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Autometer makes a nice 5,000 rpm gauge, I got mine from JEGS

Nice rig robVee, looks like it'd be handy for firewood.

Went thru the same issue with the multimeter on spark plug wires last week, tone/continuity did not register, switched to resistance and got readings, tested a known good/used wire and used that as my reference, I always say you need to test the test eqpt (multimeter) before taking a reading so you know the settings are correct and what to look for…..

Personal web site.

They were pretty destroyed getting them out. They were roller tapered bearings and they fell out to the cage when removed.

Brass pipe is e$$$$$$pensive. I'm a cheapskate.
Jerry

a 3/4" UNF (Unified National Fine) thread is 16 threads per inch. You're about as likely to find a lefthand die in that size in a local parts store as finding a chicken with lips. The place I go for machine tooling and equipment and parts is Victor Machinery Company. (www.victornet.com [victornet.com]). They have a minumum dollar amount for an online order- - - -don't remember what it is, but it's fairly low. I'd suggest going online somewhere like Ebay and buying a thread pitch gauge. They're available in both inch and metric sizes, and every tool box should have a few items like that. Ditto for a dial or digital caliper, preferrably one that can measure in both metric and inch dimensions. Like it or not, metric is the common measuring system, and America was at least 50 years behind the rest of the world in switching to metric measurements. Everybody else did it after WW II.
Jerry

Look great Jay, Congrats!

Roger that. stop. standing down. stop. over and out. stop.

Thanks for stepping back up Leo!
Vicki said to say Hi! She also said you looked like one of the Mario Brothers when you were in that tree.

Don

He hasn't been back on this thread in nearly a month. There's a definite sequence to assembling the bottom end of a 216, and doing it the way an engine without shimmed rod and main bearings is done will almost guarantee a massive failure shortly after startup. If we don't get any response soon, I'm going to assume the OP doesn't want our advice. He's picked one of the most difficult projects imaginable for his "first car engine".
Jerry

i have a used 40 steering wheel for $75 to go on e bay soon. I can work it out if it works for you. 630-542-8032 Chuck

In Ohio your vehicle can be registered as "historical" after 25 years & a distinctive historical plate is issued. You can display a YOM plate as long as you carry the historical plate & registration

Agree, you don't blast those places. Those guys use high pressure. You will NEVER get all the sand out. If you think you did, you didn't. If you have the body off the frame, I recommend cleaning the frame yourself and painting it yourself. Using elbow grease. The axles come off pretty easily. Leaf springs will not get damaged by sand. They live thru that all the time. They will crush the sand into dust and blow away.

Bushings, bearings, seals, gaskets, ujoints, tie rod ends, gears... will all get high pressure forced sand in them. Are you sure it is actually sand? You can't mask areas and still get the frame blasted clean. It's a catch 22.
This is my opinion from experience. Others have different views.

Yes Jerry, that is my shade tree. I'm a DIY guy with no real garage. Just some covered areas. There is no rain or snow or cold weather here. No humidity or wind or RUST! A garage is very hot and I can't afford to air condition one. Can't work any more in june, july, aug...too hard on the heart.

Jon G: Thanks ever so much for this update and getting all this information in one place. I may not use it but doubtless someone will and it will be invaluable data.

Tell me more about the dinner and cruise.

Just under that here, but probably twice the humidity.

If you're taking the clock apart, take it to a print shop. They can scan it and make a decal for you any size and color you want.

went and looked today and the retainer is there. I will try to get it off in the next couple of days before I leave town on tuesday.

At one time dual points were the rage, and truth be told, there was a benefit to using a dual point set up under certain circumstances. The issue, that time has long since past. Just as a threshold issue, for a street driven car, you really do want vacuum advance. Second, an HEI would be way way better then a dual point Mallory. Hotter spark, way more reliable, parts are available over the counter, well proven ignition with a vacuum advance. Otherwise, unless you are running high rpm, which is where the dual point could make a difference in terms of coil saturation and field, have your stock distributor rebuilt and stick with the stock points. Just a thought.

The 250 will require a total rebuild. Funds are not available for that and the 4.3 was free. Thank you for your concern about my “problem”.

Charlie Hardin, better known as "Cletis" has been gone for quite some time but for many of us he will never be forgotten.
He and his wife, June, were regulars at Stovebolt gatherings...from the Texas Connection!!

Maybe you could look into different kinds of IFS swaps, which may (or not!) fit your engine better: Corvette IFS (Flat out engineering, among others) or the "traditional" mid-'70s Camaro front clip.

If not too late, needed another 2XL to send to Paul S. That would make two 2XL and 1XL for "our" order.

Sorry if I wasn't clear.

Fixite yeah that makes sense that there's not a lot about them online then.