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I did notice Steele's prices - ouch. Was why I tried to find an alternative and posted that one first.

I will see if I can locate and post more pics of the complete spare tire mount assembly. So far I could only find ones from same year Chevy trucks, but will see what I can find.

Give me a day or two and I will get back in here with results, good, bad or indifferent.

Dan

JW51,

As this was originally your thread, did we answer your question or are you looking for more info/feedback???

Appreciate if you would let us know so we can know what to do with the thread.

The conversation has kinda dwindled to another "Insurance" dead horse topic which we could add to till the cows come home, but it's pretty much already been said.

What say you sir!

Dan

From your most recent pictures, I don't see how that one valve rocker would be contacting the valve cover unless the valve cover may be dented or a bit deformed in that spot???

Can you show us the wear spot on the inside of the valve cover???

The circled rocker arms "adjuster" is showing a significantly different setting compared to the other adjusters in the picture. Majority of the adjuster settings are showing about 3 to 4 exposed threads (not a spring) on the adjuster. The circled one is showing either none or barely 1 exposed thread, making that one valve adjustment much different than the others.

That may be because some one used a different length pushrod as a replacement for a bent/damaged one???

Only way to figure that out would be to remove that one and an adjacent pushrod and compare lengths.

Another step in the investigating process.

Dan

I am not seeing a lot of info on doing the retrofit on the earlier trucks like that.

Heres the page from the FAM that shows all of the parts. I need the adjusting rod, the rubber valves, and the retainers for the valves.
thank you,
Larry

I imagine that might be valid for critical connections, but I've never heard that before. I have heard that bolts need to extend three threads past a nut, which doesn't really add much to strength, IMO, but is just to make sure all the threads in the nut are fully engaged.

It is a rack and pinion, an AMC Pacer front suspension. While sitting behind the steering wheel you can induce a small movement left and right without the tires moving. I had new tires installed 2 days before I left for JDL and Missouri. It just seemed light and needed slight corrections.

You'll have to remove the whole instrument cluster, because in order to get the fuel gauge out of the cluster, the bezel and glass have to come off, and that can't come out with the cluster installed.
The cluster is held in by 4 nuts from the back of the dash. And because the temperature gauge has a tube leading from the gauge to the sensing bulb mounted in the engine head, you'll need to drain the coolant down a bit to remove the bulb and thread the tubing thru the firewall. And you'll need to disconnect the oil pressure tubing from the back of the oil pressure gauge. Then all the wiring connections have to be removed from the cluster (amp gauge and fuel gauge, and pop the two bulb sockets out of the cluster. THEN you can remove the cluster from the back of the dash.

Here's a picture of the cluster with the temperature gauge and ammeter removed, and one of the back of the cluster with just the fuel gauge remaining.

1 day to go , currently at 12k…..

Front brake time in the 1958. Rears are done.
From this to where I am today.
Both sets of bearings look good.

Ok, so it would still have been gray or blue gray then

Willp48, that plugged up block looks a little alarming, alright!
Wonder if it had been overheating.
This 261 is an interesting project.
Good luck
C

The cam is there to keep the collar from rotating on the brg. retainer.
It is not necessary.

George

Similar to the above, I'm sure it would work fine without a cover, but personally for larger holes I usually make sheetmetal caps (and usually get fancy and play with the bead roller on larger ones), paint them and then screw or rivet them in before I cover em up. After that I have used the butyl backed sound deadening stuff and yes, it works fantastic. And does a good job on smaller holes. I do that as I figure dust/dirt/grime might work its way underneath the surrounding area and maybe cause other issues down the road, although... I'm probably worrying about nothing

Dimmer Switch 1936-1954 Chevy.

$20.00 + Ship

Jack,

Take a picture of the truck data plate and post it here. According to this GMC site page [oldgmctrucks.com] for serial number plate locations, you will find the data plate "Located under hood on R.H. side under cowl."

Many folks will chime in to help figure out what it is if you can provide that.

Dan

Thanks Dan.

Peggy just don't use it in the sun or on hot paint. When I had a show vehicle I would just spray a little on a dust cloth and wipe vehicle. Just like dusting.

Same here. There is a clear difference for sure; Chevs of the 40s had some nice US-made fabricated pieces made from OEM thickness steel - I bought many panels for other OT but still 40s/50s GM products from them and was happy with their suppliers in every case. I may be confusing vehicles here but for sure the splash panel on my 49 3600 was from them. Now, it still needed fitting it wasn't a direct fit, but I was happy with it.

I bought fabricated running boards from eBay (long box, so impossible to find) but they were fabricated in the USA from nice thick steel and those actually fit without any massaging of the running boards.

I've had other panels for different vehicles that required even cutting and welding to make fit, just garbage. But if there are multiple contours, well sometimes that's still faster than me on my shadetree English wheel and bead roller.

It's possible to ream the older style rockers for bronze bushings and offset the lube groove in the process. That cures the "too much oil" problem nicely. One piece of the tubing below is just barely enough to convert a set of 12 rocker arms.

www.ebay.com/itm/383891999601? [ebay.com]

Jerry

Send me a PM. I have the parts you need.
Jerry

Leave the rocker arms off and bolt two pieces of angle iron directly to the cylinder head. That's a 3/8-16 thread, and there will be little if any side load on the bolts. A jackscrew leveler like the one in the photo above is a very good idea for leveling the engine as it approaches the mounts.
Jerry

It’s obvious now that I take the time to look at them. New clutch has a different profile altogether.

Good news is O’Riellys gave me a refund when I brought it back.

Ordered one from the Napa store that will be here Monday.

Fingers crossed

Doug

I dragged the front bumper, front bumper brackets, & the partial front bumper splash apron up from the shed (see pics). I'll have to find a front splash apron. I will proceed to clean the bumper & brackets up while I wait for parts to finish mating the transmission to the engine.