There should not be a need to take it apart.
Also, you will void warranty. Just do a continuity test on each wire and learn how it's wired.
As Beltfed said, In one section of the block, one side of the fuses are on a always hot, hot bar, and the other side of each fuse goes to components. On another section the hot bar (ganged side) is switched to be hot and the other sides of each fuse goes to component switches. (usual way, but again you need to buzz it out to see how it's wired). Chances are you are not realizing how to wire it. Look at instruction again. Forget how you think it's wired and read more carefully.
The always-hot circuits are usually headlight switch, brake lights, horn..... things that a person wants to be operative without key on.
The switched-to-be-hot circuits are all the other components like heater switch, radio, wiper switch, coil, etc.
Switched-to-be-on means the ignition switch "ON". The ignition switch turns on a bank of fuses ONLY when the ignition switch is "ON"
It would be more helpful if you would state which fuses "don't work".
I read the EZ Wire instruction/diagrams just now on line. The worst diagrams I have ever seen. Many shapes are not identified. There is no cohesive schematic. Piece meal, hard to read, childish presentation. Childish drawings. click
I know, eventually you can figure it out, but being concise, clear, flowing and easy to read is what is called for on a DIY product. Not instructions and drawings that make sense to the moron who is writing/drawing them. The art of conveying information takes a certain expertise, as you can see by my posts.
Scroll thru This
very slowly to see how a professional does a DIY kit. See any difference? Notice on the third sheet, the always hot bank and the switched hot bank in the fuse panel.