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'52 COE to "new"1 ton transplant questions
#1271528 Sat Jul 07 2018 12:20 PM
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 31
X
xtremek Offline OP
Wrench Fetcher
So I'm going to put my '52 COE on an '82 GMC C3500 dually chassis. I'm planning on drop spindles, PROBABLY air ride, and PROBABLY a 4 link rear end. My question is what size tires do you folks usually use when you do that? What do you use for control arms? For a frequently driven tow vehicle, what do you have the ride height set at? Thanks for your help?


The Hack Shack
"Don't try this at home. We're not professionals, but we don't care either."
My barn/property renovation thread - http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=222544
Re: '52 COE to "new"1 ton transplant questions
xtremek #1271570 Sat Jul 07 2018 04:19 PM
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 4,192
E
'Bolter
22.5's fill the wheel wells properly, but part of that depends on axle bolt pattern. If 8 on 6.5" , no 22.5 wheels are made to fit-don't even think of Al wheel adapters. If 5/10, then perhaps you have 19.5's, which will work, but look undernourished. 22.5's with that bolt pattern came on late '50's GM farm trucks as first tubeless tires, somewhat hard to find, though. 19.5's are also made to fit 8 on 6.5" bolt patterns, none were offered as factory, so aftermarket items, so expensive.

Torque arms off semi trailer rear axles come in lengths, are inexpensive($40. ea. at last check) mount on .875" bolt, which is kind of large but easy to make spacer. Kelderman uses them, look up some of his designs.

How does that front axle/wheel width work out with that setup?

Ed

Last edited by EdPruss; Sat Jul 07 2018 04:21 PM.

'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
Re: '52 COE to "new"1 ton transplant questions
xtremek #1271585 Sat Jul 07 2018 06:07 PM
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 31
X
xtremek Offline OP
Wrench Fetcher
Hey Ed, thanks for the info, it's a big help. I was more wondering about tire size, not wheel size. For wheels, I was thinking about getting some medium duty 20" steel wheels and getting the bolt pattern redrilled (I've had that done before), but then I might just stay with the 16" I have already. When I try to sketch things up, the stock tires look really big. So I was wondering if I'm using the right size, or my scaling is way off. I haven't checked how the cab will look on the c3500 chassis yet. The COE cab is a TON shorter than I thought, so I'm in the process of trying to do the aforementioned sketch before I start hacking things.


The Hack Shack
"Don't try this at home. We're not professionals, but we don't care either."
My barn/property renovation thread - http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=222544
Re: '52 COE to "new"1 ton transplant questions
xtremek #1271591 Sat Jul 07 2018 06:43 PM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 9,176
G
.
The cab and fenders fit over original tires that were about 36-38” tall.
A 9R22.5 tire is 38” tall, they would fit difficult to find wheels from some 56-59 Chevy 1.5 tons, 10 lug on 7.25 pattern. Some newer GM trucks like the 3500HD (I-beam front axle) and some P30 and similar chassis used this pattern with I-beam or independent front.

An 8R19.5 tire is 32” tall and fits easy to find wheels with same 10 lug or normal 8 lug on 6.5”, 1 ton pattern. Ed wasn’t sure these existed factory/stock in 8 lug, but they do, I have a set on my 1 ton GMC.

The above is all about dual type wheels.



1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals [stovebolt.com]
1948 Chevrolet 6400 [stovebolt.com] - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup [stovebolt.com]
---All pictures [picasaweb.google.com]---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Re: '52 COE to "new"1 ton transplant questions
xtremek #1271637 Sun Jul 08 2018 12:17 AM
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 31
X
xtremek Offline OP
Wrench Fetcher
Thanks Grigg, that's what I was looking for. Anyone else do a COE cab transplant onto a hotrodded, lowered, one ton dually chassis? I don't want to do a slant back and I'm thinking of putting Cummins in the stock location. Thanks again for everyone who has stopped by.


The Hack Shack
"Don't try this at home. We're not professionals, but we don't care either."
My barn/property renovation thread - http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=222544
Re: '52 COE to "new"1 ton transplant questions
xtremek #1271738 Sun Jul 08 2018 09:04 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 22,980
H
'Bolter
What are you planning on towing? Some of the suspension modifications you're contemplating might not play well with a trailer with any kind of weight onboard. Suspension and steering geometry in general on a lowered and air-bagged vehicle can get pretty challenging, and when a trailer gets into the mix, problems sort of tend to expand exponentially. Be sure to do your geometry homework before you get very deep into the project.
Jerry


The murder victim was drowned in a bathtub full of Rice Krispies and milk.
The coroner blamed the crime on a cereal killer!

Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
Re: '52 COE to "new"1 ton transplant questions
xtremek #1271764 Mon Jul 09 2018 12:00 AM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 9,759
5
'Bolter
You would be better off channeling the body to lower it rather than altering the 3500 chassis.

Re: '52 COE to "new"1 ton transplant questions
xtremek #1271860 Mon Jul 09 2018 05:26 PM
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 31
X
xtremek Offline OP
Wrench Fetcher
Gents, thanks for your input and advice. I was thinking of doing a spindle drop on the front and have the bags set so they were in the middle of their travel at that ride height, and completely bagging the rear. My plan is to haul a 35'-40' fifth wheel along with the regular load of fine crushed concrete with the dump box loaded for the driveway. I'm also thinking the body drop is part of the equation, dependent on how the drivetrain sits in it.


The Hack Shack
"Don't try this at home. We're not professionals, but we don't care either."
My barn/property renovation thread - http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=222544
Re: '52 COE to "new"1 ton transplant questions
xtremek #1271902 Mon Jul 09 2018 10:34 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 22,980
H
'Bolter
I'd be VERY reluctant to try pulling loads like that with anything other than a new, purpose-built truck with a LOT of factory engineering in its pedigree. You're getting into at least medium-duty Diesel territory with loads like that, and stopping and steering a rig like that with some sort of home-brewed suspension system could get deadly dangerous not only to you, but everybody who shares the road with you. A commercial vehicle enforcement officer would probably get writer's cramp in his ticket-writing hand if you ever got stopped and inspected.
Jerry


The murder victim was drowned in a bathtub full of Rice Krispies and milk.
The coroner blamed the crime on a cereal killer!

Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
Re: '52 COE to "new"1 ton transplant questions
xtremek #1271957 Tue Jul 10 2018 04:14 AM
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 650
M
'Bolter
It would seem to me that a drop spindle does nothing to the steering and suspension geometry. That's why I chose that method. Lowering the back changes your driveline angle a little but not much else. All you have really done is lower the center of gravity a little, I don't know a lot about stovebolts but I know a little about towing. A modern 1 ton dually doesn't even know a 40' fifth wheel is back there.


Old enough to know better, too young to resist.
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