Ed I believe that most if not all 52 Chevrolet trucks came with push button door handles. The doors from the earlier models are interchangeable or I believe the door handles could be interchangeable. When they get that age anything could have happened to the doors. This is just a guess. Jim
Checking the trans gear ratios is easy...mark both input and output shafts and the housing with a reference mark. Then turn the input shaft and count it's number of revolutions until the output shaft has made one complete turn...then do this for the other gears. Direct will be one full turn of the input equals one full turn on the output. If you have OD than about three quarters of a turn on the input shaft will equal one full turn on the output.
There is no accessory switch position in any of these switches. Check attached photos
Factory Set-up for 49-53 ignition switch, Two position ON - OFF 11:00 o'clock position OFF .1:00 o'clock position ON
There are three terminals. A. One terminal feeds voltage to the switch. B, C. terminals receive voltage when the key is switched ON B and C are internally tied together..
That said, if you feed voltage to the switch by connecting to B. C will also receive voltage and vice versa. But the key ON position will become OFF and OFF will become ON . The ignition will be reversed.. And you will only have one switched terminal with voltage instead of two.
There is a possibility that you may have a three position switch housing with a non-teardrop lever key cylinder.
The thing is, both type of switches work essentially the same ON - OFF, The only difference is, the teardrop lever switch has a OFF LOCKED position 11:00 o'clock position OFF LOCKED 12:00 o'clock position ON IGNITION .1:00 o'clock position OFF UNLOCKED
This a long shot but when you took the starter apart did you check the brushes contacting point on the (commutator). Yellow (A) circle in photo. The brush contacting point (commutator) should be shiny copper looking. If not, use 00 sand paper to shine-up commutator and clean out dirt in separators. Then check brushes (B 19) for wear, if brushes are touching brush holder replace brushes or buy new starter.
The only other thing is, does the engine crankshaft turn.
The crankshaft does turn. I took the starter apart and everything looked good. I sent pics to a guy that rebuilds them and he saw nothing wrong.
Im going to see if i can chase down wiring issues. I did order a new/rebuilt starter from NAPA that should be in this week. Hopefully between all of those I'll get it working.
An auto trans does not have a pilot bushing. The snout of the torque converter centers up in the large counterbore behind the bushing. On small block V8's, the automatic trans crankshafts have a smaller hole than the std. trans shafts, and if one of those shafts is used with a manual trans, a smaller OD pilot bushing must be used. It's possible that the late model sixes are the same way. To get the bushing out, just thread a 5/8" diameter tap into the bushing and keep turning once it bottoms out. The bushing will walk itself out of the crank. It ruins the bushing, but it's trashed anyway if the trans won't fit into it. Jerry
You would need Antman with a tiny camera to do that.
I think that every stovebolter needs a wireless borescope/camera. I have one that I got for about $25 online. The camera and cable is less than 1/4" in diameter. A guy could easily look inside a door without much trouble. It will connect to a smartphone (teeny picture) or a laptop.
SignsUp, if I understand the intent of your question, in order to have redundant electric and mechanical pumps, you don't need an either/or setup. An electric fuel pump can be installed near the gas tank, and the output run to the mechanical fuel pump as normal. Fuel will flow through the electric pump, even if it is not turned on. Likewise, if the mechanical pump should get weak, the electric pump will push/flow fuel through the mechanical pump to the carb, just fine. This can be useful, since the electric pump (if controlled by a manual switch) can be used to prime the fuel system after a long rest, or to aid hot starting, etc. Here is a lengthy piece by Deve that describes what I am talking about (scroll down to "Augmenting Your Existing Mechanical Pump").
One thing to keep in mind, if the mechanical pump diaphragm should fail, it is possible for the electric pump to introduce fuel into the crankcase. Something to think about.
The PCV system uses vacuum from the intake manifold to operate. This represents a small vacuum leak which is compensated for by adjusting the fuel air mixture. If the PCV valve becomes clogged and no longer draws vacuum, you will have an issue. A 21 MPG to 12 MPG problem? No. But a problem none the less.
POR and similar urethane types don't have a lot of elasticity. A flexible type finish is best for frames that tend to flex. If the proper steps aren't taken with POR good adhesion may be problematic down the road.
More pics of those black plugs with only 650 miles on them: What's your opinion as to whats going on in the cylinders.....just running way too rich, burning a bit of oil (but not enough to show in the exhaust?),
I used a heater valve from Napa (part # 660-1294), 4 ports, vacuum operated, goes inline. no vacuum, it allows water through to the heater core, add vacuum (for the summer) and it bypasses the heater core and allows water to flow back into the engine.
On another forum it was observed one of the valve springs was installed upside down. I corrected that but while doing so, it caused me to wonder. So I dug out all my notes, etc and I should tell you this head was not rebuilt by John. It was rebuilt by Mr. Turbyfill, Jr in 1997. He replaced the one valve which had stuck, all guides, springs, washers/spacers, etc and a few seats. The rest of the valves were fine and it didn't need to be resurfaced since it had been surfaced in 1978 and was still ok. This head work had been originally done by John in 1978 and the engine had between 5,000 and 5,500 miles on it when the valve stuck (hence the lack of cylinder wear). So in the spirit of transparency & honesty, there it is. Please let me know if you have any questions.
Hey guys hope someone can throw some light on my problem as suggested my make of gauges are NVU new vintage USA Detroit I have the ones with all the gauges in one cluster and the speedo / rev counter in the other HERE HOPING. THANKS MIKE
Both my retired Dakotas have 3.9 liter V6's, which are basically 318's with two cylinders lopped off. They've got throttle body injection and pushrod operated valves- - - -pretty simple, basic transportation. Add an overdrive transmission that's more or less an upgraded Torqueflite, and things get even better. My 59 Burb that was originally slated for a 472 Cadillac and a Turbo 400 might have a different future coming up! Jerry