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The front parking light are only on with the switch half way out. They turn off when you pull the switch all the way out.

Oh, yeah, I see that you got over it.

You are the real world. I didn't know that.

"Clock" the rings if you feel like it, but it's a waste of time on anything but a 2-stroke engine where the end of a ring can get hung up in a transfer port- - - - -and those pistons have pins in the ring grooves to prevent that from happening. Rings rotate around the piston all the time, and yes, the gaps do align with each other occasionally (for a few seconds). I had a training engine with a quartz window in one of the cylinders, and I used to watch the rings spin around the piston with a delay-flash timing light set to slow down or stop the piston travel.
Jerry

I have heard this is the higher compression head so how much different then the other heads for the 55 to 62 Engines.

You should take your last post into the “driveline forum” you will get more info!

Chris

Hello again, long time no see;

I won't apologize for being away so long, crazy times these are for sure. I have been working full-time hours at the shop and besides that I am finalizing details for a home Reno project which requires cleaning out the garage of all it contents. I have been busy sorting through 20 years of accumulated "stuff" and then packing it off to storage.
The other day, I did take some time to work on the truck. My son, who is in the army gave me a couple of spent shell casings when he was last home. I wasn't sure how I was going to use them, but it turns out they are the perfect size to fit the box rails. I cut them off, drilled a hole to use a screw to lock them in place and then used my favorite tool... The rivnut tool!
They look good to me and I once they are painted you will have to really look to see them. Not that I am trying to hide them, but I like when people hide "Easter eggs" and other details so I wanted to include some in my build.
I will post again soon and try not to stay away again so long.
Happy 4th of July to all!

Take care,
Steve

Looking at the first picture it looks like it was homemade. But the last picture looks ok.

Mine goes dormant when not in use and the battery lasts longer than Alvin's.

I believe the 350 block will have the bolt holes for the clutch linkage. If not, it's a fairly simple project to fabricate a bracket from angle iron that attaches with the bellhousing bolts to support the inboard end of the clutch pivot shaft. We used to use slightly modified pickup clutch linkage on the round track cars from the late 1970's which were not sold with manual transmissions originally. On the 1/4 mile tracks we used Muncie 4 speeds in 2nd. gear and 4.10 or 4.56 rear ends to get the right RPM range down those short straightaways. Off the turn at 3K-3500 RPM, and hit 7K 100 yards later before chopping the throttle for the next turn!
Jerry

Waving Old Glory! Another reason I live my community! Happy 4th! 🇺🇸☀️🍉❤️🤍💙
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?st...p;id=716532842&anchor_composer=false

Just remember the Project Journal Forum is for documenting your project and not for asking questions. Let the fun begin!

Love at first sight, just like the better half in my life. 1960 C20 Apache Step Side Long Bed with Beautiful eyes hooked me, and what a great back end too…… the truck!!!! I found this beauty on one of my bike rides in the hills outside Yamhill, Oregon. It was parked over twenty years ago in a seasonal wet spot.. which means that 8 months of the year it sat in 6 to 12 inches of water and rusted from the bottom up. I just snapped or cut off 90 percent of the bolts holding it together. Anyway, I am in way over my head. Purchased a good compressor, paint and sanding equipment, Hobart 140 MIG welder and new tools as needed. No help on this at the house as I know of people out here socializing while they know they have something contagious.... Not worth the risk. But I can come here for info and advice, thank you.

I have shipped the cab off to have it dipped. The cab will need numerous pieces replaced due to rust through. Picked up a nice MIG unit that I really like. Plans are to prime all the areas that will not be cut out and removed. The engine went to a rebuilder in the hills who has been doing these old engines for many years. I am not sure how many parts will get dipped and how many I will sand down to bare metal. So much interior rust on all body pieces. I cannot access many areas with rust which means dipping in acid may be only realistic alternative.

The frame will go out for sand blasting and then get powder coated. I may do the same on front suspension unit and rear end.... too soon to tell as I am still thinking this through. I appreciate all comments and any good advice. More to this story soon.

pictures. 1. Parked in the swampy field 2. On the trailer, going home 3. After first de-tox 4. taking cab off with no extra help 5. down to the frame and running gear

Oh yes. Hub caps for the 17-inch wheels are hard to find. They're out there, but you usually will find one here, two there, three someplace else ... and some will be fine, others not. Sometimes you will find them mixed in with the smaller ones. A tape measure is your friend.

Looking for a 261 carb either rebuilt, or rebuildable.

Chris

Working on my doors on the '48 GMC 1 Ton and would like to get some OEM fasteners. I need 5 clutch head screws for fastening the door latches to the doors, 3 small clutch head screws for the vertical window channel that attaches to the rear of the doors and 3 domed slotted screws for the inspection panels.

I'm also really need 2 domed bumper bolts but 4 would be better as 2 of my existing bolts are marginal. I'm looking for the bolts to be in good condition but they don't have to be for a show truck. If they come with the lock washer and nut, so much the better.

Most of my truck is original and, as I work on different areas, I like to replace the non original parts where possible.

Thanks, Jim

That gray colored material is a "flash coat" of pure tin on later model engines with replaceable bearings. On a poured bearing like yours, I don't have a clue, unless a different alloy might have been used to recondition the main bearings sometime in the past. Lots of strange stuff can happen to an engine in close to 100 years! Look up the "Rotometals" website for a good description of the various alloys of "Babbit" that are available. Babbit metal is a mix of copper, lead, and tin. More copper in the mix gives a brown-looking color and a harder bearing. Chevy used a VERY hard alloy with a lot of copper in the mix for their spray-oiler engines. When I'm machining a connecting rod for an insert bearing I can always tell when I'm whittling on an OEM Chevy rod- - - - -the bearing material dulls the cutter bits a lot faster than one that's been reconditioned with a softer alloy.
Jerry

I will be removing the whole front suspension Assy / torsion bars. Just looking for advice and helpful hints on what to do.... and some questions.
1. I was looking at removing the front suspension and leaving the torsion bars attached. Just remove the torsion bars after everything is disconnecte3d from the frame. Is this a good or bad idea? Is there any danger when removing torsion bars? such as are they under
pressure???
2. I am considering buying a front suspension rebuild kit that includes all the steering linkage and bushings. Is this a good idea and is there a best brand or kit to consider using?
Please toss out any advice and warnings that may apply.... my first major frame off restoration if you had not guessed that .......

Just to be sure, I am working on electrical for a 51 chevy coe. Is it correct that the parking lights don't stay on when the headlights are engaged (with the switch pulled all the way out?) I assume this is correct based on seeing a thread about putting a jumper between the Park and Tail connections on the headlight switch to effectively turn them into running lights, but would like to confirm!

Thx,
Derek

Mine are duals. The pic is the inner dual and the brake backing plate. If running singles, 19.5s would likely fit.

OK, well that's that thanks. I have not yet run across the correct radio in working condition.

Craigslist New Hampshire - 1938 1-1/2 ton truck project . Not mine. Will post here but it may get deleted. Posting it FYI. I know you posted for 1939/40... but seller is offering parts.

Mod Edit: You know it shouldn't be here but you post it anyway??? What's wrong with sending it via PM as you should?

That makes it easy. Thank you

Looks like it's a Farm truck from Nebraska or vicinity. Ogalala Mud flaps.
Also a 1-1/2 ton per the hood emblem.
No title is a minus for sure.

I didn't have any problem with putting a new one on my '40. I bought from Steele. Can't beat them for quality. After refurbishing and painting the frame, I took it all to my local glass shop and had them put it all together!

Dennis

As Carl says “It’s never the carburetor.......until it’s the carburetor “. It’s time to dig into that Rochester and see what’s happening.🛠