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Original radiator or new? #1238943
Thu Oct 12 2017 01:56 PM
Thu Oct 12 2017 01:56 PM
P
Paul's53chevy  Offline OP
Shop Shark
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 212
Nebraska
Not sure if this should be in engines or general, so I'll start here.

My radiator ('53 3600) will be about $325 to fix up new according to a shop I trust.

I know in a catalog I saw, that that's not too far off from a new one. This is the original radiator, and I'm putting a '56-'57 235 in the truck.

Is there a specific advantage to using the original (other than to keep it original) or would a new one be even better? With the cost I'm not sure if one's especially better than the other. Ideas?


'53 Chevy 3604 Five Window Cab ('56 235)
Re: Original radiator or new? [Re: Paul's53chevy] #1238952
Thu Oct 12 2017 02:56 PM
Thu Oct 12 2017 02:56 PM
J
Joe H  Offline
Shop Shark
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 4,176
Lee's Summit Mo. 64086
I ran an original recored radiator for years in my '37. After about a year or two I saw antifreeze around the top tank. I had it repaired and went for a year or so again and same thing happened. I soldered it this time. After the third time taking it out, I replaced it with a new aluminum. This solved all the leaking and let me run a much higher PSI cap. The original radiator top tank was made from brass which was very thin. Every time I drove the truck I would head the tank "pop" when it was heating up for the first time The pop was the tank expanding from heating coolant and the solder joints just couldn't handle it. I had as much money in the new core and repairs as I did in the purchase of the new radiator.

Re: Original radiator or new? [Re: Paul's53chevy] #1239008
Fri Oct 13 2017 01:37 AM
Fri Oct 13 2017 01:37 AM
E
EdPruss  Online
Shop Shark
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,067
Longmont, CO
Have to make sure to only use the original PSI rated pressure cap on old radiator, 4 or 7 psi.

Ed

Re: Original radiator or new? [Re: Paul's53chevy] #1239025
Fri Oct 13 2017 04:03 AM
Fri Oct 13 2017 04:03 AM
H
Hotrod Lincoln  Online
Boltergeist
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 16,086
Dellrose, TN
Have the heater core replaced with a higher pressure rated one, run the modern radiator, and you'll be able to run a pressure cap in the 14-17 PSI range without a problem. That will eliminate any coolant loss whatsoever, particularly if you also run a small recovery tank. A 15 lb. cap raises the boiling point of the coolant to 257 degrees, far higher than a stovebolt engine ever gets during normal running. The water jacket and cylinder head handles the pressure easily- - - -the heater core is the limiting factor.
Jerry


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Re: Original radiator or new? [Re: Paul's53chevy] #1239034
Fri Oct 13 2017 10:47 AM
Fri Oct 13 2017 10:47 AM
truckernix  Offline
Master Gabster
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,000
Bracebridge Ontario Canada
I had the original in my 51 re-cored. They told me that it wouldn't look exactly the same but would provide more cooling than the original core. they were right. I am very happy with it.


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Re: Original radiator or new? [Re: Paul's53chevy] #1239065
Fri Oct 13 2017 02:59 PM
Fri Oct 13 2017 02:59 PM
Achipmunk  Offline
Boltergeist
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 16,024
Boiling Springs, S. C. 29316
Bought an original from JCarter several years ago (desert cooler)? and I have ran it with a 305 in my panel for several years and with a high pressure cap. It may bite me in the butt one day but so far so good.....and that included it running hot one night when I had forgotten to tighten up the ground wire on the electric fan after some adjustments.
Everyone's results may not be the same as mine!


1937 Chevy Pickup
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Re: Original radiator or new? [Re: Paul's53chevy] #1239203
Sat Oct 14 2017 01:08 PM
Sat Oct 14 2017 01:08 PM
P
Paul's53chevy  Offline OP
Shop Shark
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 212
Nebraska
Well, I decided to go with a new radiator, found a new one for a couple hundred (if that), so my cousin calls the shop since he's going to be around there to tell them he's going to stop and pick up my old radiator. Turns out they already started working on it! Long story short, they agreed it was their fault and said they'd do it for $250 (and described how well they'd do it and how it would take more pressure and they'd guarantee it, etc...). So I'm going with the old one.


'53 Chevy 3604 Five Window Cab ('56 235)

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