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Bad alternator rectifier? #1286630
Thu Nov 08 2018 10:08 PM
Thu Nov 08 2018 10:08 PM
D
DennisM  Offline OP
Shop Shark
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,310
Newport, OR
This is a 12v 235. I've got an issue with the battery draining after a few days. I've been using my Battery Tender to keep it up. Finally got around to investigating today. I don't notice any other electrical issues except for this. The entire electrical system is new including the AC Delco reman alternator for 1998-2001 Geo Metro. Got this from Rock Auto. I did modify the socket plug to use a jumper to the big lug. With the meter in series from the + bat lug to the disconnected + bat cable, I get .28A. If I disconnect the jumper between socket and lug it goes to zero. Any way to tell if it is the rectifier or maybe I screwed up something modifying the socket to add that jumper?


40 Chevy 1/2 ton
Re: Bad alternator rectifier? [Re: DennisM] #1286637
Thu Nov 08 2018 11:01 PM
Thu Nov 08 2018 11:01 PM
G
Gord&Fran  Offline
Shop Shark
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 432
Mill Bay, BC, Canada
You sure that it's a AC Delco? Might be a Denso with AC Delco part number?

Denso is not wired the same as Delco. e.g.

Denso wiring


Gord
----
1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed
Re: Bad alternator rectifier? [Re: DennisM] #1286644
Fri Nov 09 2018 12:03 AM
Fri Nov 09 2018 12:03 AM
D
DennisM  Offline OP
Shop Shark
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,310
Newport, OR
No markings saying it is AC Delco, but that is what I ordered from RA and they say that is what they sent. I appears like the this on the RA site this

Dennis


40 Chevy 1/2 ton
Re: Bad alternator rectifier? [Re: DennisM] #1286649
Fri Nov 09 2018 12:27 AM
Fri Nov 09 2018 12:27 AM
G
Gord&Fran  Offline
Shop Shark
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 432
Mill Bay, BC, Canada
like this?
AC Delco 3342021 = Denso

Quote
Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 10463618, 30006109, 30016320, 3140050G10, 3140060A21, 3140060A21REM, 3341879, 3342021, 437638, A5T07091, A5T07091A, A5T07091ZC, A5TA0791, A5TA0791A, A5TA0791ZC


How did you handle the pulley?


Gord
----
1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed
Re: Bad alternator rectifier? [Re: DennisM] #1286658
Fri Nov 09 2018 01:09 AM
Fri Nov 09 2018 01:09 AM
B
beltfed  Offline
Shop Shark
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,502
Knoxville, TN
What’s the chance of connecting the jumper to the socket to a switched hot wire instead of ‘always hot’ battery voltage. A bad rectifier pack will show a drain with the jumper unplugged since it’s leaking through one or more of the diodes in the pack.

Last edited by beltfed; Fri Nov 09 2018 01:15 AM.

Buzzard Baptist: Only goes to church when someone dies.
Re: Bad alternator rectifier? [Re: DennisM] #1286727
Fri Nov 09 2018 03:04 PM
Fri Nov 09 2018 03:04 PM
H
Hotrod Lincoln  Offline
Boltergeist
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 17,286
Dellrose, TN
A 280 milliamp parasitic drain is WAAAAYYYYY too much. You need to put that voltage monitor wire on a switched circuit.


The murder victim was drowned in a bathtub full of Rice Krispies and milk.
The coroner blamed the crime on a cereal killer!

Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
Re: Bad alternator rectifier? [Re: DennisM] #1286730
Fri Nov 09 2018 03:38 PM
Fri Nov 09 2018 03:38 PM
D
DennisM  Offline OP
Shop Shark
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,310
Newport, OR
Gord - does look like that but the one and that is the 2nd in my link. I have the 1st one (or suppose to anyway). I replaced the pulley with a slotted one.


Beltfed - seems like that might work but don't want to run any other wires. It's too pretty under there now.

Dennis


40 Chevy 1/2 ton
Re: Bad alternator rectifier? [Re: DennisM] #1286731
Fri Nov 09 2018 03:42 PM
Fri Nov 09 2018 03:42 PM
D
DennisM  Offline OP
Shop Shark
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,310
Newport, OR
So do you guys think the modified plug is OK and that it is the rectifier?

Dennis


40 Chevy 1/2 ton
Re: Bad alternator rectifier? [Re: DennisM] #1286753
Fri Nov 09 2018 05:20 PM
Fri Nov 09 2018 05:20 PM
B
bartamos  Offline
Master Gabster
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 5,339
State48 Ranch
We don't know what you did to the alt. Sounds like you are trying to do a "one wire" install. All you have told us is that you modified a "socket plug" to add a jumper. If you would be more specific and be exact, we could possible tell you if you did it right. That's if we know what you are doing. Does socket plug mean a female connector that you plug into the alternator male blades? If you have a drain, how did you know you had a drain? Does the motor not start after sitting? or did you notice something else. There are many ways to have a drain. A battery drain "after a few days" can be a bad battery or a component that is supposed to be off when ignition is off, but is not. We don't know all you have done with wiring and other component replacement. Was everything OK before new alternator? Why did you buy a new alternator? Lots of info and history left out here. Maybe you have installed a CD, bluetooth or a IPhone charger with a "on" light that is draining. Maybe some other "modern" gadget with a indicator light drain. Maybe you miswired something.

What does volt meter say across battery after sitting over night? What does the volt meter say across battery while motor is running? Take off the trickle charger and leave it off until you figure this out. Why did you choose a Suzuki GM alternator? Why not a normal 10Si from O'Reilly's that you could take back down the street. NEVER order a part like that from RA or any vendor and have it shipped. They are all over the place in every town. If you find out it is faulty and can prove it, then you have to ship it back, wait for approval and may pay a restock charge.

Bottom line is you are off on a electronic trouble shooting mission with no professional equipment. You are talking rectifiers and don't even know if you "modified" it correctly. You are playing with a new part. If RA finds out that you messed with the hookup, you and the alternator are toast.

Just give us the info as to how you hooked it up and what is wrong that causes you to ask about rectifiers(diodes). We have no idea what to say until you do that. Everyone is starting to get sucked into an electronics discussion. If the alt puts out proper voltage/amperage and it keeps the battery up, then it's good.

It's pretty simple to find a drain, if that is what is happening, by isolating various components overnight. One at a time. (Like: disconnect the alternator overnight.) That's if you first prove, and state, that your battering goes down overnight as truck is presently wired.

You can get into a testing marathon about milliamps and etc. if you want. I am trying get you to start by being more basic, go over what you have done, no reason to rush to the alternator that I know of. Others will have great, simple ideas, once they know the symptoms/complaint. Don't influence us with your theories and tests. All you know is the battery goes down in a few days. Take the cables off the battery, charge it to 12.6+ and let it sit a "few days" and recheck.
That is the first step. After that, get battery tested at a FLAPS for a double check. Then no sweat, we will help.

Commentary, not aimed at anyone: Many of us are guilty of these issues.
What really bugs me is people, who are just normal truck owners with some mechanic abilities, want to start digging into the internal electronics of a component like an alternator. They either charge or they don't. If they are correct for the internal or external resisted system emlpoyed. They are throw away/core components. A standard 63A 10si is cheap. AC/Delco reman $35-$50. You don't buy an odd ball application, Suzuki/Mitsubishi high dollar, low amp alternator, online. You don't modify or do a "one wire" unless you know what you are doing. You don't need to know it's inner electronic operation and the theory behind it.. You can't perform a discrete component/integrated circuit/specific component test and failure analysis. If you want to know just because you are curious, read about it later after you fix your problem. But first read on how to properly do a "modification" to "one wire".


1960 GMC K1001 (The Oreo SpeedWagon)

All I know is what the voices in my head tell me and a little from watching TV.


Re: Bad alternator rectifier? [Re: DennisM] #1286767
Fri Nov 09 2018 07:02 PM
Fri Nov 09 2018 07:02 PM
D
DennisM  Offline OP
Shop Shark
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,310
Newport, OR
I understand what you're saying Bartamos. You've given me several things to do so I'll take it from here and let you guys know what I find out. The reason I selected this alternator over the 10si is strictly for size. I've got a A/C compressor under it and needed the room and, to my eyes, the smaller size looks better.

Dennis


40 Chevy 1/2 ton
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