Too Tall, I'll post an update when (if) he has them available.
Attached are a few pix of a TF high capacity radiator.The core is about 1/2" thicker, but that's hard to see in the pictures. The pix do show how the mounting brackets have a 90 degree angle from the core support to fit the increased width of the radiator as compared to the 45 degree angle of a standard radiator. The pix also show the integral mounting tabs for the factory shroud.
Yes they were aluminum rivets and I believe 1/8 mandrel. The pieces really did come together nice and tightly, on a couple occasions, I had to redo a couple and clamp the two pieces with very small vise grips with some of that cured rubberized coating on the jaws. Funny thing, I set out thinking if it didn't work out to my satisfaction, I could always use the stainless hardware and fasten it with small bolts,lockwashers and nuts but this ended up a cleaner install than all that. Disassembly was really easy by drilling out the rivets.
This thread hits home really badly. Just last year, I was painting like a mad man in my detached shop. The chassis was in the garage attached to the house. The cab was on the dolly under the carport and all the painted fenders,grill bumpers, interior trim, seat frame, tailgate bedsides and front panel,wheels came into the house in the recroom. More of the truck was in there than not for many months. I went to harbor freight and bought a bunch of those 5 by 7 moving blankets for the parts to sit on. I didn't wrap or cover anything. I used single stage urethane with a hardner, so after a day or so, you really couldn't smell any off gasing. We had some really nice weather for about 90 days straight and once painted, it sat out in the sun for about a week minimum, before coming in.
Ya'll have pretty much said what the voices in my head have been telling me. Put it in the right place. Here's the kicker, since I decided to keep the spot light, the mirror has been 3/4 blocked and useless. Moving it to the original location will make it completely useless. Not that you can see the whole world through a 4" round mirror! I guess if I concentrate hard enough, the back side of the spot light can be used as an extreme convex mirror!
I have had this hood latch panel on my shelves for years. I always thought it was from a GMC half ton since I got it with a load of half ton parts.But now I see it has an extra hole and it too deep to be a half ton. Someone suggested it may be from a Cab Over. I need some help to ID Thank you in advance John
The newer, modern style advertised on the website is a bit pricey.
The older model called the Sky that was made by John Frantz starting back in the 50's is usually easy to find on eBay with prices ranging anywhere from about $25 for a used one to $100 for a NOS one. John Frantz sold the rights to the older models to a guy named Ed who is a great guy to deal with and carries all of the parts such as gaskets for the old Sky model. He also sells a newer model similar to the Sky called the Refiner. Here is his website--
The Frantz bracket will mount to the intake manifold just like the AC or Fram bypass canisters that we are accustomed do seeing. It is as easy to install as an AC or Fram bypass canister. You can use hard lines or soft lines if it is mounted to the manifold.
Skeptics might think the idea is nuts. Hotrod Lincoln is the one who got me to think about using a Frantz a couple years ago when I was working on a project to install a spin-on canister filter on a full flow 261 combined with a bypass filter. He recommended the Frantz instead of a typical bypass canister.
If you want to do some research, do a Google search and you'll find plenty of information.
I’ll be picking up my cab from the weld shop Saturday morning. I’m in Arizona I should have my cab home Saturday afternoon we did the same thing but cross braced the cab and double Checked door gaps before they cut the floor out and welded the new floor in they also had to highly modified the cab corners as the aftermarket ones were not exact fit. P.m. me I’ll send you my phone number we can measure while on the phone
All you really need is an air hose and an old spark plug. File, grind, or hacksaw the crimp on the plug shell to release the porcelain and use a 1/4" pipe tap to thread the plug shell for an air line quick-connector. I've got a couple of those adapters stashed away somewhere, one for 14MM plug threads and another for the old Ford 18MM plugs. One of these days, I'll have to make one for the 10MM threads on some of the old 216's.
If you have a compression tester with screw-in adapters for the plug holes, just take the Schrader valve out of the tester hose and adapt the air pressure to it. A lot of compression testers use the same quick-connect fittings that air hose couplers have. Jerry
welcome to the site! Ditto, sounds like it is starving for fuel. First thing I'd do is unhook the fuel line at the fuel pump that goes back to the tank. Put a piece if fuel line on the pump going into a gas can and see if it will start and run from the gas can. It could very well be that your fuel line coming from the tank is swollen almost shut and collapsed internally. Or the fuel tank could also be full of all manner of evil!
It runs well, I didn't need to do anything at all the the carb. I'm running 1.5" straight pipes to the back of the truck.
I just swapped out the old single flapper exhaust with the Fentons. Excessive heat has not been a problem and I've run it in 100 degree weather with traffic.
If you have a set of the old Fentons with the heat manifold cast into them you've found yourself a gem. They are very hard to find...and when you do find a set in decent condition, people want an arm and a leg for them.
Thank you all for your replies. You have all provided me with the detailed information that I need to make a decision on seat belts. This thread will serve others very well in the future too, regarding seat belts and three-point shoulder harness installation in AD trucks. Since my '47 doesn't have any seat belts, adding them will be an improvement none the less. I'm not going the three-point harness route since I'm built so close to the ground and the location of the shoulder harness anchor point will end up too high. I'll be installing lap belts. Juliano's is sending me some color samples. I plan on using the aviation-type buckles.
Hello all, I posted last summer after purchasing a 48 3100. Ever since I've been reading most of the HiPo forum and much of the other forums and I am delighted with all the knowledge and experience you folks have. I finally got the truck in my shop and have started working on it. With my brother in law's help and guidance the truck has a sound floor, new front cab mounts, new cab corners and door bottoms and is structurally sound again. Thanks LMC trucks. I bought a 92 Chev 1/2 ton for a donor vehicle. It has a 305, 700R4, and a 3.08 axle. I'm going to use a carburetor. I think I remember reading that the cast iron intakes will work on these. Please correct me if I'm wrong. I have both a Rochester quadrajet from a 350 and a Rochester 2 jet from a 283 with manifolds. Any advice as to which one would work better. Is the 1/2 ton axle too wide? I think it's 64 1/2". Has anyone used full size 1/2 ton rotors on the stock axle? I plan to have power steering as well. I started to pull the 305 today and hope to have mounts and a transmission cross member in soon. Thanks. Sonny