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Engine Removal #1234492
Tue Sep 12 2017 09:56 PM
Tue Sep 12 2017 09:56 PM
K
kthomas  Offline OP
Shop Shark
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 173
Webb City, Missouri
Guys,

I would like some opinions here please. I may possibly be looking at an engine overhaul on my 235 that is in my restored 54 Chevy truck. I am going to run a compression test and leak down test first to check the engine's health but if I have to end up pulling the engine, I don't want to damage paint, etc.

So, should I remove the front clip, or just the grille, radiator and core support and pull the engine out the front?

Thanks in advance!

Kevin

Re: Engine Removal [Re: kthomas] #1234494
Tue Sep 12 2017 10:03 PM
Tue Sep 12 2017 10:03 PM
tclederman  Online
Boltergeist
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 27,703
Jarvisburg, NC
That is what we did with my Suburban - I think that we also removed the hood.


Tim
1954Advance-Design.com
1954 3106 Carryall Suburban - part of the family for 47 years
1954 3104 5-window pickup w/Hydra-Matic
Z-series (54/55) GMC 350 (2-ton) COE
- If you have to stomp on your foot-pedal starter, either you, or your starter, or your engine, has a problem.
- The 216 and early 235 engine are not "splash oilers" - this is a splash oiler.
Re: Engine Removal [Re: kthomas] #1234525
Wed Sep 13 2017 12:05 AM
Wed Sep 13 2017 12:05 AM
K
kthomas  Offline OP
Shop Shark
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 173
Webb City, Missouri
Thanks Tim,

So you removed the front clip, or grill, radiator and core support ?

Kevin

Re: Engine Removal [Re: kthomas] #1234533
Wed Sep 13 2017 12:32 AM
Wed Sep 13 2017 12:32 AM
tclederman  Online
Boltergeist
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 27,703
Jarvisburg, NC
The radiator and radiator housing/support was removed as one piece. I think we removed this first, and I think it was tricky because I dimly recall the top-edges of the radiator support was "intertwined" with the inner/outer fender.

The fenders (inner&outer) and grill was removed as one piece (very slowly/carefully).

I think we removed them in that order.

It is a two person job; and, three people would make it safer.


Tim
1954Advance-Design.com
1954 3106 Carryall Suburban - part of the family for 47 years
1954 3104 5-window pickup w/Hydra-Matic
Z-series (54/55) GMC 350 (2-ton) COE
- If you have to stomp on your foot-pedal starter, either you, or your starter, or your engine, has a problem.
- The 216 and early 235 engine are not "splash oilers" - this is a splash oiler.
Re: Engine Removal [Re: kthomas] #1234559
Wed Sep 13 2017 02:08 AM
Wed Sep 13 2017 02:08 AM
5
52Carl  Offline
Master Gabster
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,742
Virginia
I would remove the entire front clip as a unit. You will have less chance of damaging paint. There are just too many fasteners which are difficult to get to in order to give you room to pull the engine. There is information that indicates that GM assembled the entire front clip as a unit off of the truck, then installed this unit on the truck.

Re: Engine Removal [Re: kthomas] #1234586
Wed Sep 13 2017 08:16 AM
Wed Sep 13 2017 08:16 AM
T
tomctomc  Offline
Shop Shark
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 853
Northeast Massachusetts
i'm going to go the opposite way. i'd leave the clip on. i think there is more of a chance to damage the paint trying to remove the entire clip and then there is the whole panel gap/alignment problem when its time to go back together. I've removed a half dozen engines in my life and never took off a front clip to do it. Seems like way more work than necessary.

you have to take off the hood, go slow, have helpers, and put towels/fender protectors on anything you think you might hit or scratch. did I mention GO SLOW?

Clearly both ways have been done by many so you'll have to choose the method you are most comfortable with.

Re: Engine Removal [Re: kthomas] #1234588
Wed Sep 13 2017 10:43 AM
Wed Sep 13 2017 10:43 AM
truckernix  Offline
Master Gabster
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,057
Bracebridge Ontario Canada
When I do something like this, as I did with my 38 Master, I put green painter's tape along all the edges that are going to move, relative to their surroundings. Painter's tape is easier to remove after.


1951 GMC 1 Ton Flatbed -- It is finally on the road and what a great time I have driving it!
1951 1 Ton Completed


My Chevy Master 4 Door is on the Road!
Re: Engine Removal [Re: kthomas] #1234693
Thu Sep 14 2017 12:59 AM
Thu Sep 14 2017 12:59 AM
K
kthomas  Offline OP
Shop Shark
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 173
Webb City, Missouri
Thanks everyone for your replies!

Truckernix, I definitely concur on using lots of green painters tape!

tomctomc, roger that on covering everything possible! The last thing I want to do, is damage the paint on my truck.

Kevin

Re: Engine Removal [Re: kthomas] #1234717
Thu Sep 14 2017 08:56 AM
Thu Sep 14 2017 08:56 AM
C
coilover  Offline
Shop Shark
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,618
Plano, Tx
If your 54 was at our shop we'd guarantee no paint damage if the front clip was pulled but absolutely no guarantee if left in place. It is silly NOT to pull it to where it is completely away from any dropped tools, belt buckles, 600# engine swinging around, dangling chains, etc. I've seen dozens of trucks with the core support top cut out to clear a pulled engine. To pull with everything in place you first must have lift chain centered to move engine forward off the transmission and then re-position it to lift engine out almost vertically---all the while threatening a paint job. With the clip off just lift a couple inches till rear mounts clear and get out of the way, it's coming out. We can EASILY pull a front clip in 30 minutes and when loose have a helper and yourself take hold of it with one hand under the head light ring and the other in the center of the wheel opening as this gives perfect balance. Move just a little forward to clear cowl paint and then raise WAY up for inner fender to clear everything. The fender curves in under the cowl so watch this. For sheet metal and hood alignment we have no problem but some drill an 1/8" hole in each panel and then align with an 1/8" pin when re-installing so everything is in the exact position as before. A dab of dum dum seals these holes. Have a 52 and 57 Chevy pickup (V8's), a 40 Packard (engine overhaul), and a 37 Buick (a/c components) sitting without clips right now so no paint damage is going to happen to any of them.


Evan
Re: Engine Removal [Re: kthomas] #1234722
Thu Sep 14 2017 11:12 AM
Thu Sep 14 2017 11:12 AM
tclederman  Online
Boltergeist
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 27,703
Jarvisburg, NC
Amen, and Thank You, coilover,

One of my assistants was a friend/neighbor, and the other was a friend/professional mechanic/painter (whom I paid by the hour). They were skeptical of my decision, but the pro had formerly helped with a more tradional upwards lift (with only hood, radiator/housing removed).

We spend much less than 1/2 the installation/re-installation time (engine AND sheet metal), and we spent no $$$ hours dealing with paint chips from assembly/disassembly of front grill parts/etc (1954 trucks).

Two careful people are needed for this technique, and three people are better (my third person was cheap insurance: he was a careful neighbor who took instructions and did not even accept one beer after the job (we put up with the bad jokes he told during the job).


Tim
1954Advance-Design.com
1954 3106 Carryall Suburban - part of the family for 47 years
1954 3104 5-window pickup w/Hydra-Matic
Z-series (54/55) GMC 350 (2-ton) COE
- If you have to stomp on your foot-pedal starter, either you, or your starter, or your engine, has a problem.
- The 216 and early 235 engine are not "splash oilers" - this is a splash oiler.

Moderated by  53moneypit, Woogeroo 

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