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Valve cover looks like it has the slots in it like my 54 but the oil cap is a vented like the newer models as above need those casting numbers .

Look on the site map on top for stovebolt features click on it and it will show stovebolt topper .Then read the amazing story about these fine crafted toppers by a stovebolt craftsman.

Santa Rosa here

I went with a site that shopped it to a bunch of brokers. I got about 10 different bids. I just read about uship.com on another thread. That might be a good way to go as well.

I purchase a lot form McMaster. Always fast delivery and a very easy website to order. I'm guessing on the size, but try this https://www.mcmaster.com/92356A581/ That is listed as a stainless bolt in case you want that...

Also they sell the clutch head driver bits to remove the interior screws should you need that tool...

Can someone decode this for me?
GMC probably 56 or 57. Serial number: 353 8P Y1502
Tandem dual, 366 engine.
Thanks, Matt

Been a busy day. Just got in the house with time to post a update. Warning, If you ever replace the condenser hold down screw make sure the replacement isn't longer than the original. If it is, it may contact the advance plate or parts thereof (did). Then it gets interesting. The distributor may rotate (did) until something (fine timing adjustment knob) hits something else (side of the block) and stops the distributors rotation.

Yep, that's what happened. As I finished lunch and was headed back to the shop on a different mission, I actually imagined the exact possibility above. Popped the distributor cap, and unscrewed the now bent and difficult to remove screw. Luckily it did back out. I'll likely look at the advance plate tomorrow and see if there's any carnage. Hopefully the springs and counter weights are still in place.

If a dab of luck is around it may be as simple as just doing the ol find TDC, time close enough to crank, then break out the timing light, set timing and get on with life. We'll see.

Dragsix, Great Tutorial!

Thanks all the comments.

RonR

It seems like a long way for gas to go to get out of the butterfly shaft hole from the bowl. It starts & runs good, no hesitation. I will give the shop (Carolina Carburetors https://www.mycarburetordoctor.com/about-us ) that did rebuild on it to find out what they say about it tomorrow.

If you give up on 20” tires, read Grigg’s two articles about wheels and brakes in the Big Bolts section, lives in VA.

Ed

As an adhoc member, please keep me posted with the names of the offenders.

Don

I'm in

I have personally used reproduction Doors on two TF projects and they fit as good as the originals. Professional shop time is 100$ per hour or more, so it doesn't take any time for a shop to rack up more money fixing a rusted out original than what the repo cost. I've also used repo front fenders on my '56 3100.

As others have said, your money ahead to buy the nicest truck you can...a nice paint job will cost $10K or more and that's not including any major rust repair or panel replacement.

Mike B

Gents,

As I reinstall my newly rebuilt 261 (again). I want to ensure my oil is filtered (full flow set up). I have the original filter, but I can’t seem to get it to seal correctly and oil blew all over under my hood last time. Is there a better version that seals up? Is there a trick?

More pics and parts.

Hy Jdennis, welcome, the GM part number for the Pinion Unit, rear wheel cylinder adjusting is 3705288, the spring part number is 592435, hope that helps.

Good Evening,

I decided to take the shot-gun approach and replace everything that 'could' be an issue. My thinking being if it fixed the issue, great, and I can always go backwards to see where the issue was; or not. If it did not fix the issue, at least we would know that new parts everywhere in the ignition 'should' eliminate the ignition as the issue.

As my coil is long obsolete, my parts guy crossed it and had the crossed coil in stock. It is a 12V coil. NO EXTERNAL RESISTOR NEEDED is printed on the coil. Furthermore, the instructions say in bold print NOT TO USE WITH A RESISTOR OR RESISTOR WIRE. So, new coil - check.

I removed the old points and while they were not perfect, they were not the worst I have seen. There was, however, evidence of arcing. I am not sure I would say pitted, but certainly not great. So, new points - check.

I did not bother testing the old condenser, since I was going for parts and they are - in the big picture, rather inexpensive. I will check the old condenser and see what it shows on a meter. So, new condenser - check.

In reading online I found the points should be set to .016 for this motor. Points are set to .016 with feeler gauge. While setting the points I noticed the rotor can spin - if I try to spin it - almost enough to come off a lobe. Not quite, but almost. Is that too much 'free' rotational movement? It is moving the entire shaft, it's not the rotor moving on the shaft.

The motor seems to have more power and after the longest drive around the countryside, including some decent hill climbs, I would say the issue is less prevalent, yet not completely gone. After 15, or so, minutes of driving I believe I have less power. Additionally, when I am really into the foot feed and let off, I get a backfire. This happens whether driving and letting off the foot feed or revving the engine and letting off. The backfire is out of the exhaust, not the carburetor, as I tested after dark to be sure. I am not sure if it matters, but it is a backfire on one of the last three (3) cylinders, as it comes out of the the 'back' manifold.

There is a noticeable hesitation coming off idle if you goose it. If you roll into the foot feed, it is smooth all the way from idle to red line. (I have no idea what red line is, as I do not have a functioning tach, but suffice to say it is as wide open as it will go.) If you goose it, you can just about stall it, if you do not let off the foot feed. This is not a new issue, just an issue I did not previously mention.

I did NOT gap the plugs before the test drive. I did pull them, once things cooled off a bit, and set all of them to .039, which is what I found online. (Between .036 and .040 is what I read.) All of the plugs looked exactly the same. I would describe them as tan in color on the electrode (both center and side - if that makes sense) and black on the ring around the bottom, below the threads. I can post a photograph if my description is not painting the picture. It is worth note that all of the plugs were gapped to @.019 when I pulled them.

I am all ears on where we go next and expect, I think, it will be the carburetor. Since we may be going here, and I am not sure why this just now dawned on me, it is worth mentioning that I am running a Rochester B - single barrel carb, with the hot-air choke. A massive air cleaner, which looks like an old oil-bath, but is not. I have not the first idea if it is correct, but it came on the engine so I have been using it. Again, if photographs of any/all of this is helpful, please let me know and I will take and post them.

Thanks,

Joshua L. Coder

PM sent

Hy Kipparham, are you sure the banjo bolt section is not removable from the brake hose? Your pictures show up too small to tell. The possible hoses I checked, none had a banjo bolt connection.

I really didn't want for the "Death Trap" to take away from working on my own 59' so I dove into the brake system for a start. After the truck was on the lift (man I love my lift) and I made a thorough examination, most of the lines are decent, the master cylinder is junk, the brake hoses are dry rotted and the brake light switch leaks. I pulled the master cylinder off and found more issues (surprise) the pedal assembly was just barely making contact. I proceeded to remove the pedal assembly and have a look.

On the drive home I had thought the distance between the gas and brake pedal was not nearly enough and the pedal was too high from the floor. I had thought to move the brake pedal over a bit while having the assembly out. I torn the assembly down and cut the arm bushing down by 1/2 inch and replaced the bolt and bushings for a tighter fit. This moved the pedal over but still not quite enough, it did however take a lot of the slop and movement out of the pedal arm. I mocked up a vacuum booster I had let from the 59' and made a pattern to drill the mounting holes in the firewall, I will add a backing plate to the inside as there was nothing to support the assembly before. I have a duel master cylinder, again left from the 59', that I will add once it's all bolted together. I will need to add a link to the pedal arm to give me some more room to adjust the travel, it's a little to close to the firewall.

I made a parts list for my BIL , a 4 wheel disc proportioning valve, a couple of 2 Lbs residual pressure valves (overkill maybe but it will give a firmer pedal), new brake hoses and a dozen brake line clamps. Once all the parts come in I can work on the reset of the brakes.

Now this is what our "hobby" is all about. In the end it will make you stand a little taller to know you did it. Congrats and keep on trucking brother.

Yep, both use the exact same differential.

Ira, two questions:
1. will you sell separately?
2. will you ship (Fastenal, U-ship, etc?) Will typically require strapping to a pallet.

If you've received one of the new ones, please use the screw holding your current condenser in place. A member here told me the new screw can be struck by the counterweight (didn't do this in the distributor I have here), so I'm having some shorter ones made. I'll be gone for a week and I think it will take 2 weeks for those to arrive here...main point is don't use the one I sent you. Sorry. Didn't realize some of the Delco distributors ran so much closer to the floor plate.

Start the upper right bolt loosely into the bell housing but don't apply any pressure to the trans case. Push the clutch pedal down to free up the disc. The trans input shaft and the pilot bushing will align and the trans will slip into place.
Jerry

On a 1950's GMC truck.

It's a large oil bath air cleaner typically used on big trucks.
Judging by the picture provided, it looks special-made.
The band or clamp may be spot welded to the air cleaner at a few points.
There are 2 square nuts held captive by the band.
The tightening rod is probably 8 inches long and threaded about 3 inches on one end.

You can find generic v-bands at parts stores or on the Internet. ​
They are used on plumbing for turbos (hi-tech engines) and exhaust pipes (tractors etc.).
Most likely you will have to modify the clamp to fit your purpose.