The original arrangement of the two original parts at the end of the torque tube are/were as you describe: - an interior seal - an exterior bushing/bearing
The replacement that you have is/was called an "Okie Bushing" (because of where it was made, and, perhaps because it a allowed a quick&dirty repair by almost anyone with a few tools). This type of replacement serves as both a bearing/bushing and a a seal.
This arrangement/repair-part allowed a "quick & dirty" repair of the bushing/bearing&seal: - it allows for pushing back ("out of the way") the old bushing&seal (easier than removal; and, "out of sight - out of mind") - it provides the new bushing/bearing & seal - it saves a lot of time and effort
When doing a R&P replacement, this type of bushing is not really needed (you could easily use a separate bearing/bushing and seal), but, the Okie style bushing is readily available, at it works well.
That would indeed be a capacitor. If it was shorting then it could easily heat up rapidly. I don't know the value of that capacitor off hand but maybe someone else does. There is also an adjustment on the points.The horn operates much like a door bell or buzzer.
Well, looks like I'm a no-go for Sunday. I had some family stuff come up that prevents me from making it. I know I'm bummed, but I hope there is a good turn out. I will try to make another outing in the near future.
8 volts is a little high, which could cause the battery plates to warp or the water level in the cells to drop too quickly. I'd suggest dropping the regulator setting just a little, but remember that when you install the cover after making the adjustment, the voltage will drop slightly due to better magnetic conduction of the steel cover. Adjust the voltage at the battery posts cruise RPM to about 7.7 or so with the cover removed, and it should drop to about 7.5 with the cover on. Jerry
You can usually tell if it's lugging too hard or straining a lot. Then just drop to the next lower gear and proceed to the top. It should pull easier in the lower gear and not have to work as hard. That being said, don't over rev it then either. You should also be able to tell if it's over revving or winding too tight. If you've driven the truck a lot you should have a feel for it and be able to tell where it's "comfortable". Hope that made sense.
Its said that originally the mat laid on top of the retainer. But, just to be different, I put my mat under the retainer to help hold it in place. For some crazy reason everyone who rides with me seems to get in and "push" on the floor mat toward the firewall. Even if the mat is held in place on the little metal pins that some trucks have the passengers seem to always pull the mat over it, or stretch it.
.......maybe I need to put a sign on the side "not for hire" and "no riders"
Anway putting the mat under the retainers did the trick.
I judge people by only two traits. Can they tie a fishing knot. Just one. And can they simply get into my truck without breaking something. I tolerate everything else. Except 12-15 other things maybe. Carl
You will blow a lot of oil out of the draft tube if you don't install the baffle. If you don't have one try asking in the parts wanted section of the swap meet on this forum. I believe you can install the baffle after dropping the oil pan. Kent
Hy Guys, I contacted our GMC guy George and he said he could make it. Now how about some of you who have never been out to one of my Pikanks, great opportunity to meet guys with a similar interest, give your trucks a test drive for the rest of the summer events, and have a look at my rust collection. Come on out guys we don't bite (at least not that I know of). Regards Bobb
My longest trip was when I brought my 54 home. 1979,from Luning Nev to Williams Lake B.C Canada. Towed my Dads 72 Toyota wagon back home. Was a long trip. 2nd longest trip was from Williams Lake to Yellow Knife N.W.T. and back. For many years that 54 was my only vehicle,year around.Still have it and drive it,just not all year.
I was going to suggest doing yourself also, it's a fairly easy job with no special tools needed. Jim Carters is now selling new worm shafts and ball sockets that weren't available not to long ago if you was to need one. If you shop e-bay, you can still find NOS parts for them, or go to any of the major parts venders for bearings, bushings, and seals. Follow this manual, https://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/sets/72157632210242370/ , even though it for a '52, it still applies to your gear box. I rebuilt my '41 gear box which is like yours, with NOS parts I scrounged up, it works as good new and drives as easy as if it had power steering.