Mr Dane, please post what make, model and year of your truck in the body of your post. Since folks tend to have more than one Stovebolt, just listing in your signature line could be confusing to some. Thanks🛠
There are some great youtube videos out there as well. I had the opportunity to spend a couple hours with a guy who polishes stainless steel for a living. His bread and butter are old bel-aire's and earlier. When i was there he was working on the trim for a 40s cadillac convertible. Irreplaceable pieces, pretty rough shape. Dents came out with a pick on oak block, smoothed with a file, then sanded down progressively. His final sand was 3000grit wet mibro. Then he went to buffing wheels and rouge. he sanded everything 440 and finer wet. and in a straight line. when it was done, you could see yourself clearer than in a mirror. it was enlightening. he is a craftsman. and his work reflects it. after he was all done, he said it wasn't hard, but the key is to go step by step and don't skip any steps. Identical to prep work for a paint job.
OK, I have to fess up to being wrong (sort of ). I was having a hard time wrapping my head around the power issue.
It IS the power across the fuse that causes it to blow, but I was assuming that the full voltage of the circuit (6V or 12V) factored into that equation. But the power across a fuse is developed by the voltage drop ACROSS THE FUSE which is a fraction of the circuit voltage. The power across a fuse can be expressed as P = I squared x R where R is the fuse resistance and I is the current running thru the fuse. Resistance is fixed, and so the power (and amps) to blow the fuse is also fixed for a particular fuse.
So the bottom line is don't use a 20A rated circuit breaker in a 6V circuit that had a 30A circuit breaker in it, as it would be under-protected and might cause a fire.
I had many many dents in mine. Same thing, farm truck, hard life. I bought stud welder studs at harbor freight and tacked them in with a mig welder. then used a slide hammer to pop them out. Not in paint yet, but its smoother than it was!
Got it. I never did get much of a handle on calling the Green Leakers by their CID's rather than their series designators ...
Truckfarm ... um, one of the first rules we teach in Public Affairs School is this -- You may be right, but never argue with someone who buys ink by the barrel. Nevertheless, You are blessed to have me here. A sane web site owner would have deleted you by now.
All joking aside, I hope, through our banter, that we have given the OP some food for thought.
If you try to start it, make sure to remove ALL antique fuel from the carb, fuel pump, fuel lines, fuel tank. Might be more than you want to do, so, make sure to spell out that progress?
Thanks Ed. I'm familiar with old cars and restoration, just not this old. I've owned more than 40 old BMW's (60's & 70's) and have restored several so the basics are the same. This truck is nearly rust free and I'm not used to the sheet metal being so thick, but I'm getting more excited about getting it on the road.
After the discussion about the Holley 500 vs Stromberg ww I thought I would add some very real experience with these engines. First off I have seen so many v6 engines that have issues that people chase around in a circle it's amazing. I have had customers that have put hei. New carbs. Fiddled and Fiddled. Only to mask the problem. Usually by rejetting the new carb until it works. I have had customers that had trucks with horrible off idle stumble. Popping and poor performance. They ways blame the carb. But the truth is usually it's often a much more simple issue. The PCV system on the v6 is hidden under the valve covers. There are 2 valves. One on each side. Nearly every gmc v6 I find today still has the original gm valves. Rarely do I ever find aftermarket replacements. Also most are so gunked up they are not functioning. Allowing a big vacuum leak at idle. And just off idle. Since the carb is not calibrated to handle that No amount of adjustment in the idle circuit. Or accelerator pump stroke can overcome it. I have seen Holley replacement carbs so over jetted. It does seem to cure it Some. So I would encourage any one who has a v6 without a draft tube. To pull the valve covers. Unscrew the 2 valves and clean and inspect them for proper function. It's the first thing I check when work on one that has issues.
Good call Chris. As a former coal miner keeping my back to the wall is not unfamiliar ...new battery today just for drill. Next up machine...ummm I mean file the mangled drivers door handle reciever so I can drive the set screw against something! These trucks are like the gift that keeps giving lol. All good.
Chris, I hope heat doesn't bother you. Rumor has it we'll hit 104~105 today.
Moparguy, yes...offhand that looks very close to the same as a .86 5th gear and 3.07 rear when you add in your 31 inch tires. The first car I owned was a 1936 Ford and as I recall it had 85 horsepower. Even so I never thought it was underpowered. It was originally purchased at the State Fair of Texas and had a special shift knob commemorating 100 years of independence. I kept that knob when it was sold and replaced it with a Pabst Blue Ribbon knob (which I wish I still had because I imagine it would be nearly as uncommon).
Thanks Mike, good to hear from you! You and Pat are key players in the event, The show schedule looks to be the same as last year with not much going on Friday night. Vicki and I will be in the area Friday afternoon and set up HQ that evening. Hotel is yet to be determined. Anyway you can do your brake line demo? That is always a big hit.