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On my 1950 1/2 ton there are no door hinge springs to keep the door open. I have done the search and I am confused whether the door needs to be removed and which spring is for the upper or lower on the top hinge. There were non present on my truck, only a broken piece of one in the hinge area. I have the kit, my doors fit good and shut good.How difficult is this for those who have done it? I have printed the tech artical on doing this.Truck has been sitting since 1992, but never has a screw been hard to screw out, lucky I guess. As one said in the search that not having them present is driving him crazy, me too. I am working on the interior and use a 4x4 block to hold the door open. Never fails that I try to shut the door without removing the wood block from the jamb.

I bled my 2 ton with a home-made pressure bleeder, ended up doing it a 2nd time, before I got a good brake pedal. What bore is the master cylinder that came with the truck? On my 2 ton, the outside of the master looks like the same one that was on my 1//2 ton Suburban.

One problem with expelling the paint from the nozzle with the can upside down is it exhausts the propellant before all the paint is used up. Latest ones just say wipe the nozzle off after use. I've had OK success with that. I have also soaked the nozzles in paint thinner as well.

Rolled beads are not necessary on intake plumbing unless unusual alignment is required.

Ed

Re-prime.

Saw a '65 C10 for sale in Redgate, MD. If any one is rich enough, comes with 2 engines (350 + 327 I believe), 2 transmissions (3 speed w/overdrive + automatic) and lots of rust on floor pan; top passenger side bed panel torn over the wheel. Was originally brought from Oregon. And you can have it ALL for just $12000. If anyone REALLY is interested in this one of a kind find, I'll get some pictures. It isn't in too bad a shape and it does run so......
SD

Deleted some off-topic posts.
Please continue on topic.

Glad you are keeping the dream alive I’m having a holiday in the USA meeting Stovebolt people that is good as well

Sir, Got it! Makes sense relative to appraisal purposes & my projects will be passed down to my next of kin, so hadn't thought on that angle. Thanks fox. V/r, Nick

If you look at Page 4-10 of the service manual (the rear axle section), it says to put 1/2 pint of transmission lubricant thru the hole at the rear of the transmission. It says nothing about lubricating the u-joint in the transmission and u-joint sections.

Unless they came from Steele, don't count on them. Chinese rubber garbage disintegrates if you look at it sideways. Seriously, rubber parts rotting on a vehicle that has never been on the road in less than a year after installation is a story I've heard more than once.

I could only find the one number on both steering knuckle. I found something that looked like a number on the drivers side steering knuckle that looked like a number but it was illegible. The truck I'm almost 100 percent sure is a 55 or 56, and my guess is the napco is same age as well. Both knuckles are different, i know that. I included a picture of both steering knuckle numbers, as well as the truck vin # and front grill.

Welcome to the 'bolt... did anyone mention that we love pictures?

This auction has a lot of very interesting cars and truck.
I'll be going to the preview, anyone want to join me?

https://www.wheelerauctions.com/schedule/wellsville-missouri-absolute-personal-property-sale/

Don

Luke,
sending you a G-mail with pics.
Marty

Billy, you have a good memory.


John's Saga - I never wanted to be a fireman is a fun story, that also covered some of Gary's wonderful qualities.

Right about then, at that particular junction along Life's path when you could most use one of Yoggi Berra's forks and all Life hands you is a dead end, "Slim" swaggered back in. "Slim" had taken the form of my ATHS friend and antique firetruck expert, Gary. I was fresh out of ideas, motivation, excitement or anything else that would move this scheme off top dead center and I needed a different perspective. So I called Gary.

"Let's go get it," Gary said matter of factly. Huh?

Go read the rest of it.

Well that's some great news!

Going to leave this ad up until you come back and let us know it's not needed any more.

Maybe you post a pic or 2 when you get it???

Dan

Update on turn signals.
This is what I ended up with calling out the steering harness first.

White to white
Purple to purple
Pink to yellow
Dk blue to Dk blue
Yellow to green
Lt blue to Lt blue
Black to black

Now the weird side.

Right side works fine.
Left side only rear works. No power to it. Hmm
When the signal arm is all the way up the right side work. Ok
Bad to neutral and left rear works
All the way down and all are off

Got me scratching my head. Any ideas

The process you describe does work for this seal too.

The shop manual actually says to remove the seal "... by prying it out of the cover from the front with a large screwdriver.".

Dan

That's great. Now you can stop worrying about the truck and go relax in the Cee-ment pond!

If you do end up sealing the bare metal with epoxy primer, just make sure to do a thorough clean up of the metal first.
Failure to do that will ruin any kind of primer.

Shipping in the best of days would eat your lunch and dinner indeed. About 5 years or so ago I tried to give one of those away free for the cost of shipping. No takers on any of the forums I participate in. Sorry but I let the metal scavengers have it.

moeman59,

Attached is a picture taken from "keithfielder"s ad on Detroit Craigslist.

Hope this helps you out.

Dan

moeman 59,

Just a reminder that your ad is required to include asking prices for each item, unless you are selling them as a whole group which requires just one price.

Please update your post to include prices to keep the ad post up.

Also just a suggestion, you may want to add some pictures of what you are offering and indicate if you might be inclined to ship stuff or not.

Best Regards,

Dan

It should never backfire. You may have found the main problem but not all of them.

Keep searching for more vacuum leaks and check all the other stuff we mentioned.