The title pretty much says it all. I need to replace the inner and outer cowls (and brace) on my '50 and want to preserve the side vent. I have not seen replacement panels for this, so I am assuming that mean DIY fabrication required. Wondering how to and if anyone has any pics of been there and done that?

Nice truck Adam

Welcome

John

Not trying hijack this post. But Rick and 2ManyTrucks, seem to have a fair working knowledge of these old radios. I have the 986443, in my 53 3100. Ray Holland restored it for me my around 12-14 years ago. I stored it until installing it my truck in March of 2016. It worked great for about a year. Then, I would get a slight hum for awhile. Then it would go away. One day, I stopped by our bank. Shut the radio and the truck off. Got back in about 5 minutes later. Started my truck, turned on the radio and all I got was static. I can tune it to a few stronger stations. They come it alright. But, not nearly as well as they had before. Thinking it might be something wrong with the antenna, I bought another one. It sounds the same, when I hook it up as well. I happen to have another set of NOS tubes. You guys have any ideas? Again, I am not trying to hijack MtneerMike's post. I want to make sure that he gets his answers first.

Thank you all in advance for your advice and knowledge.

Rugo

Maybe this thread should be locked also?

EDIT: OMG - I noticed it's the devil thread...lock it! Isn't 666 the devil?

Alan

Lol, going to miss talking to you at homecoming this year. I always try to catch a little information oozing out of you each time! And I don’t mean yellow fluid or road apples.

Chris

Bump

My experience in restoration of Sparky, started in late 2009. I learned to pick up any missing or needed parts early or whenever possible and sometimes more than one copy. Stuff is getting harder to find and prices have gone up because of it. I suggest taking and writing down an inventory of what is on hand and making a list of what you find needing replacement or is missing. More than one copy for some pieces may be needed to pick a more usable part without a major headache and or expense otherwise. Also, guys here and elsewhere advised that nothing be parted with until the project is done. Glad I listened, because a few times parts on a piece needed to be changed out to make, for example a hood latch assembly complete. The spare tire carrier, as another example, took several years to collect all the individual pieces. It is now complete.
Good luck
46Sparky

Don't know if it was wear or that meshing gears need a lead-in chamfer on their edges.

be happy it's the plug hole leaking, easy fix
one of my 235s sprung a leak in nearly the same spot, but right in the side of the casting, just south west of your leaking block heater
it's as if the casting was bad from the factory and just took many years to finally leak
my plan is the butter it up with some JB Weld in the spring time.
-s

I buy a 235 now and again. I am generally in the 100-150 for a non running but basically all there motor, depending on the condition. If it’s a rusty hulk that’s been sitting outside for 40 years, I probably would not even make an offer. 150-225, sometimes 250, for a running example, all of them the 55-62 motors. I have seen the 700sellers. No dice for me. Too much when you add in the expense to do a proper rebuild.

Found one. Pulled it out of a 1960 C10 sitting in a field. Thanks.

That will work fine.

It doesn't have 1, only a heavy duty crossmember further back that the carrier bearing bolts to.

here's short driveshaft with bearing.