The Helium tank would be overkill- - - -those things are designed to hold 2K PSI or so and they're very heavy.
I don't mean the tanks similar to tanks used for welding... Maybe you haven't seen them at Walmart, but they remind me of a smaller 20# LP tank, but lighter weight construction. Either way, I'm really liking the PVC idea! What do you think would work size wise? 3", or 4" diameter by 12, maybe 18" long? What about some sort of pressure relief? As in, if I don't use my brakes/wipers in 20 minutes of engine runtime, will I damage the system?
I have read all the responses on this thread and many others concerning belts in a AD truck. My thinking and it is probably very flawed, so I expect to get flamed is a shoulder belt will not help much on frontal hit impacts with any speed involved, I think no matter what, that steel post of a column is going to get you. I'd rather have a lap belt and lay down. I have personally seen a guy thrown out of a vehicle and survived that would of obviously not if he had a three point. But alas, one could argue the merits and demerits of restraint systems forever. I think a successful lap and shoulder restraint includes a breakaway column and air bag. I think history has shown the evolution of these safety devices over the years and it has definitely evolved with all components and crumple zone sheet metal working in unison. One is not much good without the other IMHO, so mine will have lap belts only with hope of stopping you from getting thrown around too bad and sustaining life for a under 25mph hit, after that seems that everything else is a crap shoot.
Untold thousands of 55-57 Chevy 265's got by with regular plugs and straight plug wire boots. They did have one bad problem- - - -the #7 plug was buried behind the steering gear shaft and it was very difficult to reach. I've encountered several of them 50-something years ago with 7 Champion plugs and one AC- - - -a flat rate mechanic had done a 7-plug tune-up at some time in the past! That elderly plug was always buried behind the steering column!
90 degree plug wire boots would give you a little extra frame rail or steering mast clearance- - - -use whichever works best for you. Jerry
I just went through this on my 53 and had no issues at all getting everything riveted back up. The kit gives you the exact amount of rivets. Cmon you bean counters, there is no way you can do it on one kit, order two and have extra. Since you are working under the grill, systematically assemble from the top down, keeping the rivet gun away from the other pieces. I call it the fourteen pieces from hell. At least I thought so until I got to installing the glass and wings in the door, then the grill was a pleasant distant memory
I just recently went through a similar situation w/a 79 250 in a 49 GMC. Due to previous hillbilly engr'ing I had to change the thermostat housing to the smaller 235 hose outlet which was smaller than the radiator's opening. I now needed a hose with 2 different sized hose openings. Armed with measurements, 10 minutes at a local FLAPS produced a flex hose that worked perfectly. You may have to go that same route. Pic
I put a 455 Buick into a 51 panel truck. I used a 33 inch aftermarket chrome tilt column with column shift. Cleared that big Buick valve cover....... close but no interference. Also, used, a Kugel Komponents column shift linkage that was easy to install and adjust for the turbo 400.
I read some time ago ,to put laquer thinner on a rag and wipe it in a small section . If it's a true epoxy primer , it will not come off onto the rag. I tried this on my own epoxy primed part , and it did not show on my rag. Do a google search on the subject and see what you find.