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The original needle was deteriorated badly.

The end f the cable is spinning as the odometer is working.

It is possible that the cable is pushing on the brass piece on the back of the speedo. At first I thought the needle was rubbing on the glass face, but it does not turn even out of the case when pushed on the back of the shaft.

It did work when I first put it together and ran the truck for the first few times, but then it worked occasionally and then quit all together.

Welcome from downunder the madness is worldwide

Watch out now they know where you live I wish I could come and visit 2 Ton has been my co pilot on a few road trips love to meet you all on my bucket list

Question has anyone converted to a dual system type master cylinder on these larger trucks? Reason I ask is I worked with a fellow that had I think a 2 ton 57 Chev with a box on back for his vegetable, fruit business, broke a brake line going down a steep hill and crashed at the bottom into a building. I like pure stock old trucks but for driving one I'd want a dual system because of that story. So will the bolt in the stock position after market units work on the larger trucks, Ok?

So how come there are no REPLY buttons in that thread?

I just wanted to ask what do they do during those inspections? I hope no one is using a pry bar on the parts of your vehicle to see if some suspension part is loose.

I have been hitting the door skin lately. It has had its ups and downs. To begin with I had to add a little steel along the inner door’s front edge near the bottom. The inner lower tub reproduction was a little off, as you can in the pictures prior. This was no big deal. Then, I began to drill plug weld hole along the outer skin replacement. I clamped it in place using scribes I’d put before original’s removal, then tacked it solid before I removed the door to fold it all over. I tacked the corners and began to fold over the corner lips to try out the door skinning tool.

It all went great until it didn’t.

As mentioned above the tool is great, but be bloody careful as you can wreck stuff quickly.

The leading and trailing edges of the door went great. The door bottom had a hiccup.

If you attempt a door skin job with this Astro DS1000 door skinning tool, DON’T drill the plug weld holes first. As I moved along the bottom lip, I noticed that the holes caused weak points and the metal wouldn’t move as easily and would distort outward. This gave me little “tabs” that stuck down because of the uneven pressure and kinking at the plug weld holes.

Also, as I moved along the bottom, the above issue also caused the tool to go off track, inadvertently folding the steel over, but missing the inner tub lip. This in turn caused the tool to kink the outer door skin slightly, giving me a very slight concave depression just above the lower lip. I removed some steel on the inner edge of the outer lower lip, worked the kink a bit, then welded over an extension to get back on the inner tub.

What a pain. It’s even worse because, as I was moving on the lower edge, my gut told me something was amiss and I should switch to doing it by hand and dolly. Hindsight is irritating to say the least.🤷🏼‍♂️

The photos show the highs and lows, but they actually aren’t that bad. A 1/16” of filler and I should be ok. I am lucky that the very bottom of the panel’s edge doesn’t wave up and down, so I can build a very good, strong skim of filler along that edge. It’s good because the filler won’t actually be on the edge this way. I’m still fine tuning but this door is finally fitting the way I want it to. A pillar gap= good, rear door gap= good, window frame gap= lower gap= very workable, leading edge gap= to be determined once front sheet metal is hung.

Hours 465

👍🏻🦊👍🏻

Ive tried posting several times, but for whatever reason the posts never appear.

It has a 283 4 barrel stuck to a 3spd top loader Packard transmission.

This is a local new feed about coastal city activity related to Cruising for anyone who might be interested in coming in the future.

Cruising the coast [wlox.com]

I got caught out tonight in the dark after being in the sun all day. I drove home while the sun was setting and made to the house after dark. My eyes were tired and couldn't see the gauges due to the poor lighting at that time of day. There is only two bulbs between three gauges. I was wondering if you could take some 12v led strip lights and put them around the inside of each gauge. Just adding LED bulbs isn't going to do much, each gauge pod has a few cutouts where the light shines through, so even with the best of everything, very little lights reaches the far side of each pod, the speedometer doesn't get even lighting, so even it's hard to see. You can see the back and where the lights are in the picture I attached.

Very nice looking truck!

1/2 ton original wheels had 6 clips per wheel. GM later went to 3 per wheel when the wheels were widened to 5" for the 6 lug 16" wheels. I have a set of the 4.5" wide wheels and a 4" wide one (47-48?) and also a 5" wide wheel that has just the 3 clips.

You will have to exchange email addresses or phone # since you are under moderation and cannot send PMs.

$20,000: '51 Chevy 5100 COE, Utica, NY
· Original 235 engine was replaced with freshly-rebuilt 261 engine
· Fuel:
o New Carter BB-1 carburetor
o Replaced choke cable assembly
o Replaced throttle cable assembly
o Replaced float on fuel sending unit
o New fuel filter and lines
· Serviced complete brake system:
o Replaced front and rear brake cylinders
o Replaced front brake return spring, hardware, clips, and body fasteners
o Replaced master cylinder
o New brake spring kit
· Radiator:
o Replaced radiator
o Replaced radiator cap
o Replaced radiator hoses
· Ignition/electrical:
o HEI ignition installed
o Timing verified
o New distributor, points, condenser
o New ignition coil and bracket
o New battery
o New voltage regulator
o New Alternator (replaced generator)
· Other:
o Replaced transmission fluid
o Replaced differential fluid
o Added truck air horn in addition to regular horn)
o NYS inspection
o Frame and suspension greased
o Multipoint vehicle inspection by heavy truck garage
o New gauge cluster replacement

Is the float arm long enough for the float to touch the bottom of the tank and the top of the tank?

If not, you'll only get an approximation of fuel volume.

You can bend the arm if necessary or weld an addition to it if it isn't long enough.

Or buy one of those sending units that Jon Goodman recommends that has an adjustable arm for different applications.

Thanks 32. That is what I envisioned for the brake handle but was unable to find aftermarket that resembled the pull over with palm release as your pic shows. It looks like the assembly mounts to the transmission with two bolts. Again what I envisioned. Much appreciated info.

Bill,
At 1:15 today I told him he does not need to test prior to full install. So the question was answered because no pretest necessary.
Otto has this down. It has all been covered. He understands the circuits, he has new wire, he gas new components and the nature of the wiring allows for easy change in case......... It's time to get it done, too simple to waste time testing. Wire it and turn it on.

6 pages is enough

That's kinda what I thought too.

The 4 part steering column DIY is done. 1963-66 C10 DIY STEERING COLUMN PAGE - LINK [lugnutz65chevystepside.weebly.com]

Looks like a good angle to me, but I'm not an expert. I did sleep at a hotel recently!

79,

When you go to your Flickr account [flickr.com], click on the first image and a "photostream" comes up. Then continue with the arrows on the right. One thing: keep clicking if a truck picture doesn't come up. It's an ad. It says it may take 5 seconds ... then click again. Fortunately, (at least on my computer) the ad itself doesn't show up ... just words about an ad.

If you enlarge the view, it doesn't do the ad pauses.

Hudson's emblem is an inverted triangle. It's interesting that their carburetor had a triangular intake.

From a '59 Panel on the farm that has melted to the ground. Used some parts for my 54 3100 project and saw this. Good front bumper and that's about it.

That truck on the Branson site is super nice. I looked at the others on the site. Not many regular trucks.

Buoymaker, I dont want something to run on the highway this day and age the way people drive, way too many nuts on the road today !!! Back when these trucks where made where i come from and grew up,there was no highways then. I choose to run rt 40 and back roads and enjoying my rides instead of being pushed down the road !! Just my opioin.

Thanks for the info that helps.

John