Stovebolt.com Forums Active Threads

It's amazing that untold millions of vehicles that used point-type ignition systems traveled billions of trouble-free miles and did things like winning WW II- - - - -all without a single HEI ignition in sight!
Jerry

Just in the FWIW category:

Just checked shipping costs from Missouri to South Yorkshire via US Priority Mail.

Carburetor rebuilding kit - approximately $60.

Carburetor - approximately $160.00

This is WITHOUT adult signature. Adding the requirement of an adult signature would add a few dollars.

Again, even if a customer is OK with these costs, what about time?

In May of 2020, we shipped a carburetor kit to Canada. 11 weeks later, the customer called that he had not received it. Post Office tracer. Post Office could not determine what happened (USPS fault, Canadian Customs fault, Canadian Post Office fault). They continued to look for it for 6 months, never found it, and since the case was unresolved, WOULD NOT PAY, even though it was sent priority and insured! We did get an email from the Post Office every week for 6 months telling us they were still looking.

Sent second kit at our expense (both kit and postage). Took about 6 weeks.

I understand a customer wanting a part, but I am not going to fight this fight. Eating a repair kit PLUS international postage kind of removes the profit from the sale. Cheaper to NOT make the sale, and leave the parts on the shelf. Definitely not the customer's fault, but just not really a economically feasible sale.

Fortunately this time, it was only a repair kit. The previous time it was two restored carburetors. USPS and Canadian Customs both pointed fingers at the other, and we ate the carburetors.

And Chris, this is exactly why I gave you exact part numbers. Still trying to help, just not willing to lose money to do so.

Jon.

Thanks Fixite7. The mechanical linkage is currently in the "recycle bin". I just couldn't get it to work properly over the long haul. I did move the steering box over a bit when I put the motor in. I had Nostalgia Sid set me up with one of his custom drag links with modern joints set-up for just this type of situation.

I got the collar thingie turned down yesterday and reassembled on the trans today. Got the bellhousing back in the truck and rechecked the numbers. Everything looks pretty good. The gap should be .140. Right about where it's supposed to be. I mounted the new clutch master cylinder bracket and mocked up the linkage with the master cyl in place. It's adjusted to where I want it. I pulled the master cyl out for now. I'll attach the hydraulic line before I put it back in. Looks like Sunday afternoon we'll put it all back together, bleed the system and see what happens. Wish me luck.

that waffle pattern that really does the heavy lifting to atomize the fuel/air mixture

All that does is to collect any large fuel droplets, preventing them from washing down into the closest intake port.

Notice the quotation marks around "clones"??????? A brand new imitation might run as well as, or possibly better than an original that's been worn out, "rebuilt", and worn out again a couple of times over the past 50-something years. Ditto for Edelbrock VS AFB.
Jerry

What width? I have some that I had powder coated Bombay Ivory. Located in Pittsburgh.

Yeah, it is called a slow boat to China! or in this case, from China!...;(

Did you take the pressure plate apart when it was out?

Did you put the clutch disc in facing the right way?

Just curious, what's the serial number on the engine (found on the flat pad down near the distributor)?

Mike B

4-5-6 Chevy Trucks or something like that. I have bought parts from him before.

I stand corrected. But I personally wouldn't have the clutch on there for a break-in.

the 1947-54 GMC Repair manuals will also provide many specs and step by step procedures for the various systems.

Not my experience, although if you use "site:stovebolt.com" it does give you a listing of individual posts with a preview, but lots of other extraneous crap.

Overdrive transmissions operate best when they are installed with the electrical components as the factory intended.
Fred

Here's a vintage pic of the front end of a '53. You can see the lighter color inner grille bars, along with the painted bumper and hubcaps that were standard in that year. For '53 the inner grille bars, bumper and hubcaps were all painted Thistle Gray. In earlier years, inner grille bars were painted Waldorf White.

But it's your truck and if you want a white grille, go for it.

I'm looking for the parking brake lever that the cable attaches to inside the drum for both sides left and right also the spreader bars for both sides on my 49 gmc 1-ton with huck brakes. Had nothing there when I got truck.

DUH!!! Shane, you have to read all of your messages!!! I thought I had, but discovered this morning I had one unread message. Now I know when the message title is NOT bold, it hasn't been read. No more flashing message indicator.

Unless your door edges are really beat up, I think, take extra time to get the best looking taper (not going to be perfect). I'm spending countless hours filling and sanding to avoid any wavy action. The top of the door and bottom curvature is straight and I use as a reference....but still a big pain in the B.

These are now $25 obo shipped in the U.S.

On the triple valve spring setup we used on round track engines, we ran stock springs for the 2K RPM cam break in, and then installed the heavy springs for dyno runs and racing.
Jerry

Thanks, but no. If I can't get a warranty on a fresh build, I may as well stick with the GMC configuration. As stated above, Ed's 270 will slide onto the existing mounts and it shares some parts with my 248.

Fewer changes means faster results, and a primary consideration is not getting caught in the parking lot with my crank dangling.... [instantrimshot.com]

What part of Iowa, may I ask?

cmayna Coal belt works good too.

Idaho 39 Just oilem ,any lube almost !!

I don't have any idea what LMC is selling but the last master cylinder I bought (3 years ago) came from Rock Auto and was made in the USA. In fact even the rubber boot at the front was made in the USA. It was sold under the Cardone name and is still being sold by Rock Auto
( https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3251646&cc=1487426&jsn=409 ).

You can see "Made in USA" cast right into the side of it and the same one is being sold under the Raybestos name at a slightly higher price. I couldn't tell you who made it, but I was curious and checking on ThomasNet, I learned there is still one company (small, private company not divulging information or I would have personally contacted them) in the USA who is making both master cylinders, slave cylinders and other cast products. I also learned some of the ones being sold now are made in South America, some in Africa, several in China, some in India...really all over the world.

He could be talking about the fuel sending unit, too.