Looks like my 2 1/2 ton, same front bumper. Mine has very heavy rear springs and a set of overload springs. I'm not too sure, but the "Chevrolet" on the side of the hood is different than mine, don't know what year they changed it.
Have you got any numbers for the truck, like serial number? That would narrow it way down.
I had trouble with the clutch heads that secure the transmission/doghouse/ignition distributor covers on mine. I was able to work them all loose with heat and vise grips from the back side, enough of the threads protrude through the sheet metal to get the vise grips on. I know you won't have access to the back of all of your screws but do the ones you can get to.
Even if you do not have a current discount code (for example the one referenced above will eventually expire), just google "rock auto discount code" and a number of valid codes should pop up from 3rd party sites, or enthusiast forums, etc. I have never failed to find one that works and a 5% discount is not bad!
I've read this with great interest. Seems you have touched on everything possible. My two cents. I would be leaning towards a weak brake sring. It doesn't pull on a normal stop only on a hard stop, right? It just seems to me one of the strings could be weaker than the rest. Just a thought. Someone else has mentioned this so I tend to agree with them. I will keep u with this and see what happens. I am almost in the process of replacing all the brake lines on my 49 1/2 ton and also the master cylinder. Hey, at least you have brakes. I have none and can't get them to bleed. Oh well, I'll get it. Good luck.
If you find someone at the DMV that will alter a title, you are very lucky. Most DMV offices don't differentiate between antique vehicles. Every tax assessors office in Texas has to authority to do title work and there are 256 counties. The final say is the DMV in Austin. Titles can be altered, but it is a long process if the DMV in Austin Does it. The later 235 engines that I have seen still had the distributor boss but it was blank. It would have been simple for the installer to stamp the old engine number on it. And it was the recommended practice back then. And I have first hand information because I was swapping engines in the late '50s.
ok, so i did try to rotate the dizzy back but it still didn't start. the other thing is i know i didn't loosen the nut that much, just enough to move it but when it started knocking i lost my mind and ran back to shut it down but it died before i got there.
the engine is spinning freely but, it won't start. is it really possible that such a small amount of movement could cause the shaft to come out of the pump? i mean, its only engaged that little bit?
so if i pull the dizzy and try to get the pressure up, how much pressure should i be able to get with a drill motor?
So, the good news is that the block and head are good ones, in some ways preferable to the '53-'55 blocks, and the head supports the highest compression ratio (smallest combustion chamber) of any 235 head. Because of the hard service, watch the head for small cracks - should be checked. If the block and head cleanup and magnaflux OK, you did alright. Hopefully no premium paid because the seller misrepresented the engine parts.
You can use a stock grind 261 cam (solid lifter), which was what Chevy used in the Corvette 235 since the lift was higher. Or, you have your choice of aftermarket, solid lifter or hydraulic.
Rusty, welcome to the Stovebolt. Great place to be for Chevy truck guys. We have some great guys here willing to help and I'm sure you have a lot of knowledge to share as well. Knowledge is the best Resource.
In theory yes NPT not the best threads for sealing but you must consider the viscosity of the material that is flowing too and the pressure behind it, I just never see one of these leaking, but like others said a little sealing tape of rector seal will do ya. Oh and Grigg, I am one of the dying breed that still uses permatex 2, love that stuff.
Yes that is the wrong spot, the machine finish on the next step down where the splines are cut should be 1.3780. The part of the shaft that you are measuring is where the deflector goes. Here is your part:
I made my own. It took a while but they turned out pretty good. I spent about $22 US on the material and then cut it to fit. I used a paint pen to mark the holes as I laid it in. Then I punched an awl through and then opened up the holes with a die grinder with a burr bit in it. I built it in 3 pieces so it would lay perfectly flat. I made it so I have to remove the brake and clutch pedals to fully pull he one may, but a couple short slots would fix that if a guy didn’t want to. I have about 6” of overlap on the pieces. To help anchor the mat, I put flat washers on the rubber over top of the studs for the old “sound deadener/floor mat” and secured it with a tight fitting E clip.
Time consuming to make? Yes. Would I do it again? Yes, and I will be on the next AD.
Ok. Had to put the wife's car in to the dealership for the 10 year, 120,000 mile warranty on the timing chains. She's on her 10th year, 115,000 and some change. Good timing. Lemony car. Second timing set!! But that's not why we're here! She get's the crew cab for a daily driver, I get the Burb!
So, the corners are welded in, but that's about it. I gave it a quick coat of rattle can so it wouldn't rust since it is rainy around here. So I figured, good time to smooth out the rear gravel pan. Pretty flimsy. So I made a plywood buck to hold it and that seems to help. Currently spending some time on that.
Today, I had the chance to run the rear seat frames down to the powder coater. They should be ready in two weeks. Maybe. He always says two weeks but it ends up being more like three. $120.00 Usually a decent deal out of him. That's blasted and coated. While I'm waiting, I'll smooth out my clamp brackets since they are currently rough cut.
Tomorrow morning, I get up, head an hour South to find me a new rear bumper and a pair of running boards. I figure it's about time. I was going to have the chrome shop do the rear bumper but it's not original to the vehicle so I have no attachment to it. I'll stick it somewhere out in the yard in case I change my mind.
Once I throw some paint on the gravel pan, I'll roll the Burb back in to the shop and smooth out the rear corners. Also, finish the passenger outer to inner wheel well. And, I have a few holes to patch between the drivers door and rear fender. That should be it for rust until I do the engine swap. That's when I'll address any firewall/floor issues.
I have a punch list on my dry erase and that list is getting smaller. Soon, it will be time to paint. Maybe even this summer!! I do have a few shows to attend. We'll see. It wouldn't bother me to roam around with partial paint!