After ignition, the flame front needs time to develop and propagate in order to create the pressure to push the piston down. The time this takes is accounted for by how much spark advance is needed (expressed in degreed BTDC) so the 'explosion' occurs as the piston turns around and heads down the cylinder. As mentioned above, the engine parameters determine the optimum advance, and as the motor spins faster more advance is needed. Thats why there is an RPM dependent mechanical/vacuum advance as well.

Most likely your (plastic ?) envelope was the "packaging" used by whomever sold the manual?

Two examples of operators manuals are attached below (1948 and 1960).

Jerry, can you accomplish a 300 cu inch with rod and crank work only or does it require a new piston too.

Excellent advice, Phak1

Oh crud, talk about overthinking something...lol... Allow me to introduce myself, my name is Dink, and I surely feel like one, too...lol...OY.

Thanks Dave for pointing out the obvious, and allowing me to climb out of this rabbit hole.

I would have realized that Dave when I removed the old 3-speed-od to start the installation. But instead I asked in a public forum so I could share my embarrassment with all y'all.

Now let me ask, how did you like the Ranger after installing it?

I have had success in years past with putting the truck in gear, turn the ignition on and push start with another vehicle. The inertia of the flywheel usually breaks the stuck disc loose. Be ready to blip the throttle and pull it back into neutral if it doesn’t. Don’t give up on the first try. Good luck.

Looking for a 1944 truck. We don't care what make, we would like a pick up however we know that is like finding a needle in a haystack so 1 tons, firetrucks anything you find we will look at. Friend has a business that was started in 1944, they would like something from that year, Send me photos of what you may have and we will see if it can be made into something cool for them.
Thank You

For sale in the Trucks for Sale Forum.

I swapped out the stock steering box for a CPP power steering unit. The 283 has the front motor mounts, so I am having a difficult time finding a place to mount the power steering pump. This motor does have later heads with the mounting holes. Anyone else ran into this issue?
Thanks.

Thanks ,Bill, having such a good time didn't take any pictures ,Pat

Pull steering wheel, unbolt the box from the frame. Slide out column assembly. Regarding gunked up bolt head and nuts: Get a couple sacrificial sockets and grind around the perimeter for a sharp edge and tap through caked up grease. This worked for me when i had a bunch of bolts to remove and didnt want to take the time to clean each bolt for a socket to fit.

Keep trying, Carl and DoubleDingo. Maybe some day.

The 400 series GMC has a different steering gear and column than the smaller 1948-54 trucks. My guess is it shares details with trucks (of other and smaller sizes) older than 1948
I don’t recall the details of the horn wire but do have a whole column on the shelf I could look at in a week or so if you don’t get an answer before.

Not saying this is your situation but one older method is a slip ring insulated from the shaft is wired (inside space between jacket and or inside shaft) to the horn button and a spring loaded brush runs on the ring and is attached to the column jacket/tube where a new wire continues on to ground the horn.

. . . . . . . . . . although ........... NOT a stovebolt


i am wiring an original 6vdc Indian Chief Feathered face HORN. . . . . . kinda like [rocking horse ****]
or
[ hen's teeth ] faced horn to a new 12vdc system on my mighty 39 chief......

this is NOT something i want fonged up, guyz what works to accomplish this feat ??

https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/indian-motorcycle-horn-1939-1940-485440505

A 1/2” female to 3/4” male socket adaptor. I don’t know why it’s taken me so long to get one.

I just took a look, according to the parts catalog I can use my current brake cables as they take the same ones 47 to 55. I believe if the rear brakes are 12 x 2" I should just be able to install those with new hardware and be ready to go.

A lot of interesting comments here. I don't disagree with most of them. One person's definition of "original" may vary from the next person's, and it's good to try and define those terms wherever possible.
But these fanatics who say that as soon as you change the oil or replace a tire it's not original any more.....that's just stupid!

It's hard to believe but its darn hard to find someone to grind a crankshaft in Mt. So I ordered a crankshaft kit with mains and rod bearings. It actually amounts to about the same money.. I also need a camshaft. How about this " Sealed Power CA 251". Anybody have any recomendations.

PM sent for the ignition switch.

I don't think it's a replacement with a Jan 1949 cast date.

Curious to know why you think it could be a replacement?

Mike B

I just picked up this 1965 C50 (K50?) 4WD. Can anyone tell me what brand is the front axle? It looks like a NAPCO (I have a '59 NAPCO 1/2T) but no markings on it. Also, anyone know where to look for locking hubs for this? It has drive flanges, so front end turns all the time. Thank you!

CDW, We hope to have the same shirt with a pocket, but red, with black lettering this year.
John and Kevin are hooked up on PM's to get a design finalized.
I'll be calling Mongo's Sister in law who has done all the shirts in the past.
Get her hooked up with Kevin when a final design is decided.

If it turns out to be the 41 to 46 Victory Truck, I'll need to dig out the 46 2-Ton and load it up.
A thread to order shirts will be started as soon as I get a price quote.

Don

"I adjusted the door without the striker plate on. Once I mounted the striker plate, I had to move the door back towards the cowl to shut."

What were your door gaps, front and back, before you put the striker back on? Close to the same distance? Did it result in solving the interference with the weather strip at the cowl? I yes to both, you can hit the area behind where the striker belongs with a hammer to give you up to 1/8" or so recess so your lock won't hit the striker. (I have done this. The striker hides the hammer marks.)

"The hinges are original and there is no play in them. What would be the reason to rebuild them?"

How many miles on this truck? That will correlate nicely with how many times the doors were opened and closed. They have a place to oil the pins, but no one ever did, it seems. Pick up on the door in the full open position and feel for any movement. There shouldn't be any to speak of.
Worn hinge pins raise their ugly heads once the weather strip has been installed. It pushes the door all over the place as you close the door.

"The striker I have is a reproduction. I will put the calipers on them tomorrow and see if the repro is thicker than the original."

I refuse to use reproduction strikers. I have welded new metal to used ones to restore their serviceability. If you can't do that, search eBay for NOS ones.

Carl

The lower two bolts went from 7/16” to 1/2” when Bendix brakes came in, in 1951.
Other than that they are the same.
That would be 1951-59.

Where in Washington are you?