Stovebolt.com Forums Active Threads

been doing some research on finding new wheels, found a few people selling and ordered a set from Summit, but now there stuck out there some place in limbo understandably

I well keep my old ones and get them redone one of these days

still waiting for new wheels to arrive, I was wondering what size tires people are runningon on there 3100's and are you staying with bias ply or going to radials ?

[img]https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...ame/15859408100294142661745179295646.jpg[/img]

Ditto on this end Don!

...where does your dual exhaust exit the truck. I once had the problem on a late model. If the exhaust pipes are turned to the outside, behind the wheel, you may be getting some exhaust noise from your type of mufflers?
..just a thought.

Good work and thanks for the pictures. We once had an AD cab over we called "Rag Doll". I love them.

Sounds like your brown wire is shorted to ground. To isolate you may be able to just pull the parking light bulbs out and replace them one at a time to see which blows fuse. Put an ohmmeter between the wire and ground looking for a short. You could also pull the bulbs out one at a time to see when the short goes away. Fix will probably be a lot simpler than finding it. Good luck

It was diifferent from state to state. Only SOME states used the engine serial number. Most used the serial number from the Vehicle Serial Number Plate on the driver door jam. The numbers from the engine and the Vehicle Serial Number Plate never matched and as pointed out in a previous post there was never a vin on the frame even though some guys insist their truck has one.

No engine and no Vehicle Serial Number Plate on the door jam you have no choice but to get a vin issued by your state DMV. It takes anywhere from 3-9 months.

The 3800 springs are wider and longer than 3100 & 3600 springs...
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/51ctsm0202.htm
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/51ctsm0316.htm
I should have mentioned St. Louis Spring, but I forgot. I got a good quote from them for new front springs for my 3600 years ago. And they have a good rep.

welcome plesae post pix of your fleet

nice finds fortunatelly these old trucks are easy to work on especially with the knowledge you will find here

That's why we are all here.

-Woog

very neat stuff carbking, thanks for going to all of that trouble.

I'm sure that will come in handy for a lot of folks.

-Woog

Yep, the engine folks are going to need more information, like TC wrote.

Welcome to the 'bolt.

-Woog

Thanks, Kevin.

If anyone is interested in getting some Chevron Delo EP 00 (synthetic gearbox semi-fluid grease), I still have some extra beyond my needs that I can package in either standard grease cartridges or quart-size jug containers. Just search for my posting in the Swap Meet or send me a PM.

I know lots of people use the J-D Corn Head grease, but at NLGI 0, it's just a bit thick by my way of thinking. Mobil, Shell, Chevron all make suitable EP 00 greases, the downside is just that the minimum buy is in a 5 gallon (35#) pail. I selected the Delo EP 00 because of its availability to me, its superior specs, and because its base oil viscosity matches the original spec, at SAE 90 wt, equivalent. So, I have about a 100 year supply. LOL. Just my 2 cents.

Cheers!

Doug

The resistor on that model is a ceramic unit on the outside of the firewall near the v.reg. & horn relay. Read the directions on the Petronix carefully. Some combinations use a resistor in the circuit & some don't. It is important to get the right setup. The last one I had was a 56 I put Petronix on. I used the resistor. It worked fine, started instantly but I accidently left the key on without the engine running one time when I was testing lights. Over night it blew the coil wide open.

George

If you're going to make a spacer, you'll need a lathe, not a milling machine. The diameter and concentricity of the center hole is important. Start with a big hole saw with the proper thickness of spacer material mounted on a face plate, and finish the hole accurately with a boring tool.The rest of the shape of the plate can be done with a scribe and a bandsaw once the plate fits the bearing retainer properly. Get the center hole right, clamp it to the transmission, and use a transfer punch to locate the bolt holes. Then scribe a line around the transmission ears and cut the plate to fit with a bandsaw. Simple and easy!

Don't waste time trying to change the center section of the rear axle. If you do that, you'll need to lock the pivoting spring mounts some way, and welding cast parts with rubber bushings inside them is a pain in the rear end (yours, not the truck!), and rarely works for very long. Swap the whole housing since you've got it already.
Jerry

Dr.C welcome to the bolt......just remember to ask questions in the most appropiate forums.

Fred, welcome to the Stovebolt and wow what a nice truck. See you around the garage.

Check here for a service manual, http://www.oldirononline.com

or, check here, http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/index.htm

One or the other should have a shop manual that shows torque settings.

Ha. That could make for interesting journey.

Hello Andrew, welcome to the Stovebolt where Chevy and GMC trucks rule...and a few Internationals. While a 76 is a few years newer than what we cover here I am sure you will find lots of information that you can use and can get answers to questions when ask in the most appropiate forums.

....we do have some members here from Italy so watch for them. I have personally met Vince who resides in Milan.

Welcome to the Stovebolt, Glenn, consider yourself at home. If you can't find it here....you don't need it!!

Welcome to Stovebolt, Andy, no better place can be found.

Thanks everyone! Very helpful information! David