We are still asking:
What did you get done on your Bolt today ????
The question, initially posted May 23, 2005, was:
"Whatcha do on your Bolt this weekend?"
After 51,906,997 views, 7378 replies over 185 pages, this thread in General Truck Talk is a happening! And it's not just weekends anymore.
Now with pictures and No BOTS.
So ...
What did you get done on your Bolt today????
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Oh Lord, I just gotta find it....
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Forums60
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Most Online1,229 Jan 21st, 2020
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 Re: How To Lift Burb Body?
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Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 831
'Bolter
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I just did this today. I used "Slide-out Stabilizers" made to support slide-outs on RV's and travel trailers. They theoretically support 5000 lbs each and I welded a plate on the bottom for better stability. Once they're under the body it's effortless to crank them higher. They'll go up to about 48" but I only had to raise my body to about 31" to roll the chassis out. Best part: they cost only $39 for four.
1951 Chevy Panel Truck
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 Re: How To Lift Burb Body?
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 335
Shop Shark
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I used some camper jacks and a 4x4 in the front and a role around bumper jack in the rear.My 37 isn’t all that heavy. I also used screw eyes in the ceiling and rope for safety. Distribute the weight over four points and go slowly.actually it was pretty easy.
These old bolts are in my blood. Hard thing is focusing on just one.
1937 Chevy 1/2 ton panel 1953 GMC 2 ton. future car hauler
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 Re: How To Lift Burb Body?
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Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 418
'Bolter
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** When I removed the body {from firewall to rear} from the frame to transport to body shop for full restoration of my 53 Suburban I ran a 3 inch strap through the door openings and the same at forward area of rear windows. Seemed to work fine. The body and all removed & restored parts are just about ready to bring back home to complete the full restoration. I discussed lifting the body the same way with the in charge body shop person. He said being that I had all the seams that were leaded in at the factory welded after lead was removed the body could be placed back on the frame the same way I removed it without worry. *** My question here is what are the thoughts of you Suburban guy's that have lots of dealings with the Suburban's???
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 Re: How To Lift Burb Body?
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,514
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
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When I did this: http://www.bunchobikes.com/1952suburban15.jpg , I used 6' wide straps right where you see them. The only thing that got distorted was the front door, outer window trim. And I believe that was because I was coming up on the crane and didn't realize that I was getting stuck on the steering column and some wiring I didn't see. The rear window outer trim didn't distort and looks fine. I don't think you will have any issues, but, as with lifting any load, if you could spread that load, you'd be better off. In other words, the wider the lifting strap you use, the less chance you would have at localized deformation.
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 Re: How To Lift Burb Body?
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Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 173
OP
Shop Shark
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Well I got the body off. I used a combination of suggestions in this thread. Jacked it up at the firewall with my floor jack until I got a 4x4 under the cowl, then jacked the rear up from the wood floor until I got a timber under the wheel wells. I found a used "high-lift" jack at a second-hand store that took it high enough to roll the chassis out. I was intimidated at first but it ended up easier than I expected. Thanks for all the advice!
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 Re: How To Lift Burb Body?
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Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 5
New Guy
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Any posted weights of the Panel/Sub bodies? Specifically, I have a 56 Panel. I'm guessing in the 500-800 lb range?
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 Re: How To Lift Burb Body?
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 31,520
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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That information is not on-line for 55-57 trucks.
For 1954/55st trucks:
3103: 3020 lbs (cab and no bed) 3104: 3285 lbs (cab & bed) 3105: 3490 lbs (Panel) 3106: 3770 lbs (Suburban)
So, for earlier trucks, the Panel/Suburban body/doors (no seats) weighed about 500lbs? For 1958, 500-600 lbs
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 Re: How To Lift Burb Body?
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 110
Jack of all trades and a Master of None!
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I did mine by myself, in a regular size 2 car garage, with regular height ceilings.
I removed all 4 wheels, and let complete vehicle down onto wheel dollies, resting on the brake drums. You will need to use wood blocks to get your floor jack back out once you lower the chassis down.Then I loosened all chassis to body mount points. I then took a floor jack and jacked up the front section of the body dead center on the firewall, my engine and transmission were already removed. After jacking the front section of the body I went high enough to slide a 6x6 between the body and the chassis. Then I went to the rear, I jacked the rear body panel and went high enough to get the 6x6 between the body and chassis. Once this is completed your 6x6 are sticking out where you can lift with your floor jack and then once you have the desired height set your jack stand under it. This is where it gets sticky. You can't go to high on one corner to soon. I had to go small height amounts on each side working back and forth. Then do the same for rear. You have to get the body pretty high up off the chassis for the chassis crossmembers to clear. I used tall style "SUV" jack stands. I would also recommend you have the complete body bare, with no doors, trim, seats, glass ect. Mine was completely dismantled, not only does it save weight but gives you complete access to everything. I had to bring the chassis out of the middle, like tick tacking back and forth.
I did not access to a lift or a tractor with a bucket to get mine off. This worked. Thinking back on it now I would not hesitate to do this again but I would have had an extra set of hands to help shift and jockey the chassis out. I did something very similar to this, it worked okay... Just wish I would have had a 2 post hoist!
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