40,000 miles on your kingpins. That is a lot of miles believe it or not. The Book says to grease them every 1,000 miles. I have never grease them that often. I wonder if anyone does (except for Denny Graham).
Check yours out. Jack it up and grasp the tire at the sides and feel for movement. If it moves, its probably loose wheel bearings.
Now grasp the tire at top and bottom and try to feel movement. If the brake backing plate also moves, you need a new king pin/bushings.
Carl

Re: brake issue...I'm totally stumped
Skooter #1302586 Mon Mar 11 2019 03:13 AM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,621
C
Shop Shark
That is a head scratcher getting different temp readings after swapping drums and using all different (new) parts. I would start by eliminating the pressure/volume issue. For pressure an 8oo# gauge with a 3/16 or 1/4 female inverted flare fitting adapter on the gauge port would work. For volume a helper and a graduated cylinder is needed. The line you removed to check pressure is left open and when the one working the pedal says "down" the other puts his finger over the end of the line till the pedal worker says "up". Repeat twice and the when you hear "up" hold the graduated cylinder in a position to catch ALL the fluid till the pedal man says "down". Fill master cylinder and get at least one more reading. Repeat on other side. If both pressure and volume are the same then I'm baffled and no help. If not check the v/p at any T-block or other fitting that could be restricting the flow to the RIGHT side. If not for the temperature difference one could suspect all the various front end components but this difference in temp pretty much restricts the problem to the brakes themselves. Please reveal the fix if it happens.


Evan
Re: brake issue...I'm totally stumped
Skooter #1302607 Mon Mar 11 2019 12:49 PM
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,716
R
Shop Shark
Next time you are in the front wheels, measure the inside of both wheel cylinders to make sure they are the same size. If one wheel cylinder has a bigger cup diameter than the other, braking power will not be equal.

The holes drilled through those brass tees can also close up if the brake line is over tightened at some point.

Re: brake issue...I'm totally stumped
Skooter #1304356 Sat Mar 23 2019 05:31 PM
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 397
R
Shop Shark
I've read this with great interest. Seems you have touched on everything possible. My two cents. I would be leaning towards a weak brake sring. It doesn't pull on a normal stop only on a hard stop, right? It just seems to me one of the strings could be weaker than the rest. Just a thought. Someone else has mentioned this so I tend to agree with them. I will keep u with this and see what happens. I am almost in the process of replacing all the brake lines on my 49 1/2 ton and also the master cylinder. Hey, at least you have brakes. I have none and can't get them to bleed. Oh well, I'll get it. Good luck.


1949 Chevy 1/2-Ton ~ Red Truck

In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Photobucket
Page 3 of 3 1 2 3

Moderated by  SWEET 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Forum | Swap Meet | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.4