The title pretty much says it all. I need to replace the inner and outer cowls (and brace) on my '50 and want to preserve the side vent. I have not seen replacement panels for this, so I am assuming that mean DIY fabrication required. Wondering how to and if anyone has any pics of been there and done that?
How big of can of worms do you want to open? Easiest engine replacement would be to replace the 216 with another 216. You will have some issues if you install anything else; there are many threads on this site where you can read about these issues. Ed pointed out an issue in his post above.
I have a lot of sales resistance and I get spooked when I find out someone is trying to sell me something that it's not advertised to be. Could be an honest mistake, but I worry that there may be other mistakes too.
Not trying hijack this post. But Rick and 2ManyTrucks, seem to have a fair working knowledge of these old radios. I have the 986443, in my 53 3100. Ray Holland restored it for me my around 12-14 years ago. I stored it until installing it my truck in March of 2016. It worked great for about a year. Then, I would get a slight hum for awhile. Then it would go away. One day, I stopped by our bank. Shut the radio and the truck off. Got back in about 5 minutes later. Started my truck, turned on the radio and all I got was static. I can tune it to a few stronger stations. They come it alright. But, not nearly as well as they had before. Thinking it might be something wrong with the antenna, I bought another one. It sounds the same, when I hook it up as well. I happen to have another set of NOS tubes. You guys have any ideas? Again, I am not trying to hijack MtneerMike's post. I want to make sure that he gets his answers first.
Thank you all in advance for your advice and knowledge.
OK, as (I'm sure from my comments/questions it's obvious) a relatively recent Stovebolt owner (of 5 years or so) I don't know if one needs a valve spring compressor or not. And since most folks will take the head to a shop for any freshening up needed it likely a moot point anyway.
My experience in restoration of Sparky, started in late 2009. I learned to pick up any missing or needed parts early or whenever possible and sometimes more than one copy. Stuff is getting harder to find and prices have gone up because of it. I suggest taking and writing down an inventory of what is on hand and making a list of what you find needing replacement or is missing. More than one copy for some pieces may be needed to pick a more usable part without a major headache and or expense otherwise. Also, guys here and elsewhere advised that nothing be parted with until the project is done. Glad I listened, because a few times parts on a piece needed to be changed out to make, for example a hood latch assembly complete. The spare tire carrier, as another example, took several years to collect all the individual pieces. It is now complete. Good luck 46Sparky
nice door panels! i was also concerned with the cardboard door panels i ordered online, so i did an intermediate fix, i just glued some old vinyl school bus seat material to the cardboard before installing the metal trim, time will tell if that's sufficient but if i do it again i'm gonna go this aluminum sheet method, many more seats in the school bus to cut vinyl from, and two colors to choose from, grey or traditional brown
about the roof... yeah... i did such a bad job on the roof, but in my defense, it was my first one, i did it alone, it's a work truck so it didn't need to be show quality i'm sure the second time will be much better -s
I've got one of those sitting, might even have the original switches to go with it. Everything is in original unrestored condition and was never put back in the truck so I have no idea if it works. send me a PM with your email for pics.
be happy it's the plug hole leaking, easy fix one of my 235s sprung a leak in nearly the same spot, but right in the side of the casting, just south west of your leaking block heater it's as if the casting was bad from the factory and just took many years to finally leak my plan is the butter it up with some JB Weld in the spring time. -s
I buy a 235 now and again. I am generally in the 100-150 for a non running but basically all there motor, depending on the condition. If it’s a rusty hulk that’s been sitting outside for 40 years, I probably would not even make an offer. 150-225, sometimes 250, for a running example, all of them the 55-62 motors. I have seen the 700sellers. No dice for me. Too much when you add in the expense to do a proper rebuild.
I am looking for a complete rebuildable Rochester carb for a 235 or 261. I know the 261 version is rare, but it is worth a shot. If you have one for a 261 I would need the matching throttle body as well. Thanks. James
Just do a forum search for "companion cylinder valve adjustment". It works the same way for all stovebolt valves, with either solid or hydraulic lifters. Ditto for any V8 with adjustable valve gear. Jerry
I don't have any experience with these adapters but this one has 5 stars.
Being curious I did alittle checking out and seems you need to either set and leave the radio tuned to the station the adapter is associated with or make sure you have the station programmed on a button you can press to change to the adapters station inorder to make or answer a call.
Most seem to have the ability to either play the music stored on your smartphone via bluetooth or play music stored on a memory stick that's plugged into one of the USB port(s).
Most youngun's stow all their music on their phones anymore as it's rare to see them out and about without ear buds plugged into the heads LOL.
At less and than $20 you ought to check one out and give us a review LOL...