Since my last post, I have mainly been kept busy doing odd jobs to help pay for the truck, but I did work in a few things.
62Stick, good tip about reinforcing the doors before I start cutting. I have included a few pictures of the main areas of concern, and there are some more added to my shared Google photos album (now accessible through my signature, not the prettiest link, but it works. I'm still trying to become UBB literate). I also got some of the wiring and heater components stripped out of the cab
I also pulled the big truck gauge cluster from the new cab and started digging around about how I can get the tachometer work with my six cylinder. Apparently there is some kind of capacitor that can be swapped to make an 8 cylinder tach work on a six cylinder. I also confirmed that it is an external input unit, so I'll have to get the rest of the gauge off of the C-70's fender well. I was a little disappointed to find out that it is not a factory tach. It was made by Sun Electric, and it has been modified to make it fit into the factory cluster. It fits, and looks good, so I'll probably use it anyway. I noticed when I was stripping the wiring etc, out of the cab that there were 3 aftermarket gauges (temp, oil pressure, amperes. Judging by the style of them, I'd say they were installed in the 70s or 80s) that are redundant to the ones in the cluster, so I'm guessing the gauges in the cluster don't work. Hopefully I can repair them.
The main thing was that I found a Borg Warner R-10H overdrive on Craigslist in New Jersey. I picked it up on Thursday, timed it just wrong so that I was on the I-495 beltway in the middle of rush hour. It turned out when I got there that it was actually a package deal for 3 transmissions (all passenger car trannys, and only one with overdrive). The Idea is to take the overdrive off and put it on my transmission. I think I can sell the other two transmissions for close to what I paid for the lot, so that will help offset the cost of the switches, relays, etc, none of which were included. Anyway, I tore it down this morning to inspect it, it is internally in good shape EXCEPT for the planetary gears. I looks like all three shafts holding the planet gears into the cage sheared off, and one of the planet gears got pretty badly mashed up (pic attached). The sun and ring gears are still good, although the sun gear is definitely worn. I guess they must be made out of stronger material the planet gears, so the planet gears basically acted like a shear pin. I am going to post in the driveline forum about possible solutions.
Are you sure that's the best cab of the two?? That rust is pretty nasty. I know the original cab had a major munch on the driver side rear quarter, but what about chopping and combining the two? It would be a major undertaking, but in my opinion, it may be easier than repairing the large rusted out areas in the "new" cab.
Yes, believe it or not that is the better of the two. The only places on the old cab that is better than the new one is the area on the driver's side inner skin, and the bottom of the door pillars. In addition to having all of the same rust areas of the new cab (minus those 2), it is rusted all of the way across the top of the windshield both inside and out, and on the corner of the door column near the gas tank filler neck. I will have to scare up some pictures of the old one. An interesting suggestion about combining the two cabs, I was going to do that on a slightly less impressive scale with the two areas I mentioned. Honestly, for the cost of the patch panels, I'm thinking I could almost afford a better cab. Hambone gave me the number of a fellow in Pennsylvania who brings parts back here from the southwest, and I beginning to wonder how much he would charge for a cab.
The hole on the rear of cab (where a seat belt might go) is curious. They dont rust there. I suspect you have a big nest up in the roof and the rust is caused by something that was living up in there. Poke around up in there.
Doug, that's what I was thinking too. I'll do some poking around and report back. Unfortunately, that area got banged up on the old cab, so I'm going to have to either try to get it back into shape, or try to find someone who will let me cut it out of their cab. I would think that piece would be the same on both styles of cab?
I also thought I'd mention that I found another sm319/R10 on ebay and snatched it up. Hopefully this one is in better shape, it looks like it in the pictures anyway (which obviously tells me the inside is in good shape, right? :))
Doug, thank you for the offer. I am going to talk to Marty about getting a new cab on Sunday, but if I decide not to go that route I would definetly like to get that piece off of your cab. Unfortunately, the rust goes all the way down to the bottom edge of the panel, which is of course the mirror image of the opposite side. If it was above the edge, I'd have been fine.
I am hopefully going to be working on the radiator core support tomorrow while I'm waiting to decide the fate of the cab, if so, I will try to post an update.
For your enjoyment, I have included some pictures of the old cab.
Also, on an intersting side note, I have heard from several sources that the firewalls on these trucks were painted the same metallic beige as the interiors. However, I can find no evidence of this on either of my cabs. Both were originally brigade blue, and although both trucks were repainted, the firewalls were not, and both appear to be painted the primary body color. I have included two pictures of the firewalls to illustrate this, you can see the top layer of blue paint with red primer directly underneath. Maybe it varied based on assembly plant?
My 62 firewall was interior cab color. That surprised some folks as most are painted truck color. I never did find the reasons. My guess is that some plants just painted with what they had in the gun. I like the fawn collar on the firewall and I am considering what I will do with my 66 cab.
By the way - time and money goes with a new cab. You will spend quite a bit on panels, and filler on those holes.