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Anyone going to Truck Carlisle this weekend?

I'll be there with the '56 pickup parked with the ATHS guys on the East side of Pavilion "A", which is on the far East side of the grounds.

Mike B

Another thing that sometimes helps is to take the cable and use it like a whip and hit the garage floor a few times. Helps to break the rust loose and get it moving again.

Looking good!
Welcome to the Bolt!

If your '47 has 2-piece rims with a solid lock ring, you're fine. Those are not the outlawed widow maker RH-5's and are still serviced by big truck and Ag tire shops.

If you were to find late 50's 10-lug 22.5's they will have a larger center hole (5.25") and would require a reducing bushing to make them fit your (4.75") hubs.

Mike B

I’m getting ready to reassemble a W-1 carb and noticed there is a slight bend in the metering rod.
Is this normal?
If it is normal does it matter which way it goes on?

I’m pretty sure it’s a 684s because of the flat rod that runs up to the choke if that makes a difference.

BTW it’s going back on a 1940 216.
Thanks for the help

How did it go? Have you successfully replace the dash pad on your car?

Here's my take on your serial number...

5 = Kansas
VK = 1952 4400
B = Month (Feb)
1191 = Unit number starting with 1001 for each series. So you have the 191st VK out of Plant 5.

Mike B

Sounds like a good idea, thanks Jerry

Check valve in the fuel pump is stuck open...

Mike B

The "50 Year" tag is just to recognize the vehicle's age, it's not permanent yet...once it turns 60 years old it qualifies for the "Permanent" sticker to be placed on the "50 Year" tag.

Here's the link to all you need to know!

https://mva.maryland.gov/about-mva/Pages/info/27300/27300-28T.aspx#historic

Mike B

Did you get your truck going Captain ?

Definitely going to be there .

Jim

...and to add another view. I've had real good results with POR-15. Some prep work, like anything else, is needed but POR15 is some tuff stuff. Its "my choice". ....like I said, just another view point and I've used it on 3 vehicles so far. Chassis and floor pans.

Curses. This is the wrong forum. Can I get this moved to body? I was on the wrong tab...


My 58 has a pretty big section of the driver side fender that is collapsed and I want to put in a patch panel for it. Unfortunately the damage is about 14" tall, and the patch panels are only about 9.5" tall.

Looking at the Classic Parts catalog, they have a rear half section for 55-57 fenders. I am wondering if the lower section of the fender is the same between the two year ranges.

Since GM used the same cab for that while rang, I *think* the section below the curve should match? Does anyone know if I am crazy? I would rather not buy the parts on a risk.

Whoa?! "Imitation beer" ?
Since when is Politics Allowed?
Where is the Moderator? This ain't the Maytag Repair Shop. Take action. The humanity, and whatnot.
I'd be a whole lot madder if I wasn't sipping on a jar of Apple Pie recently acquired from the hills of WV.

Update- - - - -I survived the "probe"- - - -and there were no gray aliens with teardrop-shaped heads and big eyes anywhere in sight, unless they called them in after they put the magic juice into my IV! And- - - -contrary to the opinion of a few moderators on several internet chat rooms- - - - There are a couple of defects! A few internal "roids" and diverticulitis don't require any drastic action, so they said "Come back and see us in 10 years!" By then, I'll be 85!

Now, the next chapter of the story will get written in one week- - - -I 'm scheduled for a re-test of my hearing loss by yet another VA contractor. The first test back in February was "inconclusive". My father was 89 years old before the VA figured out that piloting a B-17 and listening to four 1200 HP unmuffled Wright Cyclone radial engines for hundreds of hours caused his hearing loss- - - -so he was only able to collect a few months' worth of compensation before he passed away. I hope they're ready to deal with a very persistent patient where I'm concerned!
Jerry

buying

Well, I agree that rare parts "are not inexpensive"! Not to mention out of stock on a lot of parts. I could buy a whole set of shocks for the price of one of theirs. Even their tie rod rebuild kit is exorbitant. Do they make their parts by hand? Made in America, I hope. They're up there with Chev's of the 40's price range. I appreciate the referral, but I think i'll pass and stick with Classic parts. I figure if I keep it greased, I can at least try to rebuild the ends. If all else fails, I'll try the complete tie rod end part, but I don't know if I even really need them. I don't expect this truck to drive like today's trucks, because it isn't one. It had been my daily driver until last year when the timing gear went out about the same time I bought my '05 Silverado 3500 for pulling loads and rental equipment, but until I fix the king pins, et al, I decided it needs to be right before I start driving it regularly again. The front tires are completely bald on the outer edges and starting to develop cracks. But when I get it up and running again, it will be my daily driver again (when I'm not working on the 40 acres in the woods or hauling heavy equipment or a trailer with supplies.)
Can anybody give me any tips on the rebuilding of these tie rod ends? I've read they need heated and peened, Aside from that, it looks pretty straight forward. Pull the cotter key, pull the plug, pull the guts, replace them, and put it back together. Is that right, or is there some dirty secret that I haven't heard about on these?

Good suggestion on the assembly manual. I have one and will take a look. Thanks.

OK, I re-read your original post. Getting 0 volts at the distributor side of the coil- - - -WITH THE POINTS CLOSED- - - - - is normal since the non-moving point is grounded. That's what lets the primary current flow to ground and energize the coil. If you're getting 0 volts at the side terminal of the distributor or the downstream side of the coil with the points open, you have created an unintentional ground at the distributor connector or the moving point during your installation of the new points. Recheck everything you have done recently- - - -it's easy to get the primary circuit grounded between the distributor housing and the points so that opening the points doesn't interrupt the circuit.
Jerry

The Colorado came with a choice of 3.42, 3.73 and 4.11 gears. There is also the limited slip that was offered on the four wheel drives and anything with a towing package.

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1947truck/index.htm

Kevin,

I'll look for those spot welds that you mention. I needed a saw blade to separate the rocker panel from the lock pillar, so using one for the last bit won't be a problem. At least from a thought perspective. Things seems kind of tight back there, so getting an actual sawzall into that space may be difficult. If so, I'll use the blade and cut it by hand. Any way, one step at at time. Thanks for the heads up.

I have an AM radio that plays on 6 or 12 volts neg. or pos. ground. It has switches to select which one. I tested it & it plays real good. It will really work good for a 6 volt truck & a 6 volt pos. ground GMC. $25 shipped. I have an original equipment Delco 6X9 speaker i used for testing. I will throw it in free except for shipping. It has a heavy magnet. It sounds real good.

George

No sun exposure on a daily basis. Tread depth front and rear 5/32. The front may be slightly more. The 5 is not completely exposed.