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#1057489 Sat Sep 20 2014 07:56 PM
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,888
J
Jim Bow Offline OP
'Bolter
I have a 1928 house with cedar siding. Where some of the boards are butt jointed, the joints are filled with caulk. It's in pretty bad shape. Is this the right way to do it? Should I dig out the old caulk and replace it?


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Jim Bow #1057497 Sat Sep 20 2014 09:21 PM
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 9,496
Ex Hall Monitor
That's the least desirable type of joint. The calk will eventually fail and when it does there's no backup to prevent water infiltration. A better way is a calked Scarf Joint with a piece of roofing felt behind it. When (not IF) the calking fails it's harder for the water to defeat the joint plus the felt will stop any that does defeat the joint. The scarf doesn't need to be as radical as shown in the link I posted. A 45 degree should do just fine.

Last edited by Tiny; Sat Sep 20 2014 09:24 PM.

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Jim Bow #1057499 Sat Sep 20 2014 09:34 PM
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,888
J
Jim Bow Offline OP
'Bolter
Yeah, Tiny but . . . the siding has been in place for 80+ years. I don't think scarfing is a solution.


"Happiness equals reality minus expectations" - Tom Magliozzi
Jim Bow #1057507 Sat Sep 20 2014 11:02 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,159
M
'Bolter
I would say yes. You may have to replace some rot. You may also find some ugliness beneath the siding. Whenever you touch something on an old house it usually leads to some new adventure to fix.


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Jim Bow #1057519 Sat Sep 20 2014 11:52 PM
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 9,496
Ex Hall Monitor
JB you asked if a butt joint is the right way to do it and I answered. If you don't want to pull a lot of siding & do it right about the only option is to re-calk using good calking.


Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet.
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Jim Bow #1057546 Sun Sep 21 2014 02:32 AM
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,888
J
Jim Bow Offline OP
'Bolter
Tiny,
After your post I started thinking. When they built this old house they mitered every corner of the siding. If they went to all that trouble, they would have also scarfed the boards where they came together. I took a closer look (remember, there's 80 years of paint) and sure enough, I found the scarf joints. Nice and tight. There's only two butt joints, on two different boards. Must have been a bad repair job sometime in the past.
Maybe I will go ahead and try better permanent fix.

Thanks for shifting my brain into first.


"Happiness equals reality minus expectations" - Tom Magliozzi
Jim Bow #1057593 Sun Sep 21 2014 12:46 PM
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 9,496
Ex Hall Monitor
No charge. grin grin


Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet.
The three main causes of blindness: Cataracts, Politics, Religion.
Let's go Jared!
Name your dog Naked so you can walk Naked in the park.
Jim Bow #1058499 Thu Sep 25 2014 06:11 PM
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 263
P
Shop Shark
Anybody know where I can get some 10" cedar siding. I need to replace some, but all I can find is 8".


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Jim Bow #1058504 Thu Sep 25 2014 06:32 PM
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,860
F
Extreme Gabster
probably need to talk to your local lumber yards



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Jim Bow #1058520 Thu Sep 25 2014 08:38 PM
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,450
S
'Bolter
I always put 45s on my cedar joints and now our code also calls for rain screen. I don't know if you have this in your area. I just finished my shop last year and here is how it's layered. It goes framing, sheathing, house rap, rain screen (which is 1/2" X 2" treated plywood strips) that is nailed on 16" spacing and around windows and doors so that here is a 1/2 gap between your siding and sheathing. That way if any moisture gets in it flows out the bottom that is open except for mesh that keeps the bugs out. Jim Bow if you have just a couple of boards it wouldn't be too much work to replace them. If you don't replace I would definitely put something like an aluminum flashing as wide as possible and under the joint and also under the board above the splice.


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