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I posted this in my journal, but thought I’d ask here too:

I started sanding on the “new, good” 1970 C10 hood and am questioning things. The skin isn’t what I’d call “tight, tight.” I see serious highs and lows that I figured weren’t as bad as I thought as I ran my hand over the surface. It isn't quite canning, but bounces up and down , and isn’t tight. The right side is pretty serious as you can see in the picture. I’d rather not have to use filler over most of the hood. Weird thing though, is that it is almost symmetrical left to right, with the right being more advanced. I’m wondering if new vibration pads will help enough to warrant “little filler.” Anybody run into similar? Thoughts, Bolters?

I started sanding on the “new, good” hood and am questioning things. The skin isn’t what I’d call “tight, tight.” I see serious highs and lows that I figured weren’t as bad as I thought as I ran my hand over the surface. It isn't quite canning, but bounces up and down , and isn’t tight. The right side is pretty serious as you can see in the picture. I’d rather not have to use filler over most of the hood. Weird thing though, is that it is almost symmetrical left to right, with the right being more advanced. I’m wondering if new vibration pads will help enough to warrant “little filler.” Thoughts, Bolters?

In the meantime, I began searching for a replacement hood. I checked at my Uncle/Aunty’s ( my departed uncle who gifted the truck) but that old GMC hood was worse off. I then tried an old boy who’s a friend of my dad’s. He said, “Sure. Come on over. I have a couple you can look at to see if they’ll help you out.”

So I did. And found a gem of a gmc hood with only two little bolt holes on top that are easily worked. The skin is very tight, straight, and made me drool.

I went to the house and asked about a sale.

“Oh. That GMC. (1 of 2 candidates) I’m not selling that. I’m fixing it up one day.” He’s done this to others, including me, in the past.

3 miles from the farm. And he won't sell it to me. After he said to come out and we will see if he can help me out.

“I’m gonna fix it up one day”

“Really? When are you starting?” I replied.

"One day… I already started moving things around."

I told him, “No, you’re not and no, you haven’t. That truck hasn’t moved in over 10 years. And the yellow was parked well over 20. One day means never. That truck is going to rot into the ground and waste away. Sell me the hood."

No.

Makes me crabby. Fix it up. Pfft. No means to do so. No income to do so. No ambition to do so. Old age won’t allow him to do so. Hoarders are infuriating. Fred Flintstone’s car has better floors than this truck does. The yellow one is even worse.

Offer of trade my primed hood + cash.
“Nope. I’m fixing it up, “he says. 🙄 Grrr. Insert bloody “bleep bleep”here. I’m glad he wasted my time, too.

So, I’m sitting on my hood for a bit in hopes my dad can talk sense to this guy. My other uncle might have some leads on some possibilities hiding on people’s back 40.

In the meantime, I removed the door skin on the left door. I HATE THIS LEFT SIDE DOOR PROJECT. The previous attempt’s bottom edge missed (see earlier posts) and buckled/ pinched the lower edge. It wasn’t going to cut the quality I need on this build, so out it came. I cut the scabbed up piece out, cut a new piece of 18 gauge, welded, planished, ground smooth, cut to fit, straightened, and I think this go round will be good. Knock on wood. Test fitting right now. How many hours have been put into this bleeping door. Gotta be over 60 now. Ugh. Reproduction? Oh, right. The LH sides are a POS for a pillar fit.

Hours: 542.

Ups and downs here at Fox Rods!

👍🏻🦊🔫

Isn't applying Bondo over paint or primer asking for a lift later on? I was always cautioned to only apply filler over bare metal that had been thoroughly scuffed with a coarse sanding disc to assure good adhesion.
Jerry

Hi, Garageguy. I've never done it, but from what I've read in other discussions regarding this, removing the front end as a clip is the way to go. Others will surely respond and provide insight and information.

You have found the best website to help with your restoration.

Welcome to the Stovebolt

John

Mild curiousity: why not a 64?

Most likely a Carter one barrel calibrated for a Ford 300 six. I might modify a stovebolt intake to accept a small bore Rochester 2 barrel for a 327 V8. Unlike the Rochester B, the 2G series carbs are very well designed and reliable. It's necessary to do some pretty extensive machining and welding to the manifold to extend the plenum under the 2 barrel throttle base all the way to the manifold runners. Using an adapter to mate the 2 BBL to the original manifold ends up getting less airflow than the original 1 barrel carb. I've also got an idea about using Keihin side draft diaphragm piston carbs for a Harley Davidson motorcycle on home-brewed individual manifolds, one for each intake port.
Jerry

'64 C60 with the 15k lb Chevrolet two speed vacuum rear axle (with the 15x4 brake shoes). Everything I reference notes that the axle is the same from '60 thru roughly '72 on the trucks so it shouldn't be model year specific.

I pulled the yoke and oil seal retainer housing from the axle to replace the pinion oil seal and pulled the main cover to drain the diff and clean and replace fluids. Both had a cork gasket. None of my books show a part number and the local NAPA looked at me cross-eyed when I asked about them. Is the gasket necessary or will some liquid gasket maker cut it? The way the yoke is torqued to the pinion shaft I cant imagine the absence of a 2-4mm gasket messing with bearing preload or oil seal.

Additionally, the manual calls for a 'felt washer' to be present between the oil seal housing and the oil seal itself (see attached photo). There was most definently not one present when I took it apart and the part number on the old seal matches factory numbers which was only run from 64-66. By my guess, I am the first person to have this pinion apart based on what I am seeing, thus I assume the washer was omitted at the factory? Any thought on trying to source one or running without it?



And for anyone that searches and comes across this thread, here's some useful info:
PN: 3826129 is the original OEM pinion seal for this axle from '64-'66
PN: 3879527 replaced 3826129 in '66 as the OEM pinion seal

PN: 411330N is the NATIONAL pinion seal that interchanges with both above OEM seals and is available new
PN: 25970 is the SKF pinion seal that interchanges with both above OEM seals and is available new
PN: 411330N is the TIMKEN pinion seal that interchanges with both above OEM seals and is available new

Hood side emblem...1955.

The bed has always done this since I've had the truck. In full upright position, once the PTO is disengaged, the bed slowly drifts back to the down position. It is slow though, taking 10 minutes or so to fully lower. Disengaging the pump allows the bed to return down at normal speed.



This was my current thought. Any advice on location of this valve? Is it the piston valve attached to the main engagement lever below? If so, I did discover today that the lever extension was contacting the frame and once removed, allowed the piston to close/seat completely as shown in the photo. Before you could still see 1/4" of the piston sticking out. Maybe that was the root of the problem and its just this simple fix? Also discovered a grease zirk I didn't know existed just below this that was obscured by decades of grime.

[img]https://i.imgur.com/Wu56FYb.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i.imgur.com/QvTyUFq.jpg[/img]

Neverminded the seemingly leaky pump. Its just leakdown from the main fittings from detaching the hydro lines. The pump itself has never leaked to my knowledge.

I was under the truck tearing down the diff today and took a look at the pump again. Due to the design, it really isn't possible to drop the pump from the truck without cutting off the welds that hold the reservoir to the frame. Although the pump is bolted to the reservoir supports, the fittings between the reservoir and pump are large and in a spot where no wrench can get to them due to the crossmember that the apparatus is mounted directly behind. Seems like a poor design.

[img]https://i.imgur.com/zA5Fa2p.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i.imgur.com/dmyG9Eb.jpg[/img]

Bartamos, I'll do the tests you suggested tomorrow.

I had looked in only one place for the carb kit and the bucket. Just looked again a couple more places, looks like together they're under 100.

Thanks!

Thanks there Hotrod, should have known you would have the answer.

The 1952 Suburban, bone stock, whether clamshell or barn door, only had a single tail light. Dang near impossible to make turn signals out of that unless you added extra lights. The dual filament bulb, in the stock housing, acts as a tail light/license plate light and brake light. 1157's will work as tail light/brake - turn lights only if you add the extra light housings.

Half wheelbarrow. That's funny. Was it a Jackson or a Tru-Temper?!

Otto,

You might want to read through this older thread about your subject https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1021886&page=all . Think it will provide many answers to your question, plus possible solutions.

Found using the Search the Site tool in the left margin.

Dan

I’d take them.

Phil,

Glad it may be of some help for you and your friend.

Would be interested to see pics of the project if your friend doesn't mind sharing. You could still post in the Welcome Centre, just note the info about the truck being a friends that you are helping with. There are already several such new member posts just like that.

Let us know how your search turns out.

Dan

High today in central Texas was 75.7F

Good work. You’ll be driving soon.

If this were my truck, I would remove the springs from the truck and remove the bushings from the springs and inspect the spring eyes to make sure that the bushings did not wear all the way through and damaged the spring eyes.
If there in no wear there and the springs are not heavily pitted from rust, I would use what you have.
New springs are generally stiff. They are designed to do the work which these trucks were designed to do. Haul heavy loads. You may not like the ride which new springs may provide. I doubt you are planning on hauling much in your truck, judging from its stance in your pics.

Looking for input from anybody that has converted a 60 - 62 pick up with this set up?

Manual transmission (T5), hyd. clutch, drum /drum, inline 6.

Hey there chebby!

Been a long time (almost 8 years) since your last posts that mentioned you had recently purchased a '52 5-window.

That one certainly sounded like a sweet ride. Got any pictures to share???

If you have even a bill of sale showing it transferred from the last registered owner to the person you have purchased it from, you can show a chain of ownership that should make it easier to title. Still may have to do a bonded title. The last one I had done in CO cost me $150 on a 1977 motorcycle worth maybe $400. I did not have to wait even a month to apply for a title. They do a search against the VIN number to see if it was ever reported stolen, and if it comes up negative, you are golden. Of course laws vary widely from state to state. It's a good thing you are not trying to title it in CA! For a long time, they would have wanted back registration fees going back to the last time it was registered. Anyway, Good Luck! It looks like a good solid truck.
Tom

My dad said when he was a kid, he painted his car with a brush. the paint went on thick, wet, and heavy but settled out perfectly smooth as it dried. He buffed it up and waxed it and everyone thought he paid "real money" to have it done. 1933 Plymouth.

i have a fresh air heater assembly for sale in the parts for sale section thats needs motor, check it out if you want more pics let me know