Observations: Questions:
1. Don't recognize that as an American Autowire kit, what is the kit part number?
2. Seems like I see old wiring and new wiring in pics? I suppose you are showing before and after? Otherwise why is there new and old wire?????
3. Ballast resistor is needed with a 12V conversion as well as a 12V coil. Assuming you did a 12V conversion. Unsure.
4. The ballast resistor was always supposed to be between ignition "ON" and the coil pos.
5. Did you or owner do all the necessary modifications needed for 12V conversion? Including ALL NEW 12V bulbs? No other reason bulbs would burn out!!!!!
Unless the bulb was totally wired wrong.
6. Forgive this comment, but the whole job looks very sketchy and strange. The American Autowire kit is the top of the line kit. The instructions don't even look like the AAW kits I've had.

If the forum software was updated, it likely excludes words of 3 characters or less. I just tried a search on "try" and got the same non-result. Maybe you'll need to change your photo tags to xxxx. I would agree that would be a PITA. I'm on another forum that uses vbulletin, and it won't find 3 characters or less.

My only issue with them is that they're a touch too long. A little shorter would help with leverage. I may whack mine down a bit.

Cool, thanks for the comments guys!
I'll go ahead and try out tip inserts. It looks like the only ones available online are high durometer polyurethane... probably fine, but right now I'm planning to turn my own out of UHMW for maximum durability & minimum friction. I heard that drilling spring steel is reasonable with a masonry bit... we'll see.

Sounds like the full length liners are also tried and true, but since this is for the front springs on a 4x4 axle (will get beat on a lot), I'll avoid sticking extra layers under the u bolts.

You'd love the short stroke screamer I've got on the drawing board- - - - -a 305 block with a destroked 283 crankshaft- - - -a 2 7/8" stroke crankshaft in a 305 block gives a displacement of 250 cubic inches- - - - -sort of like a bumblebee on steroids!
Jerry

Found this on another forum. Is it legit? Has anyone ever heard of this?

As far as literature is concerned, I would check Ebay. You never know what will pop up there.

Yep, and all you need is a $80,000.00 worth of machine equipment and tools (used prices), and a HRL to run the equipment, but I think they quit making those a long time ago.
Carl

You will need to address the center crossmember. It will likely be in the way of your transmission. Even if it isn't, you will have trouble if you ever need to pull the transmission later on.
I cut the middle of of mine, welded drop plates to the stub ends of the remaining ends which are riveted to the frame and welded plates to the ends of the removed center section, and drill holes for bolts so that I could bolt the center back on leaving it about 2 inches lower than it was.

I had a GMC 228 bolted up to a '47 bell housing with the original three-speed transmission and enclosed drive shaft in my Chevrolet 3100. The GMC was longer and the PO notched the sheet metal and butchered the radiator support to make it fit. I've since went to a 235, SM420, open drive shaft set-up.

Maybe so, Jon, except it is "Never the carbretor"........
Carl

Hello everyone,

Well, the transmission's together! The first/reverse and speedometer worm gears came in a while ago, as did an NOS governor drive gear (in the original box, which is kinda cool) I found on eBay, since none of the transmission places I talked to had one in stock. Assembly went pretty smoothly, or at least it did after I got the overdrive output shaft bearing turned the right way 'round, which only cost me a little time an an 88-cent Woodruff key. The two big gears arrived clean and ready to install, and all the governor gear needed was to have the pilot polished with some emery cloth on a lathe (as did the pilot on the transmission input shaft). All it needs now is the last case bolt (none of the "originals" matched, and several of them had threads that were pretty chewed up, so I decided to just replace all of them), and a plastic speedometer gear compatible with both the overdrive unit and my truck's speedometer. Tractor Supply was the only place in town that had the appropriate bolt in the correct size, but I cleaned out their supply when I bought the first four, and I've been waiting on them to get their hardware restocked ever since. No big deal, that bolt would be easy enough to install even if the transmission was in the truck. As soon as the paint class gets done practicing on it, it'll be ready to install (although I think it may be a while before I'm ready for that).

I got paid last Friday, and a new starter drive fixed my other truck's starting issue, so I should be able to take the engine to the machine shop here soon. The block, head, bellhousing, and associated covers have all been hot-tanked and cleaned, but that's as far as I've gotten with it. I want to check the head, deck, and line bore for true-ness before I take it in, so that I can get a better idea of how much I'll be spending, but I do know the crank needs ground and polished, the cylinders bored and honed, and the flywheel surfaced. I'm also having them fit the new pistons and bearings.

It's the time of year when the deadlines for all the big assignments, research papers, presentations, book reviews, etc., are bearing down on me in close succession, so I haven't had time to do much else with the truck. Things should slow down a little after this week, though.

Next January, I'm taking another sheetmetal class, and it sounds like I'll be able to bring my own stuff in to work on for class credit, so hopefully I'll knock a big chunk out of the bodywork then.

I'll look in my parts pile and see what I have. Do you need the mounting brackets as well?

Mike B

don't let the terrible spacing fool you, my factory engines in Canada look like hand stamped, numbers not in a line
example attached

but yeah, it could be a coincidence and you have a replacement engine,
i can't find evidence yet of that block in Canada, so we don't yet have all the facts in this mystery.
-s

Hi Kevin, still available?

Thanks!

Attached is the 1947-54 Factory Assembly Manual mounting instruction for the radiator support to frame crossmember.
Sec. 11 Sheet 2.11

There are also two braces/rods & brackets (Sec. 11 Sheet 12.00) that support the upper fender to the firewall.
They may play a roll in keeping body sheet metal from shifting around.

1/2 ton use two mounting bolts on radiator support to frame crossmember. (check attached)
3/4 ton and up use two bolts in center of radiator support to frame crossmember. Sec.11 Sheet 2.12

54304

Thank you!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gxm_qpKh7Jw

After I got a local quote of $650 for a reupholstered seat, I too searched for saddlemans. Rock Auto said they had some that would fit a '48 Chev.

There's no slot for a shotgun along the front but they do have the pouches for change and a parking pass.

Fit? They hung over in both directions and were 1-piece. And they were much thinner than my 25-year old saddlemans. I decided to buck it up and modified them.

I cut them length-wise, keeping the tightening loops with the back portion. I put grommets across the rear of the bottom section. I had painted the location of the grommet with contact cement to make the material stronger for the grommets.

I put the excess material of the seat on the passenger side and grommeted it too.

After stretching it all, it looks and sits real fine but I wonder how long they will last.

(I should take a pic of the passenger side to show how that looks.)

Appreciate the replies all. I already have a thread going on in the big bolt garage and im getting plenty of info there which is great. The short term goal is to have her running with a new bed in the coming two weeks to put her to work, and then once spring plant hits, ill put her on blocks for two months or so as I do a complete overhaul and repower for a bigger engine with better pulling power and mileage. Ill happily document the entire process as I go for everyone.

Just, Thanks for all your work!!

It occurs while stopped for 10-20 seconds with my foot firmly placed on the brake and my hand on shifter, ready to throw it in neutral. I have a three mile drive to town at 45 mph so it’s typically warmed up. Just this week I discovered an open vacuum connection so I plugged that but haven’t had a chance to see if that made a difference. I have the door panels off to upholster them myself. This past spring I had a/c, ps, tilt column, parking brake, and exhaust installed. After four years, this is my first year to actually start driving it. Just building a daily driver. Any suggestions appreciated.

Will you be retaining the stock 6 volt system ?

You will need to I.D. all of the parts that you need from these pictures & let me know what you need ....

Obviously, it depends on the amount of money changing hands. The higher the price, the more a seller should be willing to do to assure the buyer that the vehicle, house, boat, or piece of jewelry is worth the asking price. If somebody won't accommodate a reasonable request, he's probably got something to hide. "Trust me" is one of the oldest con games in the world, and "Buyer Beware" is the antidote for a good line of BS.
Jerry

Got it. Thanks Doug!