I have a 1959 261 engine and need to replace the pulley on my alternator with a wider one to match the crank and water pump pulley. Seems to be 5/8 inch wide . Any ideas as to were I might find one of these?

Thanks for any ideas.

That's awesome. Thanks for sharing your story!

GMC small trucks sometimes had two-piece wheels in 47-55st years that Chevrolet had one piece wheels. I do not know what years - by 1954, they might have been 1 piece wheels.

Kevin,

Here are a few threads with discussion on upholstery kits/parts and the "barrel" clips (also follow links in those threads).

Note carefully the need for one more layer of material (that Jim Carter omits).

https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/1232638/seat-disassembly.html
https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/1229050/54-3100-bench-seat-clips.html

The "barrel" clips are a royal pain to remove, and to install.

A side story of course. After I had just gotten my original engine back from a complete overhaul my mechanic said, you know I think I have a 261 in the back room. But I am glad I can say it has the original engine and it has been fine for 36 years.

vette1968 ,

I sent you a pdf.file by email .

G.

Measure your drum diameter and width, I believe the SM-420's from the 50's had 8 x 2-1/2" Drums...is that what you have?

Have you searched for companies like this one in Canada? They can re-line it for you...

http://www.midwestbrake.com/riveted_bolted_brake_bands.php

Mike B

If you're going to have employees driving your truck you may want to keep the governor to prevent over revving the engine when shifting up from the lower gears.

Mike B

Good looking old truck!
Welcome!

Thanks for the attachment...looks like it will work. Hopefully, I've been making too much work out of this...will let you know. I live in Knoxville, Sprint Car Capital of the World!
We're Hawkeye fans...in Iowa City for the Rutgers game.

PA outlaws should certainly come down and hang out with VA outlaws! I have always enjoyed time spent with the ODSS crowd !

Here is the Stovebolt.com Tech Tip on bypass oil filters.
It might help you ID your filter?

Great to see another Michigander join in the fun. Welcome!
--Tom

Removed the Fresh Air Heater Box to restore it. Going to clean up, and repaint the box. Replace the leaking heater core, and replace the blower motor while I have it all apart..

Perfect - Thanks again, Gord!

I may have the one in the left side, round button... let me check. Mike

It looks like the 1954 car and truck bumper guards are different?

Took it to the “fly in” air/car show today. It was a hit. Never even opened the hood hehehe. The purists were in love

Just regular red stuff that's used in newer automobiles.

My great uncle used to add transmission fluid to the gas tank, because he thought it cleaned the carb & engine. So it seemed to me that it would work in the oil bath. From now on maybe I'll add regular motor oil instead.

Thanks gentlemen, I found a NIB unit at a discount price that a fellow bought and decided not to use.

Soak the fastener in PB blaster or some other penetrant for a few days. That should help dissolve the rust. If that doesn’t work try heating the nut.

In addition to the nut there are spacers between the backing plate and the steering yoke that also get rusted on the bolt. I needed to heat those spacers to get them off too.

I am looking for a 2 ton frame with about a 160 inch wheelbase for a 48 to 53 GMC.

What inn tarnation. it is an intersting concept tho. what's under the hood?

Agreed on the guess bit. That is why I'm looking for specs. I like to have, at the very least, an educated guess.

Simplest would of course be to run a manual with PTO, auto is just a convenience, the "HTO", shall we call it, is just an interesting proposition. It would of course require more research on what HP motor would be needed, flow of the PS pump or other pump, etc. More theory crafting.

You need to drain the block too. On the drivers side back near the bell housing you'll see the petcock or where the petcock should be (if someone removed it and plugged it).
If when you open the petcock and it just dribbles out, remove the petcock and it should gush out. IF not, probe into the block with a metal coat hanger and probe around as deep as it'll go until it does gush out. It should carry the debris out with it.

The water jacket around cyl's 5 & 6 being lowest tend to collect the most crud. Sometimes enough to where the coolant can't encircle the cyl's enough to carry heat away.

I'd recommend draining from the block 1st so theres enough fluid capacity to help clear the crud.

Good luck
Dave