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#1114549 Sun Jul 19 2015 02:21 PM
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,851
B
Shop Shark
Is there any magic way to keep the knurled nut/collar from backing off? Also is there another material available for the seal other than cork? I cannot get this to stop leaking, I tighten up the collar, and after a 20 minute drive it is loose and leaking again. Thanks for any suggestions.

brokenhead #1114553 Sun Jul 19 2015 02:50 PM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 31,613
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Some threads on the topic:

Thread 1

Thread 2

Thread 3


Tim
1954Advance-Design.com [1954advance-design.com]
1954 3106 Carryall Suburban [stovebolt.com] - part of the family for 49 years
1954 3104 5-window pickup w/Hydra-Matic [1954advance-design.com] - part of the family for 15 years
- If you have to stomp on your foot-pedal starter, either you, or your starter, or your engine, has a problem.
- The 216 and early 235 engines are not "splash oilers" - this is a splash oiler. [chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com]
brokenhead #1114564 Sun Jul 19 2015 04:31 PM
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 873
F
'Bolter
This item has been mentioned in previous posts as a seal. I have not used it but it might be worth looking in to.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...h_N0243_-1_-1&pt=N0243&ppt=C0142


Ed
brokenhead #1114566 Sun Jul 19 2015 05:01 PM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 31,613
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Thanks, Ed

If anyone uses that seal, please report back on how well it works. Inquiring minds (with leaky seals, or who want to avoid leaky seals) want to know.


Tim
1954Advance-Design.com [1954advance-design.com]
1954 3106 Carryall Suburban [stovebolt.com] - part of the family for 49 years
1954 3104 5-window pickup w/Hydra-Matic [1954advance-design.com] - part of the family for 15 years
- If you have to stomp on your foot-pedal starter, either you, or your starter, or your engine, has a problem.
- The 216 and early 235 engines are not "splash oilers" - this is a splash oiler. [chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com]
brokenhead #1114575 Sun Jul 19 2015 06:21 PM
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 5,225
P
'Bolter
I have used the O-ring on many 1929-32's. They do not have an adjustable collar/nut, the seal is just crimped in place. It has worked well on those.


See the USA in your vintage Chevrolet!
My Blog [chev235guy.blogspot.com]
brokenhead #1115799 Sun Jul 26 2015 06:17 PM
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,851
B
Shop Shark
thanks for the responses...

brokenhead #1115808 Sun Jul 26 2015 07:33 PM
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 124
B
'Bolter
"Thread 1" above was mine. Loctite worked.


1953 Chevrolet 3104 1/2-Ton
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brokenhead #1116561 Fri Jul 31 2015 02:44 AM
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,405
O
'Bolter
Thank you. I have this problem since changing out my rear gears.


Dennis
-there is nothing stronger than the heart of a volunteer-
brokenhead #1116581 Fri Jul 31 2015 04:20 AM
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,509
J
Shop Shark
Below is a pic of a
1954 Chevrolet 3100 Hydra-Matic Ball Housing with Fresh Seals
If you look closely at the rear of the torque tube retainer threaded on ring.
The ball housing has about a inch of extra threads behind the torque tube retainer.
Why couldn't you screw on a large thin nut first to use as a locking nut to hold the torque tube retainer.
That's if you have a extra threads on the ball housing.

brokenhead #1117307 Tue Aug 04 2015 03:53 AM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 508
4
Shop Shark
Post your question over on the VCCA Chat site. Skip Gear (AKA Junk Yard Dog) Posted in the past about replacing the cork seal with an O-Ring which stopped most leaks from the Torque tube Bell fitting.


"If it ain't Steel it ain't Real"
"Earth the insane aslyum for the rest of the Universe"
41 1/2-ton, a work in progress
68 Shortbed stepside 327/325hp/700R4
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