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Re: 51 3104 Spacer Blocks
tinnerjohn #983388 Sun Nov 03 2013 12:19 PM
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 167
C
Wrench Fetcher
I made a set out of pressure treated 4x4. Cut them down, drilled the holes in the center and soaked them in a can of sanding sealer. They worked just fine and will probably be there after the bed rusts off of the truck for the second time! I thought the offset washers were to keep the main bed bolts from turning and pulling through the wood.?? Does anyone have a template for the position of those holes?

Mitch

Re: 51 3104 Spacer Blocks
tinnerjohn #1240736 Thu Oct 26 2017 04:48 AM
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,663
S
Shop Shark
I'm seeing the same problem with 2-1/4 blocks with an addition of the thickness of the rubber spacer pushes the rear sill mount about 3/8" in the air. This does not seem right. Any body have a clue as to why the blocks are cut too thick. I do not want to torque the bed down and stress the side bed panels.
Just for the record this is a 36K original miler with original sheet metal never hit and the frame is straight as a pin too.
Bluemeane might be right the spacer blocks and rubber spacer should equal 2-1/8" combined to eliminate the gap at the rear sill.

Attached Files
bed.mount1.jpg (69.18 KB, 109 downloads)
bedmount2.jpg (36.4 KB, 111 downloads)
bedmount3.jpg (45.25 KB, 102 downloads)
Last edited by sstock; Thu Oct 26 2017 06:04 AM.

1953 Chevrolet 3100
261 cu inch, sm420, 3.55 rear, torque tube still,omaha orange, still 6 volt, RPO green glass, side carrier spare, all done
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bli...n05i04t1aokgm4p04jiwgffwhyyih5xbk0h00410
1964 GMC 1000
305 Big Block V6, sm420, the next cab off restoration
Re: 51 3104 Spacer Blocks
sstock #1240917 Fri Oct 27 2017 03:07 AM
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 409
M
Shop Shark
The three mounting points on the frame should all be on the same plane if the frames not tweaked. The stacked up height of the cross sill, cross sill bracket, and wood block should be the same as the rear sill mounting brackets for the bed to sit level. Some vendors are making cross sills taller than others and some have different height blocks. Just make sure you check the height of blocks-cross sill-bracket combination and it should be 4", same as the rear sill mounting bracket. Adjust the wood blocks accordingly. If you use the rubber pads, they should be placed at all bed mounting points.

Mar-Ktech

Re: 51 3104 Spacer Blocks
tinnerjohn #1240964 Fri Oct 27 2017 02:27 PM
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,663
S
Shop Shark
Yes I did this as per your recommendation and it all came out fine. I used the Jim Carter blocks and insulators and ended up running the blocks through the table saw, cut them down from 2-5/16 to 2" even the fit correctly. People buy these kits thinking they should fit, when your straight edge (notice I didn't say leveling , because it isn't really other than side to side) is a great idea.

Last edited by sstock; Fri Oct 27 2017 02:28 PM.

1953 Chevrolet 3100
261 cu inch, sm420, 3.55 rear, torque tube still,omaha orange, still 6 volt, RPO green glass, side carrier spare, all done
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bli...n05i04t1aokgm4p04jiwgffwhyyih5xbk0h00410
1964 GMC 1000
305 Big Block V6, sm420, the next cab off restoration
Re: 51 3104 Spacer Blocks
tinnerjohn #1241025 Sat Oct 28 2017 12:58 AM
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 409
M
Shop Shark
By the way, the wood blocks with the offset hole go under the cross sill nearest the rear sill. The bolt hole in the frame at that cross sill position is not in the center of the frame mounting flange but is closer to the outboard side. With the offset hole in the block the block sits directly over the frame rail. You can use a block there with the hole in the center, it just makes the block hang over the outer edge of the frame. Not a big problem functionally. Also, notice that on an original cross sill the bracket attached to the bottom of that cross sill has its hole offset as well.

Mar-Ktech

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