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Gluing Patch Panels
#110780 Fri Apr 26 2002 04:46 PM
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 457
J
Shop Shark
First, just a comment to MARTINSR, THANKS for your "Basic" series, great info. grin

I've never welded and I don't have a welder. I'm intrigued by the little bit I have heard about using automotive body adhesives for attaching patch panels. Does anyone have links to more info on the subject or comments on the subject?


Jeff Nelson

"Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy." - Benjamin Franklin
"Always do right. This will gratify some people and astonish the rest." - Mark Twain
Re: Gluing Patch Panels
#110781 Fri Apr 26 2002 05:08 PM
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 57
R
Wrench Fetcher


Kelly
1951 Chevy 3100
1967 RS/SS Camaro
Re: Gluing Patch Panels
#110782 Mon Apr 29 2002 02:59 AM
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 431
B
Shop Shark
I have been considering using JB Weld to join patch panels on my truck. Has anyone ever done this? If so, how well did it work?


Ralph Davis
1970 Chevy C10 Webshots
My Stovebolt Gallery page

Old trucks never die, they just find a new home.
Re: Gluing Patch Panels
#110783 Fri May 03 2002 04:12 AM
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 45
C
Member
Hey guys. I would HIGHLY recommend Lord Fusor for gluing body panels. Its arguably the best stuff on the market. Not cheap at $35 a tube, but WELL worth it. Welding panels on is on its way out. With the new adhesives on the market, they're just as good if not better then welding. Head down to your local body shop supplier and ask 'em. They'll tell ya!

Chad


1955 Chevrolet 210 2 door Sedan
a 30,000 mile UNMOLESTED original, now my daily driver! Original 6 cylinder with a rebuilt '66-'69 Saginaw 3-speed Overdrive. Synchro low! Otherwise, everything original down to the spare tire. Interior is like new. Needs paint, but absolutely zero rust.
Re: Gluing Patch Panels
#110784 Fri May 03 2002 05:04 AM
A
Anonymous
Unregistered
I remember seeing an article dedicated to weldless body patches in " classic auto restorer " magazine.It covered all of the state of the are adhesives for body panel repair & replacement. I cant remember the issue #. Maybe someone out there can research the archives of this magazine.

Re: Gluing Patch Panels
#110785 Fri May 03 2002 03:29 PM
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,814
T
Member
I never heard of this. So, do you just glue the new panel right over the old one or is some of the old one removed like with welding?

I would think you are creating pockets for moisture to sit in between the two metals. Since the bottom metal is already rusted through it will quickly "infect" the new metal. I would think it won't last as long as a proper welded in panel. A welded panel is basically goes in place of the original metal with no nooks or crannies for rust to develop. Condensation etc won't have a place to live on a welded panel.


54 3100 with 235
62 flatbed dump C60 with 261
Re: Gluing Patch Panels
#110786 Fri May 03 2002 04:11 PM
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 457
J
Shop Shark
Tony,
No, you don't glue over the old. You treat it much as you do when you weld patch panels. Generally, you would cut out the old area. You then flange around the removed area and glue the new patch panel into the flanged area. I believe the manufacturers recommend that you use some flush type rivets to pull things together.


Jeff Nelson

"Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy." - Benjamin Franklin
"Always do right. This will gratify some people and astonish the rest." - Mark Twain
Re: Gluing Patch Panels
#110787 Fri May 03 2002 04:39 PM
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 11
F
Member
Certainly Tony M's concerns are valid. But I know there are shops doing this.

My fleetside bed looked like someone had used the one side for cannonball practice. I decided this would be a good place to try this method. I bought the rear bedside panel (goes from end cap to center of wheel well, and from bottom to seam approx 8" from top of bed rail. Also bought the front that goes from center of wheel well all the way up to the back of the cab.

At the back of the cab I left about a 3" strip of the bedside up to the seam the same down the the length of the bed along that seam to the tailight end cap. I separated the the spot welds holding the end cap to the bed side since the panel I received included that flange. Basically, I cut the whole bedside out including the wheel well, leaving a 3" frame.

Using the duramix system, after trimming and prefitting the panels, I glued the the panels at the top, the whole length of the bed, butt welded the seam above the wheel well and spot welded the tailight end cap to the rear flange of the rear panel.

When I look along the backsides of the panel, the duramix had oozed out along the seam the length of the bed, so I don't expect moisture to reak havoc-I painted the back of the panels with por-15 for extra peace of mind. wink

Will I do it again? I think so. I had very nice Schott panels to work with that were very straight. If I had had to weld that seam the length of the bed, they would have no longer been straight, I can tell you that!

I can't tell you how it will hold up because the truck isn't finished and hasn't seen any "road flex"...


63 K10 Fleet 454
Re: Gluing Patch Panels
#110788 Wed May 08 2002 11:08 PM
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 40
B
Member
I've used both the Fusor brand and 3-M and they both seem to work fine . The 3-M stuff will set up a bit quicker with a little heat so when I glued on the bed pockets too the new sides, I clamped it all and then spot welded the edges (just incase) . I used Fusor on some patch's on the cab and for the 14 gauge firewall cap. This smoothed off the firewall with very little filler and no distortion from heat . BTW , this stuff is moisture resistant so rust shouldnt start at the seam , try it !


Moderated by  HandyAndy, klhansen 

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