Since a lot of the trucks that ran the 292 were driven by mouth-breathers who would fire up a heavily-loaded truck with a cold engine and take off without a warmup, that bypass was intended to keep the coolant circulating and prevent hot spots around the cylinder walls. Nothing new about that- - - -my grandparents' coal and ice delivery trucks back in the 1930's got the same sort of abuse. Dad made his bones as a mechanic as a high school kid with a Harley Davidson with saddle bags full of tools, keeping those trucks running. Jerry
I had an Amazon Fire tablet and in the instructions, it said not to charge it in a car. I also Have a new LG Stylo 4 cell phone with a fast charging cord and adapter. Would it harm it to charge it in the car? I know I will have to get new cards because it is a different size on the end that goes into the phone. Also, my car has a 120-volt receptacle would that be alright to use?
Decades ago when I took a machining class at a local high school I was taught what I thought was the simplest drill sharpening method that could possible exist, way simpler than any other I've ever seen. Then along came this video that demonstrates an even simpler method:
Could I possibly try starting over and recutting this patch and “over curving” it to try to reduce the “puckering?” This could be a bad idea as I may need to cut back more to remove the weld material. Would you agree? If you were me, what would you do? Granted, you’d likely have avoided the whole mess by doing it right the first time! 😃
Bart, when I dismantled truck for paint, the doors lined up and closed.upon reassembly, it doesn’t close properly. Beltline is 1/8 inch lower on door. Body to doorgap is tight all around due to the numerous extra layers of paint and primer used. As for the rubber, I just replaced it last night. Even when I push the door to the correct depth, it pops back out. I can send video if you prefer to show you.
Carl, beltline is very close. I can attempt to move the door up slightly.
Thanks 46sparky the box measurements are the same. But 37 fender holes do not match. I think the top center hole on the 37 fender mounts about 1" lower on the box than the 39. Will be looking forward to hearing from you. Bill
You'll be an accomplished panelbeater in no time. I had never built a patch before either when I built that one for the rear of one of my fenders. I built a sandbag to use as well as a stump for stump shrinking (look that up on youtube) to get the convex shape I needed.
I did the first side by hand, however I borrowed a mag. drill for the second side, drill bit grabbing, even with several sizes led to that choice. Hard on wrist first side, although weight on mag. drill was a negative. It would be best as a two man job.
Hy Steve-W, Mike B and guys, I did check my 1958 through 62 parts book just to be sure, but that is not a Canadian serial number, our serial numbers begin with the last digit of the year. Beginning in 1958 a letter was added at the end of the serial number, this indicated which g.v.w. range your truck was in, hope that helps.
The linkage I was thinking of developing for the Saginaw would resemble the first photo, only it would be made of MUCH heavier materials. That one wouldn't survive more than a few energetic shifts. It could be adapted to a T-5 also. Jerry
Were Canadian casting numbers different from US casting numbers? Your head looks like a 53 or later US 235 head. Even though all 235s were redesigned for 53 with 18 head bolts, etc., the trucks and stick-shift cars still had the oil nozzles, troughs, rod dippers and lower oil pressure. Which is weird, I think.