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Back Seam Question
#1261235 Mon Apr 02 2018 11:10 AM
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 188
4
47PUJim Offline OP
Shop Shark
The seam that separates the roof from the back panel on my ‘47 3100 AD is “open” as there is no caulking in it. Seems over time water could creep into the seam causing rust issues.
Was the seam originally filled with caulking or something else? The exposed seam does offer an interesting line break but I’m leaning towards seam filler and painting over it.
Looking for info on the original from factory condition as well as what others have done to deal with this issue.

Re: Back Seam Question
47PUJim #1261274 Mon Apr 02 2018 05:21 PM
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 196
F
Shop Shark
Jim, My AD started life as a 3 window. I had a light bulb moment to do a roof swap and make it a 5 window. That seam is where I split my cab(s) and did the surgery. There are a lot of spot welds holding the top of the cab, the roof, to that lower back panel and yes, there was a lot of rust on those pitch welds between the body half’s. I cleaned up all the rust at that location and then primed everything, and then used a generous bead of seam sealer between the two halves before I welded and screwed the pieces back together. As there is no movement between those body parts I think that if you clean up that area real well and prime it, and then use a quality seam sealer before paint, it should make for a clean and long lasting repair and future rust or cracking of the seam sealer shouldn’t be an issue. Mine is Still Solid 30+ years later.
Good luck, Dave


1948 5-window 3100 Chevy
327 V-8 TBI 700R4 Posi 3.73
"Old Blue"
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Flickr
Re: Back Seam Question
47PUJim #1261312 Mon Apr 02 2018 10:55 PM
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 141
R
Shop Shark

Was the seam originally filled with caulking or something else?

When the truck was manufactured, the seam at the back of the cab was filled with lead solder.

Re: Back Seam Question
47PUJim #1261315 Mon Apr 02 2018 10:57 PM
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 188
4
47PUJim Offline OP
Shop Shark
Thanks for the suggestion, Dave.
Today I cleaned the entire length IOf the that channel with a Rolodex disk. I found solid metal and no issues with rust. Think your suggestion coin codes with my thoughts: clean the channel, epoxy prime, squeeze seam sealer into the seam, then paint.
Am going to try to be careful not to completely cover/bury the seam until I find out what was originally done by the factory. This is a DD but I’m trying to keep it as original as I can.

Re: Back Seam Question
RdsLessTaken #1261322 Tue Apr 03 2018 12:07 AM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,489
K
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Originally Posted by RdsLessTaken

Was the seam originally filled with caulking or something else?

When the truck was manufactured, the seam at the back of the cab was filled with lead solder.

That seam wasn't leaded, it was sealed with seam sealer per the FAM.
The seam between upper and lower cowl panels and at the upper corners of the windshield were leaded, however.


Kevin
First car '29 Ford Special Coupe
#2 - '29 Ford pickup restored from the ground up.
Newest Project - 51 Chevy 3100 work truck. Photos [flickr.com]
Busting rust since the mid-60's
Re: Back Seam Question
47PUJim #1261331 Tue Apr 03 2018 01:22 AM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 9,302
5
Master Gabster
I had mine media blasted, epoxy primed, and filled the seam with 3M panel adhesive. The 3M panel adhesive is 2 part and is wonderful to work with and is as permanent as it gets. It does not take much to fill the crack of the pinch weld. When you are done, you should not be able to tell where the pinch weld was. It should look just like the top of the belt line. I see too many high dollar rebuilds with seam sealer spooge under the expensive paint like they did it with a finger. Seam sealer doesn't last either.

Re: Back Seam Question
47PUJim #1261604 Thu Apr 05 2018 06:34 PM
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 188
4
47PUJim Offline OP
Shop Shark
52Carl,

After cleaning the seam I found no rust. I will check out the panel adhesive by 3m. Thanks for the suggestion.


Moderated by  HandyAndy, klhansen 

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