The Stovebolt Page Forums Home | FAQ | Forum | Swap Meet | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Helping out ...


Check in for status!

Jump over to the Events Forum, to post events -- new ones or the ones we have been enjoying for some time.
Look to see what's been cancelled or postponed.

Encourage one another!

Stovebolt Site Search
Old Truck Calendars
Months of truck photos!
Nothing like an old truck calendar

Stovebolt Calendars

Check for details!

Who's Online Now
18 members (clarsen3100, Chev4t6, dougs, DougH6100, buoymaker, 1 invisible), 210 guests, and 3 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Most Online1,229
Jan 21st, 2020
Image Posting Policy
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Page 2 of 4 1 2 3 4
Re: Botched project re-rusted.
#105281 Tue Oct 05 2004 12:46 AM
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 187
Shop Shark
I have found that using spray cans works pretty good for the smaller projects, like the engine hoist and tow bar I fabricated. I, too, blasted the metal clean and then used aerosol paints for the finish. I would apply 4-5 light coats of primer, waiting about 10 minutes in between each coat to allow the paint to "setup" (but not dry). I'd then wait until the primer was completely dry before beginning the same sequence using the final color. On both projects the finish came out great (even though they are destined to get beat up with useage). Just my 2 cents on the topic, but I think there are better products available for the larger projects and I plan to do a lot of research for my C60 project.


Thanks for the description of how aerosol paints work. I liked the analogy to the screens wink wink


1964 Chevy C60 w/ Garwood dump, 327 CID, New Process 540C 5-Speed w/ Chevy 15,000 lb. 2-speed rear axle
1966 Chevy C60 w/ 292 CID, Chevy 4-speed w/ Chevy 15,000 lb. single speed rear axle

Burgie's 1964 Chevy C60 Restoration Site
Re: Botched project re-rusted.
#105282 Fri Oct 08 2004 04:50 AM
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 16
Junior Member
Well, I guess the good news is that I came here before I tried the same thing again! The bad news is that I don't have the slightest idea how to buy, mix, thin, spray, etc. "real" paint. I guess I've got a LOT of research to do.

Thanks all, I'll surely have more questions later!


Stranded in time. Surrounded by evil. Low on gas...
Re: Botched project re-rusted.
#105283 Mon Oct 11 2004 05:17 PM
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 198
Mixing the professional paints is no big deal, if you get the proper measuring stick, you just fill the paint to the proper line, then add the reducer to the next line, then the hardener last.

Re: Botched project re-rusted.
#105284 Tue Oct 12 2004 04:04 AM
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 16
Junior Member
I've never even used a "real" spayer!!

The biggest thing will be re-thinking the entire project though. Without the option of blasting a few feet of frame or a control arm etc. in the evening and hitting the fresh metal with primer I'll have to really do some careful planning.

Stranded in time. Surrounded by evil. Low on gas...
Re: Botched project re-rusted.
#105285 Tue Oct 12 2004 04:19 AM
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 164
Shop Shark
There is an aerosol product on the market that will do what you need and I would be happy to discuss it with you off list if you'd care to and it is available in Canada.
The product is Zero Rust.
The web site is
My email is
Thanks Bruce Palmer

PS: Burgie, ZR is akin to closing the window, to keep the screen analogy going........

Re: Botched project re-rusted.
#105286 Tue Oct 12 2004 04:52 AM
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,090
Shop Shark
You can get "real" paint mixed and put into a rattlecan spray gun. It costs quite a bit though. It's just like anything else, you get what you pay for.
Just my 2 cents worth,

Scott Ward

2 1948 1.5-ton Loadmasters
The red one and The snow pusher
1 1950 3100
1 1955.1 Chevy 6500
1 1954 Chevy 6500 2-Ton
1 1955 1st Series COE 5700
1 1963 K20 (454)
1 1964 C10 (350)
1 1951 1.5-ton Dump Truck
1953 and a 1956 Ford F800

Raising a teenager is like trying to nail Jello to a tree!
Re: Botched project re-rusted.
#105287 Wed Dec 01 2004 04:28 AM
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 256
Custom Title
In 1997 I restored my '55 Willys CJ5 Jeep. The frame was REALLY rusty. I wire wheeled it down, then used Marine Primer on it. I forget what the stuff was called but it's weird light gray color and pretty thick. I just brushed it on, but it looks like I sprayed it. For a top coat I just used gloss black Rust-Oleum. It still looks fantastic to this day. I don't know what that primer is made of, but it's indestructible. I had a brake fluid leak that stripped all the paint of an area, but it didn't even soften the primer. I was amazed. I suggest going to the local paint store and ask them to reccomend some kind of high quality marine grade primer. When you get it home, brush it on so you know it's on there nice and thick. Worked good for me

49 Chevy 3600 Restoration project
48 International KB-1 Service Truck
55 Willys CJ5 - Chevy 331 powered
70 Tucker Sno-Cat 442-A
96 Dodge 3500 Cummins dually flatbed x-cab 4x4
06 Jeep Wrangler LJ rock crawler
If you can't fix it with a hammer, it's an electrical problem
Re: Botched project re-rusted.
#105288 Wed Dec 01 2004 08:05 AM
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 991
You can get pretty decent rust control primer in the Duplcolor (sp?) brand at most automotive stores. The rattle cans have a fan nozzle and you can lay it on almost as good as a gun...


It ain't the same as using a compressor and a real gun. My whole truck is painted in Zero Rust Safety red, white and black. (White on grill, black on frame) Done last year, sits in the weather and looks fine, except, I used their Crystal Coat clear which sprayed on thin, ran like crazy, and is now hazing up. I can't recommend it even when following their instructions to the letter. Or mebe I am just stupid with their clear, however, the ZR and everything else I have painted came out fine.

Zero Rust does come in rattle cans and I have used it on stuff and it works good. No rust through yet. Also you might also prep before primer with Phosoric Acid (Called Phosphoro, snake oil, etc etc) as it converts/ends rusting. It looks like green water and is fairly mild. Brush on, let dry, wipe with tack rag, shoot primer.

You can also brush or roll ZR on, and it lays down pretty good, but not the same as spraying.

If you are worried about the look of your running gear, I'd get a number of ZR cans of rattle black and have at it. ZR supposedly doesn't like the sun, but running gear rarely sees the sun.

Re: Botched project re-rusted.
#105289 Wed Dec 01 2004 03:03 PM
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 164
Shop Shark
As long as this thread has floated to the surface again -- There is an excellent discussion on this subject at on the forum. Input from users mainly, which is what most of you would like to read anyway, right?
Bruce Palmer

Re: Botched project re-rusted.
#105290 Wed Dec 01 2004 10:31 PM
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 179
Shop Shark
Question for Bruce.....Where is Zero Rust available in Canada???

Answer to Jim's Rust Problem in Hamilton......move South where they do not use road salt.....hahaha

I am located near Ottawa where they pcikle the road bed 4 hours before the snow starts just in case of.....

It is expensive and hard to work with but I have used POR 15 and have had good results......BUT... you must follow instructions to the letter. I believe that tere are to parts to the success of POR 15..... you must etch your metal with Phosphoric acid... a mild pre-paint wash... that converts the top layeer of the steel to iron phosphate which partly isolates the inside layers of steel.... and POR is not a paint but a "coating" highly deadly in a spray form but easily painted on... or for the brave souls... spayred on in an outside setting witha good mask. It actually hardenens with humidity in the air..... best way to describe it is a crazy glue coating with black pigment added. You hae to totally cover yourself has ANY over spray will require two weeks to wear off your skin.

I have done wheels that needed a "kneedle guns" to remove the rust and followed by sandblasting followed by an acid wash.... degreasing wash followed by a special binder coat(POR is so slick pintg willnot stfik to it with the binder coat) followed by 3 coats of army paint..... even mounting the tires on the wheels failed to remove more than the top layers of army paint.

Buy a small can and do your own tests... it is expensive and hard to work with....but I am please with it.....

PS... I do not sell the stuff and have no shares in the company... I only wish I had..

Doing a ground up on a CDN CPM 1940 Chev 4X4 right hand drive orphan.....

Bob C.

Bob C.
CMP Heaven
The Hammond Barn
Page 2 of 4 1 2 3 4

Moderated by  HandyAndy, klhansen 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Forum | Swap Meet | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.4