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Maybe these tanks are made for the later models (Ed's 55), but it sure is an imperfect fit in my early '49 3600. Anyway, it's in now and nothing leaks.

BUT ... !!! .... TGP -- Just gotta say, that is one gorgeous truck! Why is it not in our new Gallery section? With a lot of pictures??? Man, I like that truck!

Thanks John for the comment and everything you and Peggy do for us here.

I added the truck to the gallery.
Tom

So I have reread through the entire 14 pages of this thread and am impressed at the effort made by Bartamos in particular and others in trying to solve Jimmys issue. One thing that I missed on the first read was the latest compression test results. Cylinder #6 had a reading of 70 and then 0 during a subsequent test. I don't recall any mention about oil pressure PSI or the removal of the valve covers to see if the top end (much less the rest of the engine)is being properly lubricated. A reading of 70 PSI and then 0 would indicate to me that a component is sticking for a low reading of 70, or a reading of 0 indicating (to me at least) either a stuck lifter in the block bore or inadequate lubrication of the rocker shaft (which would affect the travel of all the rocker arms), or both, resulting in at least some if not all,valves not closing or opening effectively causing low compression readings. I would also suspect possible cam lobe damage as well. To state the obvious, head gaskets and timing chains are not going to momentarily repair themselves and then fail. Also, metal components, as we all know, expand when they heat up and contract when they cool.

I am more convinced than ever, based on what I have read, that the issue is lubricant related. If it were my engine, I would first remove the valve covers and assess how much fresh oil is visible on the rocker arm shaft, rocker arms and head in general ( it will also provide a good general assessment of the lubrication of the engine parts not visible). If lubrication is fresh and obviously sufficient, I would then assess the condition of the pushrods (at piston TDC you should be able to spin them with your fingers); if they look to be unbent I would proceed to turn the engine over BY HAND (wrench on crankshaft) and assess the rocker arm and valve travel. If all rockers and valves seem to be moving freely, I would then adjust all the valves, one cylinder at a time, and then do another compression test. Compression test readings are always going to be low if the engine has not been warmed up; as in this situation that is not possible, look for consistently close readings between cylinders (10 to 20 PSI would be optimal). Using a oil can to spray oil into the cylinder top and wall gap with oil before testing will temporarily help seal the ring / bore gap and raise the PSI reading. Two adjacent cylinders having a low reading in contrast to normal readings in the other cylinders often indicates a 1 blown head gasket, 2 a cracked cylinder wall between the cylinders, and 3 a cracked head; all three are most often a result of overheating the engine.

Having done all that and everything looks good, I would imagine it would come back around to timing and ignition settings. Below I have provided some valve and ignition info that hopefully will help get it going, from the Service trade Edition of Motor Truck and Diesel Repair Manual 28th Edition:

1966 GM 305-E V-6 engine:
Spark Plug 45ns Plug GAP .035
Distributor Point Gap .019 Timing Mark 5 degrees Firing Order 1-6-5-4-3-2
Valve Lash Intake .012 HOT Exhaust .018 HOT ( Cold, I would look for intake .015 to .017 and exhaust .021 to .024 and plan on readjusting them once the engine is running and hot ). Valve spring pressure (LBS @ inch length) 200 @1 1/2
Compression Pressure at cranking Speed 135 PSI

Valve Adjustment Procedure (verbatim from manual): With engine at operating temperature and rocker arm covers removed, turn adjusting nut on each rocker arm until proper clearance is obtained between valve stem and rocker arm.
Best of luck

Well I'll be! Sometimes these things are just crazy. Glad I could be of help!

Are they for the cars or trucks, they are different...

Mike B

You won't hurt the truck by jacking if from any location where you can safely put the jack so it won't slide/kick out.

As 78buckshot said, make sure you have it properly supported before you get under it. Make sure you use truck size jack stands, the one's for cars might have the ton rating, but the tend to have a smaller footprint and are not as stable. Also, make sure you're on firm level ground.

Mike B

Brought some steering parts for my `60 last spring from NAPA, inside box bag labeled "Rare Part Stockton CA.
Good quality.

20 Mercman Great family project,very lucky its already running more pictures please as you progress !

I recently got the bottom end of my 235 engine buttoned up so it was ready to get off the engine stand and set it into the frame. Before I could do that, I needed to get the new brake lines installed. Instead of buying a 25' roll of tubing (I would never need that much), I chose to go with pre-made sections (with fittings) from my local NAPA. I planned out the runs so that I'd have a minimum of cutting/flaring to do, and a minimum of fittings. I used 1/4" nickel coated copper tubing which was very easy to shape by hand (although I used a tubing bender for the tight turns). Both the front and rear circuits have 10 lb. residual valves installed right at the master cylinder. While I was able to complete the circuit to the front brakes, I did not finish the run to the rears. I still need to purchase an adjustable proportioning valve which will go in the line near the rear axle.

Once the brake lines were in place, and I had put my clutch and brake pedals back on, I was finally able to set the engine into the frame. This was a big milestone and I celebrated with a couple pints of Guiness afterwards.

Turning away from the engine project for a little bit, I decided to work on my front brake situation. To recap, I am converting my 3/4 ton truck from Huck to Bendix brakes on the front. I was able to acquire a pair of backing plates from another Stovebolter not too long ago, which got the project moving in the right direction. What I didn't know at the time, though, was that the '53-'59 3/4-ton brakes also have a separate sheet metal piece that slips over the spindles to close off the openings in the backing plates (spaces needed to allow the backing plates to clear the turn stops). Instead of searching for a pair of these covers, I decided to make them myself. They are made of 18 ga. sheet metal and 1/4 sections of EMT conduit. I used a plasma cutter to cut out the sheet metal bits, and then put it all together with my mig welder. When the cover was all welded together and dressed out, I temporarily bolted it to the backing plate, chucked it up in the lathe and bored the spindle hole. A little tweaking of the bolt holes later and the first one is ready to be painted.

Mrwad3 These frames are made of a-36 frame steel(tough and strechy) wouldn't use mild steel to repair. Find a shop that can bend you up a crossmemberask the alignment shop where it is. Also would leave the rivited structure alone,its why your truck can flex and cross ditches and stay in one unit...for years. Good find !! That other frame would work good too !

46 chevy mom Glad to see Bruno!! great truck I am in illinois near Hutsonville bridge. maybe see you live !! My advice keep it running if at all possible. So you dont lose-out !!

jtroberts Can make your own HEI at home w/ simple tools

No alternator/starter shops in southern oregon, and even worse in bigger cities. Muffler shops are dropping like flys because the cars newer then 30 years old are all bolted together, and any mechanic can do the work. The muffler shops ive been to ask crazy prices because they only get a few jobs a month and need to pay the rent on only a few jobs. add to that, no one bends pipes by hand any longer. I did exhaust work for over 20 years and ive been tempted to prebend pipes to original specs to sell, but im too old to start a dying trade.lol

Sorry, I failed to post it. I fixed it in the original post.

EdPruss If voltage is right--should be easy to wire,and enough RPM to prime and charge. Another way on low RPM stuff have belted primary,secondary to get more speed to charge aat idle worked good !

John Any idea why my posts disappear then reappear or never appear again ???

sounds good to me. i can get the patch panel for the radio, and ill be welding tons of sheet metal anyway...lol. let me know how to shoot ya payment. Im glad a good dash wouldnt have to be cut up just for that part. But i wonder why the dash you have has the part i need covered up. did they all come with heaters? i still have to find out where the vent cables go...but i have an assembly manual coming, so a lot of questions will be answered..

Rear oil seal 55 1st series,3600,235ci, 3 on column. Is it a rubber seal or the cord type? Can it be installed without dropping crank shaft down? Thank you from Dennis

I recently came apon a 1954 235 motor that was on a wood pallet at an auction. I have no way of knowing its history but bought it for the cylinder head needed for another 235 that had a cracked head. After getting it home and finding that it was not stuck, I then checked the top end that was very clean. Someone at some time in the past had cleaned the motor, painted parts seperately and had installed new freeze plugs. It was not a recent repaint and showed signs of some useage. I plan to try to fire it up on a test bed and hope I get lucky. The flywheel was missing and I noticed that the large freeze plug that is behind the flywheel up high was missing. There was a ridge recessed in the freeze plug opening in the block, perhaps machined in from the factory to keep a replacement plug from being pounded in too far or I wonder if it was the remains from another plug. I looked at another motor I have stored and it looks like the plug was installed backwards with the cupped end facing inward with the back side flush with the block. I hope someone has remembered doing this install and can advise me as to which way to put in the new plug. Also, can I buy just the one plug ? I don't want to make any mistakes on this one being that it is behind the flywheel. George

JonG Long ago on one of my first trucks the switch got stiff so I took out the knob slid a WD 40 tube way in there discharged it and pulled out spraying. Switch worked fine after that,do you see any problem doing that ??

Never had much luck with saginaw 4speeds. One good speed shift from first to second would usually break it

The fine folks at the Filling Station suggest painting the back side of a headliner to keep moisture that will develop on the cab metal surface from damaging the headliner over time. Anyone have any suggestions on what kind I should use that could be applied with a brush or roller ? Using a spray on clear coat concerns me that it might not be pliable enough.

The jegs style speedo drive box or cable X always seemed to be a easy fix for stuff i put together. Im just about to use one in another stovebolt that I’ve been helping work on.

Exactly! The rear leaf springs are different in the position of the centering pins.

I have always used a hot guitar string (G), take 2 wooden dowels drill a very small hole through them run the string in one side then tie it to the other with some needle nose pliers, heat the G string with a propane torch (be careful not to get it to hot). you can cut any shape you need just don't burn yourself or anything you love.