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Jan 21st, 2020
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Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 10
OP
'Bolter
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Has anyone ever put a 1946 Chevy COE cab on a 2000's Sierra 3500HD chassis?
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Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 2,436
Big Bolt Forum Moderator
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welcome to the site! Make sure to post in the welcome wagon and introduce yourself and your truck!
My trucks are newer so, I am not real familiar with your year (nor the COE) but, there are a number of threads on here talking about older cabs on newer frames, COEs included.
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 9,189
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The front axle will be noticeably wider, have you measured how far the wheels will stick out the fenders, and if you can live with that or do something about it?
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 975
'Bolter
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When I first joined Stovebolt there was a bolter on here, Sublime , was his handle, that put a 1/12 ton body on a full size frame. I was fascinated with his skills. He widen his fenders by cutting them down the middle and adding 4". Here is his gallery picture.. Maybe will help in your decision. Have fun and good luck Dan
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Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 32
Wrench Fetcher
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I"m working on similar project now, 48 GMC 5 window COE on a 2500 HD Duramax. I will be setting the cab later this winter which will answer a lot of questions going through my head. Or it just might put a lot more questions up there???????
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 141
Shop Shark
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I have a 55.1 450 GMC COE going onto an 88 Chevy 3/4 ton 4wd chassis. The cab is mounted and the bed is created. Steering was functional but I didn't like the angles so I'm going to use a Steer Clear steering column offset to improve steering geometry. I know that the cabs have gotten wider with each vintage body style. I think you'll find that the 46 would be quite narrow for the 2000+ chassis. On that note anything can be overcome. It just depends on how hard you want to overcome the the issues. Some of the issues you'll need to overcome:
1) Track width - Tires sticking out too far from the body.
2) Body height - Are you lowering the truck or keeping a taller ride height?
3) Cab intrusion - How willing are you to have the engine intrude above the cab floor?
4) Bed length - If you're using 4wd the bed length will have to be longer than if you run 2wd.
5) Steering column to box geometry - The short length of the cab/hood makes for steep alignment of the steering joints.
6) Insert more issues here.
7) Adopt a shop motto like mine - "I always win." That will provide motivation to overcome the struggles.
8) Theory - Planning - Testing (at wrecking yard) - THEN purchase frame to actually follow through on your theory.
"I always win." Working mainly alone I do not let my trucks win a war. Maybe a battle here and there but never the war.
Robert
55.1 GMC 450 COE
51ish GMC Suburban
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 4,036
'Bolter
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When I first joined Stovebolt there was a bolter on here, Sublime , was his handle, that put a 1/12 ton body on a full size frame. I was fascinated with his skills. He widen his fenders by cutting them down the middle and adding 4". Here is his gallery picture.. Maybe will help in your decision. Have fun and good luck Dan I remember Sublime also. His workmanship was outstanding. But his was a conventional cab, not a COE.
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Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 4,976
'Bolter
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GMC made wide front fenders for '41 to '47 conventional trucks(I have several), might be less work? than widening stock fenders.
Ed
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
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