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Re: First Bolt-1963 Chevy Long Stepside [Re: 63stepsideLB] #1251663
Fri Jan 19 2018 10:19 PM
Fri Jan 19 2018 10:19 PM
6
63stepsideLB  Offline OP
Wrench Fetcher
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 37
Culpeper, VA
Thank you both very much for the feedback! I am thinking POR-15 sounds like the way to go. I'll hopefully have another update soon!


Cedric L. Brown
1963 Chevrolet C-10 long stepside
Re: First Bolt-1963 Chevy Long Stepside [Re: 63stepsideLB] #1252137
Tue Jan 23 2018 06:16 AM
Tue Jan 23 2018 06:16 AM
6
62Stick  Offline
Shop Shark
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 338
Sacramento, CA
Nice to see a young man doing the dirty work on old iron.

My first vehicle was a 1963 Chevy C10 Longbed Fleetside. I got that when I was still 15 years old and paid $500 for it. It was a rolling basket case, but it ran. It was also that same baby blue as your truck, except for the front right fender and grill surround, they were bright orange. I used the time I had from when I got it until I turned 16 to go through it and get it up to speed mechanically. When I turned 16, I had a reliable vehicle to get to work and go to school in. At that time, it wasn't much to look at, but it got me where I needed to go. It had the original 283 V8 and Powerglide 2 speed automatic. Over the years, I did a lot of work to it, including paint and various power train combinations. When I finally had to sell it, (I was getting married and needed money more than I needed 2 trucks and 2 motorcycles) it has the dark blue metal flake in the pictures below and had a 400 SBC and TH400 3 speed. I was 19 years old in those photos.

During the years I had it, it went through a lot of changes. Just about everything on it was repaired or replaced. I figured out later that the only things left on the truck from when I bought it to when I sold it were the rear window, the drive shaft, and the sheet metal in the cab. Everything else had been replaced at one time or another. Even the frame and suspension were from a 1965.

I treasure the time I spent working on that old truck with my Father. He taught me a lot during that time. Now, I am doing the same thing with my daughter on a 1962 C10 Shortbed Stepside, only this time, I am the teacher, not the student.

It sounds like you are doing the same thing with your Grandfather. It's all time well spent.

Like others have already said, there is a wealth of knowledge on this site. Feel free to ask. There are no stupid questions, except the ones left unasked.

Attached Files
Re: First Bolt-1963 Chevy Long Stepside [Re: 63stepsideLB] #1252254
Wed Jan 24 2018 03:23 AM
Wed Jan 24 2018 03:23 AM
Achipmunk  Offline
Boltergeist
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 16,027
Boiling Springs, S. C. 29316

Yes, seeing the younger generation tapping in with us is a good sign. I see more and more young'uns around here doing the same thing. There is one young man who works at Chic-fil-a that is trying to get an old jeep on the road. Needless to say, I am helping and encouraging him when I visit CFA....which is every day!


Stick, that picture of you and your dad is priceless. Enlarge it and hang it in your special place...... .my dad died when I was 15 but, like you, I had my daughter helping me along the way. Priceless memories for sure.


1937 Chevy Pickup
1952 Chevy Panel
Pictures in my Photobucket
1950 Chevy Coupe

52 Chevy Panel

I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you smile
Re: First Bolt-1963 Chevy Long Stepside [Re: 63stepsideLB] #1252260
Wed Jan 24 2018 03:52 AM
Wed Jan 24 2018 03:52 AM
6
62Stick  Offline
Shop Shark
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 338
Sacramento, CA
63Step,

I was looking at your album of photos and noticed you have the full gauge cluster in that C70 cab. That's a major score. You'll want to refurbish that and use it in your C10. A factory original tach is hard to come by and the aftermarket replacements are expensive. There are a few minor wiring changes to be made, but you'll like having the full instrumentation over the standard "Idiot Lights".

Edit: The Tach may not work on your 250. Those tachs were designed to work with the V8s. I'm not sure if it can be changed to work on an I6.

Last edited by 62Stick; Wed Jan 24 2018 03:57 AM. Reason: Added tach info.
Re: First Bolt-1963 Chevy Long Stepside [Re: 63stepsideLB] #1253590
Sat Feb 03 2018 02:23 AM
Sat Feb 03 2018 02:23 AM
6
63stepsideLB  Offline OP
Wrench Fetcher
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 37
Culpeper, VA
I made a little bit of progress today, so I thought I would post a quick update. Thanks stick for pointing out that I could use that gauge cluster in my truck. That hadn't occurred to me. I was thinking about the tachometer, there was a black box (excuse the lack of technical language :)) in the engine compartment that was wired to the tach, I assume this was the actual "gauge" and the needle in the dash is just a readout. Would it be possible to get one of those black boxes from another truck, maybe a 67-72 model, they could be optioned with tachs I believe, or a big truck from my era that had a tach and a 292? I haven't done any research on it yet, so I'm just throwing ideas around.

I brought the a arms, springs and trailing arms to my house, and picked up a quart of POR-15. I wire wheeled them today, tomorrow I plan on cleaning them with TSP and putting on a coat of the POR. This will be sort of a practice round before I do the frame. I also started making the patches for the cab mounts. I'll try to post another update tomorrow to say how it goes.


Cedric L. Brown
1963 Chevrolet C-10 long stepside
Re: First Bolt-1963 Chevy Long Stepside [Re: 63stepsideLB] #1254797
Tue Feb 13 2018 02:38 AM
Tue Feb 13 2018 02:38 AM
6
63stepsideLB  Offline OP
Wrench Fetcher
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 37
Culpeper, VA
Well, it took me a little longer than I expected, but I got the A-arms, trailing arms, springs, and axle crossmember painted with POR-15. I have some black chassis paint that I bought at NAPA that I will put over it for UV protection. It went very well, except for the first coat on the inside of the axle crossmember. I wasn't planning ahead, and painted the outside first, and then got paint all over my arm trying to paint the inside. dang Oh well, It's mostly gone now. We discovered some asphalt and tar remover that actually took it off pretty well, with a lot of scrubbing, as long as the POR was still tacky. It turned out alright though, and I am pleased with the outcome. I am going to use it on my frame and axle as well. Before I paint the frame, I am going to weld some patches on the cab mount brackets. I made them by taking some steel plate and marking out the holes for the cab mounting bolts, and then drilling around the perimeter of the holes with a 1/4" bit. I knocked out the centers and finishing them with a half-round file. I got the dimensions from a set of plans I found on the internet and measuring the intact mounts on my spare frame.

I think, after a long slump, things are finally moving again! yahoo

After I get the frame and suspension reassembled, I am going to reinstall the drive train. I plan on painting the engine (Instead of red, though, I think I will paint it the blue that the original engine would have been painted), and breaking into the transmission, just to check for any excessive wear and to replace anything perishable. I was thinking I would reinstall the radiator and core support, exhaust system, brake lines, and tail light wiring before I start working on the body. I may even run the engine. I would like to clean out the crud under the valve cover, if I can figure out a way to do that without a full tear-down. One thing I noticed was that I have a very odd oil fill cap. It's basically just a rubber plug, but all the ones that I can think of that I have seen are the metal, vented type. I need to replace it, the rubber is dried out, making it loose in the hole. I have not seen this style of fill cap for sale anywhere, and I like the vented style better anyway, so I'll probably install one of these, unless there is something special about my engine that prevents me from using one. I'll be looking into that. I am also starting to think about the wiring harness. The one I have now is a mix of the butchered and deteriorating original harness, and jury-rigged additions and modifications (I swear the headlights are wired with an old electrical cord!). I think I will replace the whole thing, but I am unsure what supplier to use. I am also unsure what supplier to use for the exhaust. I noticed that NAPA has the complete system for a reasonable price, but I am not sure how well it would fit. If any one has ever replaced any of this, I would appreciate any advice.

After I finish the chassis, I believe I will start with the bed, instead of the cab, as the body work will be easier and good practice for the cab and front sheet metal. one of the few modifications I would like to do to the truck is add a side mounted spare tire. I haven't decided yet whether to buy a fender with a cutout, or fabricate my own cutout, or just fabricate my own mount and forget about the fender cutout altogether (I have checked the dimensions with my current tires, and they will fit between the fender and the cab). My first choice would be to buy a fender, since the one I have now is pretty beat up (but not irrepairable), but they do seem to be expensive, so I guess I'll keep my eye out, and cross that bridge when I come to it. I did found out this week that there is a difference between fenders for an 8-ft and 6 1/2-ft beds, which I did not realize. Good to know. I am somewhat surprised that no one seems to make kit to install a cutout on a regular fender. It doesn't seem like it would be all that hard to do, but maybe I am underestimating the difficulty.

Anyway, that's my update for now, I'll try to be better about posting more often. I hope to get the patches welded on this week and get a coat or two of POR on during the brief warm spell that's coming through.

Attached Files

Cedric L. Brown
1963 Chevrolet C-10 long stepside
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