Well all just trying to fix all the annoying bits with the bus. The bus Carburetor was playing up so managed to find an exchange one over here cured the bad running but when you stop like when fueling up its difficult to re start. If you leave it for a while it starts no problem.When it starts again it runs a great. I have done all the usual things points ,condenser,check & adjusted timing ,check & adjusted float level , checked & adjusted mixture.It always started fine with the old worn carb so is pointing to the recon carb any idea anyone. Thanks Andy.
Your factory frame is made out of "U" channel. Boxing it means welding plate steel on the open side of the "U", along the frame rails, so that you have a frame that is no longer a "U" channel- it becomes a "box" (it is now rectangular tubing, of sorts..) The stock frame was designed to flex, and it flexes a great deal- not the greatest thing for race car. Boxing the frame usually includes adding tubular cross members to stiffen the frame even further.
I just read another thread and someone mentioned an original fender with a spare tire well is hard to find and that you could possibly sell it for twice what a reproduction fender without a well would cost. Am I missing something or why do not all original fenders have the spare tire well?
I'd try Hot Rod Lincoln, Jerry's recipe show here;
Re: Coolant temperature increase at idle [Re: Stove] #1197596 30/12/16 05:55 PM
Hotrod Lincoln There are two main cooling passage contaminants, and they respond to different treatments. I've never used CLR in a cooling system, but it's a good idea. I used technical grade Hydrochloric acid (muriatic) in the really rusty ones, 3 or 4 ounces of acid to a full fill of water and the thermostat removed. (no antifreeze) Run the engine with about half the radiator covered with cardboard to raise the operating temp. (Don't let it boil). Follow up with a fresh fill of water and a box of baking soda to neutralize the acid. Flush thoroughly and refill with a 50/50 water antifreeze mix.
For greasy crud, I use a can of drain-cleaning lye and water, plus 1/2 a cup of Tide. Circulate until hot, flush, and refill with water/antifreeze. Most commercial "radiator flush" products are far too weak to do any good. If the freeze plugs aren't new, be aware you might uncover some weak spots and cause seep leaks with this process. Jerry
Thanks guys! Good advice and your experiences count and are very much appreciated!
I agree Truckernix! I too am trying to save these beasts from a destiny with the crusher!
All the body parts are staight and clean. Should make someone's dreams come true! The frames are solid and straight. Sheet metal is intact, complete and in great shape. The running gear is good albeit it hasnt run in quite a while. Parting it out or using as a donor vehicle could easily put a serious smile on someone's mug! In fact, I would suggest using these as host rigs as they are in good shape for their age and storage conditions!! Being on the west coast, it seems most collectors I run into are from back east, up in Canada or in the American upper midwest (salt and rust country!) Quite a distance and can see the hesitancy of snagging one and trying to figure a way to get them home.
I just cant justify going to the crusher so I guess they'll sit where they are for a while more. If anyone knows of anyone else looking, please let them know--- I just dont want to start parting them out. Gotta let them go intact and complete.
Thanks to all and if there are more ideas, let's have them... each thought is much appreciated- Thanks-
PS: Freedom isnt free... Enjoy this Memorial Day holiday fully and remember it's true meaning is not simply fun and BBQs or the start of Summer- but a somber reflection upon those that gave their all so we CAN enjoy our freedoms. To all those that served: Thank you for your service and your sacrifices in the name of freedom. ...and that certainly includes our Canadian brothers in arms as well... Semper Fi
Actually, not saying the radiator doesn’t need refreshing but downshifting and getting the rpm into the mid 2,000 range can help by speeding up the fan, moving more air through the radaitor. And you’re not lugging the engine. Proper shifting makes for a happy truck!
Thanks guys. I appreciate the responses. Still I think there must be some acid that would dissolve the stuff. I'm just pouring it in the water pump opening until it reaches the top and letting it run to the back (which from the angle of this engine and length I assume would be about an inch and a half maybe 2 inches deep at the rear of the engine. Since I can not replace that rear plug and since I don't know if was steel nor brass I don't want to threaten it with the wrong acid. The CLR did wash quite a bit of crud out of there. For this purpose I have a nylon barb fitting screwed into the drain hole. Maybe I need to repeat that and leave it for a week or two. Or maybe as Jerry said, muriatic acid is the thing and just pour it in there with no dilution. The side plugs are steel. I can check them easily with a magnet. Thanks again. Jon
Next, I'll give it a wash and put it back in my shop. I have a few things to move out of the way first. No passenger fender because next will be fabricating brackets for the AC compressor and installing that system.
Thanks Victor. It was a nice challenge to bring the final pieces of the puzzle together, especially for a truck that John couldn't find replacement body panels. I even put him to work a few times when push came to shove!
To keep an 8V battery charged properly, the regulator had to be set to 9.25 volts or so. That was rough on bulbs, particularly headlights. Very few 8V conversions got set up properly, and the ones that did had problems with burned-out bulbs and short point life.. Jerry
Thanks for the help, I understand a bit better now, I did have the pinion ring backwards I noticed where the retainer bolts had left thier mark on it which confermed that, I managed to take off and re press the bearing with no damage so, so far so good I guess