My partner has some salvage cars from that era. Cars & 1/2 ton trucks from that era use the same parts. You can call him at 816-507-4811. His name is John. Or e-mail me with a phone # & I can have him call you.
It may work. The length of the linkage is longer on the later transmission. Measure what you have, then measure linkage on the truck transmission came from. Sometimes you have to get creative when you start mixing parts and pieces.
Martin, I have to disagree with you on this one. They are not easy to get. Well, one of them is not anyway.
I've been searching for those exact two parts that WMDischar is referring to, except mine are for a 1951. He should have Huck brakes, I have Bendix. You CAN find the Spreader Bar and Spring aftermarket, but you're not gonna find the Lever. Unless somebody is junking a rear-end that has those parts, I have not seen it available aftermarket. I even posted in the "Parts Wanted' section a while back, looking for these parts (mainly the Lever).....not the first response. With all the rear-end changing and swapping going on, I would have thought somebody would have had these parts.
If I had an old one to even look at, I would fabricate mine. But I have yet to get my hands on one.
WMDischar, not to discourage you, just letting you know what I have found (or not found in this case).
I know the parking brake is not critical, but I'm wanting everything to work as intended.
I just put mine together; here is the assembly sequence:
Install the hood on the cowl, springs and all. It's easier to do it first before the fenders are in the way. Leave hood in the up position. Mount the radiator support loosely onto its frame crossmember. Start out with about 1/4" rubber shims under the feet. Bolt the inner and outer fenders together OFF THE TRUCK. Install the inner and outer fenders onto the truck AS A UNIT. It will go lots easier (as I discovered the hard way). Install the large brackets between the radiator support and the outer edge of the fenders Install the lower front splash shield. Connect the rods between it and the radiator support. Install the grille. Install the hood latch panel between the grille and the radiator support. Install the radiator. Install front bumper and valance filler panel.
Mostly leave all bolts loose until you get everything assembled and adjusted. It almost seems as though Chevy designed these parts to fit under tension to prevent vibration. It helps to use several Phillips screwdrivers as pry bars to coax the various holes into alignment. Put a screwdriver through the mis-aligned holes and reef hard until you can get a bolt through or clamp with vice grips. Body bolts with threaded points are easier to get started too. Don't be afraid to enlarge or elongate holes to match up - after all, the factory did. And lastly: treat this information like gold: like you, I once searched extensively for this same question and never actually found the step-by-step answer so had to learn by trial and error ;-)
Restored 1949 Chevy 3600 with dump bed. Frame and wheels powder coated, rebuild dump cylinders. Extras that come with it, new spare tire, extra motor (original), extra transmission, lots of original parts, including bed wood, hubcaps, bumper, and lots more. Contact info Mike: firstname.lastname@example.org
Anyone got any idea where I could find a bearing with ID .75 inches and OD 1.9687?
Or.... if I got some machine shop buddies to make an adapter to get me to a usable ID, what do I tell them to make it out of? I figure if summit can use adapters in their kits, then maybe I could do the same...
If I could adapt a .8437 to .75 inches... I might be able to adapt the c10 rotor. First seeing if it's even possible to find parts to make it work. I'll need to strip the spindles and see about length fitment.
It's this or adapt what I think might be late 60s camaro rotors another guy used, just not sure if it was 60s camaro rotors....
Well, that bloody belt line dent proved too much for pulling. I burned up another couple hours fighting it so I zip cut that portion out and hammered a piece of steel into shape and welded it in. I should have done that to start and saved my time. Oh well, at least I’ll be happier with the end product knowing it’s fresh and clean. I have ground down some of the weld and it looks pretty good. A little filler will have it looking ship shape in the end. I wish I was skilled enough to not use filler at all but that’s beyond me.
Yup, good time was had by all. Thanks to Randy's dream we are having this show, we just follow along. Thanks to Dawn for putting up with us and thanks to all the people that brought trucks and chatted.
Jay, I realized what you meant, I will get into the one I removed and check the main shaft and bearings later on. I should have taken it apart when i changed the tail housing to an s-10 tail housing. When the cover was off everything looked nice, so didn't bother. Sometimes things come back to grab you by your backside.