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Re: Diff leaking after 3.55 R & P swap
nospark #1187160 Mon Oct 17 2016 08:58 PM
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 22
N
nospark Offline OP
New Guy
Showkey: He replaced some of the studs, and said that the new ones were not very tight. (I asked him why he kept going???)
I have not taken anything apart, but it really looks to be coming from around a couple of studs.

simplex: I have read Deves procedure, and it leaves the third member in place.

HRL: Yes, that is why I am here asking questions. Just hoping to avoid that option.

The leak is not that bad, but I wouldn't want to park it on someones nice concrete drive for very long for fear of staining it.



52 3100
Re: Diff leaking after 3.55 R & P swap
nospark #1187254 Tue Oct 18 2016 06:49 AM
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,154
W
Shop Shark
Yep...Jerry is correct. It's a very complicated set-up to do correctly. Look for a shop in your area that specializes in 4WD Jeeps and or Rock Crawlers those guys are always swapping differential gears. Listen to Jerry he has the real wrench experience and knowledge. It will save you bucks in the long run.

Re: Diff leaking after 3.55 R & P swap
nospark #1187297 Tue Oct 18 2016 04:03 PM
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 22
N
nospark Offline OP
New Guy
Who, Me: I checked with every R & P shop in the Sacramento area, none were interested in doing the work.
By the way the guy that did the work is in your neighborhood, about 75 miles from me.
If you know of a shop in Sacramento area, that is competent please pass on the info to me.

Bob.


52 3100
Re: Diff leaking after 3.55 R & P swap
nospark #1188839 Sun Oct 30 2016 06:53 PM
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 564
S
Shop Shark
Just finished this same job..........think the the rear end housing can get bent by the tight fit of the third memeber.

Wrestling or being heavy handed with the member in and out could damage the mounting surface. The threads on the member mounting studs can also be damaged by this extremely tight fit. I nicked two studs but lucky the threads could still be chased. Chasing the threads after install is also challenging as the space around the bottom mounting studs is limited. I used the split nut trick to chase the threads.

In short the member install is a PIA. The next time I might consider pulling the entire rear end....... spring shackles, bleeding brakes and E brake cables are by far easier work than wresting the 3rd member while under the truck.

Last edited by showkey; Sun Oct 30 2016 07:22 PM.
Re: Diff leaking after 3.55 R & P swap
nospark #1188844 Sun Oct 30 2016 09:05 PM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 7,251
B
General Purpose
You are getting good answers and answering your own question.

My take on it:
1. No one but yourself left to work on it.
2. Sounds like a whole bunch of work, possibly. "It's a very complicated set-up to do correctly."
3. Sounds like you may NOT fix it and it may still leak after awhile.
4. If it operates quietly and does not leak too much, leave it alone! wait awhile and see how much it bothers you and how nice the new ratio is.
5. If those have been known to leak, others have had to find and fix all kinds of causes.... It ain't the differential for me.
6. Switch it someday. Original is sometimes not worth saving. The more modern diffs do not have any problems like that at all!!!! and every shop in NorCal will work on them.
7. You could find out, after much work and expense, that this yay-hoo damaged something bad and he knows it. He may have tried the "Permatex/Loc Tite fixes" already. That's why he is being an axehole now. "Showkey: He replaced some of the studs, and said that the new ones were not very tight. (I asked him why he kept going???)". What if it's unfixable? Then you are dead in the driveway!
8. Buy a drip pan.
9. After being on Stovebolt for 11 years, one thing I've learned is that if I ever buy an AD I will convert to open driveshaft and associated differential in a New York minute.
10. Don't forget there is a critical break-in procedure for your diff. Follow it. Peace.
http://www.differentials.com/technical-help/ring-pinion-gear-break-procedure


I'm away on an ego trip. Will be back on Feb 30.
I'm not an Auto Mechanic, but I play one on TV.
I charge $0.02 for every opinion and I take Paypal.
Plan B is always better than plan A, by definition.


Re: Diff leaking after 3.55 R & P swap
nospark #1188864 Mon Oct 31 2016 12:01 AM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 7,251
B
General Purpose
Disclaimer: I do not know the exact design of this differential. If the studs were used so that the install weight was held until nut were tightened, that's OK. and if they also align the 3rd member (drop out) that's OK. However, when a person has a leaky stud, if that's what is really leaking, I don't know what that means. Is it leaking around the threads that hold the stud to the housing (banjo)? Are they leaking thru the 3rd member clearance hole at nut? Is the leak at the crack/gasket? You gotta be REAL sure of what is leaking.
Normally when you have a stud that receives a nut, the stud should have interference threads (NC-5 CSF) into the part. So that they don't turn during nut torque off. Whatever the case, would it not be easier to take out the few leaky studs, fix/chase/rethread (to any thread) the threaded holes, open up the few 3rd member flange clearance holes involved and use bolts there?
Also, since you are not messing with the gear setup Mr. Yay-hoo did, taking the 3rd member out does not seem to difficult after reading Sweets tip. But after you are sure there is no noise or other problem. Otherwise Mr. Yay-hoo will say "you took it apart, I won't be responsible".
Anyway, this would allow for repair of threads, etc. if you are so inclined as others have said. I have now said don't mess with it and mess with it. Schizo. (Which also can be called deep concentration, research and reflection regarding all options.)


I'm away on an ego trip. Will be back on Feb 30.
I'm not an Auto Mechanic, but I play one on TV.
I charge $0.02 for every opinion and I take Paypal.
Plan B is always better than plan A, by definition.


Re: Diff leaking after 3.55 R & P swap
nospark #1188873 Mon Oct 31 2016 01:09 AM
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 564
S
Shop Shark
Break in ????? Any body ever break in there diff on a brand new car or truck ? Think 99.999% of people just get in and drive.

Last edited by showkey; Mon Oct 31 2016 01:18 AM.
Re: Diff leaking after 3.55 R & P swap
nospark #1188874 Mon Oct 31 2016 01:16 AM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 30,126
ace skiver
When we changed the R&P from 3.90 to 3.55 and replaced all seals, bushings and bearings, we just started it up and ran it. It was/is very quiet.

We never went through any break-in procedure. Maybe my ignorance/luck has caused no problems?


Tim
1954Advance-Design.com [1954advance-design.com]
1954 3106 Carryall Suburban [stovebolt.com] - part of the family for 49 years
1954 3104 5-window pickup w/Hydra-Matic [1954advance-design.com] - part of the family for 15 years
- If you have to stomp on your foot-pedal starter, either you, or your starter, or your engine, has a problem.
- The 216 and early 235 engines are not "splash oilers" - this is a splash oiler. [chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com]
Re: Diff leaking after 3.55 R & P swap
nospark #1188876 Mon Oct 31 2016 01:22 AM
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,154
W
Shop Shark
Yes....a great shop one guy Tyler at Geared -UP in Grass Valley. He is a super pro and is very diligent and not full of bull a straight shooter. He did our swap and our truck was a very hard job to accomplish as the PO was a mix and mis-match type of guy. From day one until 100 miles no noise or leaks. At 500 miles I'll go back for a diff oil change. No one else wanted to even try to fix our truck but I head about him through 4-WD club he does a lot of work for them and the county.

Re: Diff leaking after 3.55 R & P swap
nospark #1188900 Mon Oct 31 2016 03:49 AM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 7,251
B
General Purpose
The break in is mostly for towing on new trucks and it's in the manual not to tow before 1000 mi usually. If you want to tow or plow snow or other stress before that, it's up to you. These trucks have EDR Event Data Recording and they would check it if you brought it in for repairs. There are ways to detect loads and possibly when connector was used. Other than that we do just get in and drive.

All of the major gear MFG and sellers have this same warning I linked. Leaning towards towing but it says do the procedure and "Failure to properly break-in a new gear set can be identified by inspection, and may void the manufacturer’s warranty."

All this is up to the owner/buyer. Just wanted to inform that it is part of the "warranty". The gears will be soft annealed (lose hardness) if over heated. They must heat and cool a few times in the oil of the diff. until "broke in". (I.E. work harden under normal road load)

The gears in new trucks will be of higher quality (tolerance) than aftermarket.
My 1997 F150 has 275,000 mi. Still running on orig transmission, transfer case, differential. Chevy and Dodge will have same quality gears or better.


I'm away on an ego trip. Will be back on Feb 30.
I'm not an Auto Mechanic, but I play one on TV.
I charge $0.02 for every opinion and I take Paypal.
Plan B is always better than plan A, by definition.


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