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yes

The window fits in the opening, Tim. But not much room around it. The "glass guy" said that the glass needed to have 1/4" space all around when placed into the opening. He ordered a glass from a manufacturer in Canada and is going to compare it to the glass I purchased from Classic Chevy (made in Taiwan).
The Original windshield was fine other than a crack down the middle from top to bottom and a couple of BB strikes. I never thought to keep the old glass when I removed it. I measured the cross section of the Steele Rubber window gasket and it measures .325" from the top of the base to the bottom of the window groove. At a 1/4 space all around it would compress the gasket .075". Does that sound right?

Sweet ... Mike and I are tentatively planning on meeting at Chaptico Park at 0700 which puts us at the Sheetz NE side of Freddy burg about 0745 ish ... We can call you when we're leaving Mechanicsville, but we'll coordinate offline.

Yep, did floors, rockers, cab corners, door bottoms, and the hardest was above the windshield. Strange but fenders, inner fenders and box sides all good, was not much wood left in bed either. This truck sat under hemlock trees for 25 years, everything was set up.

Get your engine to TDC on compression stroke and remove the distributor cap. See where the rotor is pointing. Either wire from there or lift distributor and turn the rotor to line up where it should.🛠

Was the noise there b4 you serviced the clutch? If not, you did it. Look at what you may of changed. If there is a carrier bearing? Make sure you didnt install the retainer backwards. It really looks like it wouldnt matter, but it does. Trust me, i learned the long way..

Very nice/appropriate song, Jerry [google.com]

Thanks, Tim

That's possible. I'll take a look. Thanks.

I’ll let you know about the Rampage unit. I bought one today.

Mar-K = Made in America!

Nova kit did come with a wiring diagram but I don't know how to post it. If you go to Nova Alternator Conversion kit there is a diagram there.

Those two leaky areas are not difficult to fix. There is a seal which rides on the plastic speedometer gear shaft. Make sure the plastic shaft isn't worn. You can find seal kits on ebay with or without the speedometer gear.
TH350s have a lot of fluid in them, and puddles on the floor always look like more fluid than what is actually there.
The torque converter holds a lot of fluid which migrates into the pan over time, giving you an over-full reading on the dipstick.
You need to drive the truck until the transmission reach full operating temperature, and the fluid gets distributed inside the transmission where it belongs before checking the fluid level while the engine is running.

Part 1: it is a capital I stamped next to the B not a number 1. The capital IB is what I thought was weird. Maybe it was mistakenly stamped like that because I can not find an IB code anywhere. Im not sure.

Part 2: what I'm asking is, is the number after CE on the other 250 I have just a numeric serial number with no meaning other than its number 804582 or is that a code like on the factory installed engines.

Here are some better pics of the plug and some of the problem areas.

Still not sure if I should try to unplug it or even remove it at all. to me those pins don't look like they should be pulled out or pried on.

If it is just the protective coating that has come off is the copper underneath it ok? I can see the copper on some of it but other parts are just white not sure if the copper is under that or missing.

I will still be checking continuity later this evening and get back with the results.

Thank you all again for your help. I would much rather ask stupid questions here than screw up parts that were basically okay to begin with.

Oh, we have culture/language/translation problem here, triplet : in most of the English-speaking world (outside of the USA), the bonnet would be the hood [google.com].

By the way, in a car/automobile:
the "boot" would be the trunk
the "wings" would be the front fenders

I have some but after selling to other people I have found there are several different styles of this seat . Can you post a pic of the ones you want? Thanks

The instructions, I think, are"

• Either browse for your images or drag and drop. The
attachment manager will only do one at a time.

• If your images are larger than 5MB, they won’t be
accepted (see next step) and you’ll need to resize them.

• Click “done” once you’ve finished selecting images.

However, you can browse/etc on a real computer, but, I think that type of "browsing" might be difficult/impossible on a phone/tablet?

I have a '64 club cab C10 the Rail Road is a term used to describe the body my truck has. We put the '64 on a '98 Z71 C10 chassis with a 5.7 V8 a 4L60 trans and the 98 rear end.
To make it all work we cut the firewall at the belt-line harvesting the floor pan to the front of the seat location. We also harvested the frame-body mounts from the '64 chassis utilizing them to mount the body onto the '98 chassis. We harvested the '64 rear coil spring suspension, grafted it onto the 98 chassis. We also harvested the front frame horns from the '64 for the '64 front bumper.
The use of the '98 firewall allowed the retention of the brake booster, peddle assy and a GM tilt column.. We used a Painless wiring harness on the eng/trans and chassis. The truck handles very nicely, smooth and quite. Had some problems with the electrical system, turned out one of the guys that re-programed the ECM for me screwed the unit up, it took me three different shops and almost 1.5 years to get the problem resolved. Had to buy a new ECM to solve the problem. Wm .

THANKS Mike 69 Cuda . . .

Next time I lift off the seat bottom, this should help me find the attachment holes. Your answer makes sense. Seems easy, like most things . . . once you know how they work!!

I doubt I will make use of sliding the seat . . . I would really like the seat to go back further rather than forward . . . long legs & short trunk!! :-)

You're in Southern California. No need to change weights at all. I'd wager $100 that you've rarely seen below freezing. If you were in Alaska, then maybe, but I run 15W-40 in my diesel year round up here.
[on edit] Went back and saw that you're in Missouri now (you should change your profile location.) You'll still be fine with 15W40 year round. It might occaisionally get colder there than in SouthCentral Alaska, but still OK.

Rickmg,
I live in Troy
Jon

I'll check the pressure. These plugs are different than those behind the bell housing, correct?

Cool car Kenny. Glad you found us. The ideal spot to share your picture would be the sub forum for daily drivers in the Greasy Spoon.

Welcome to the Stovebolt.

John

Nice rebuilt ‘40-‘46 Windshield crank. Glass beaded, polished, worm gear reworked with steel shims. New crank handle. Great tongue.
$250 with free shipping for Stovebolters.

Fall Carlisle is October 1-3. No Hershey swap meet this year, so Art Deco Delights will be set up in the Carlisle Infield all 3 days. Spaces II-110, 111. Look for our trailer. All the ‘37-‘46 parts will be there. One decent front fender, one rear fender needs work, lots of headlight, grille, gauge parts. Stop and say hi.

I’ll be at the Winchester show Friday, weather permitting. I can bring parts along but you must pre-arrange.

No substitute for quality, and these are quality.