Hy Alex Valle, welcome, that is a lot of questions for your first post. The transmission should be an SM420 you will have to swap bellhousings, put the 57 engines bellhousing on the 54 engine. In order to remove the bellhousings you will have to remove the clutches and flywheels from both engines, because there are bellhousing bolts behind the flywheel. Check the front/sides of both engines, the 57 engine used mounts on the front/sides of the engine, the 1954 engine used a mount under the front of the engine, the bolt holes for the front/side mounts may not exist on the 1954 engine. If the engine is from a 1954 3/4 ton it should be a 235. The cable coming up the shifter is more than likely a shift cable for a two speed rear axle. Tell your F.L.A.P.S. that your need parts for a 4000 series or 40 series. The point gap for new points should be .016", hope that helps.
I have an original 1954 switch. It has only 2 positions: on/off. There are three terminals on the switch, but only 2 were used. So, I expect that since you have a reproduction with 3 positions on the switch, the terminals are different from the original. IOW, don't be surprised if the "middle" terminal is not BAT.
I would sit down with your new switch and your VOM set to ohms and try all the combinations of connections until you find the one that works.
This a long shot but when you took the starter apart did you check the brushes contacting point on the (commutator). Yellow (A) circle in photo. The brush contacting point (commutator) should be shiny copper looking. If not, use 00 sand paper to shine-up commutator and clean out dirt in separators. Then check brushes (B 19) for wear, if brushes are touching brush holder replace brushes or buy new starter.
The only other thing is, does the engine crankshaft turn.
The earliest year 427 I've got HP/torque info on is 1974. That year it was rated at 230 HP @ 4000 RPM, and 360 Ft/Lbs of torque @ 2000. They started dropping the numbers in 75, and by 81, some of them were down to 195 HP and 340 ft/lbs.
I'd suggest using the 4.88 gears and shifting at 3500-3800 RPM, wherever the shift puts you at or neat the torque peak in the next higher gear. Obviously, you'll need to do some tinkering with the governor to get it to wind up that much. Jerry
There is a bead of butyl rubber holding the channel to the metal pinch weld, no sealant in the glass channel (yet). I'm thinking of hitting it with my heat gun, then taping it down while it's soft and letting it set up that way.
I like the color, too! It's called Burgundy Maroon, and was only offered in 1953,
Your fiber timing gear was wiped out due to a plugged up oil nozzle. If engine sludge makes it into the 1/16" nozzle orifice it will stop the oil flow that lubricates the timing gears and the steel crank gear will eat the fiber cam gear.
Replacement fiber cam gears are available. At one time you could get over-sized fiber cam gears to compensate for worm steel crank gears.
When braking, there is a lot of down force on the tail end of the transmission, when the drive train incorporates a torque tube. When braking, there is a almost zero down force on the tail end of the transmission, when the drive train incorporates a Hotchkiss or open drive.
So I would say that the 47-53 truck rear-transmission frame cross-member is not needed when the drive train incorporates a Hotchkiss or open drive. That said extra support does not hurt anything. The rear-transmission frame cross-member might aid in preventing the frame from twisting.
Because of the design of the 47-53 rear engine mount crossmrmber. The engine & tranny weight want to pull the frame rails inward. Hence the need for a rear-transmission frame cross-member.
GM redesigned the Rear Engine mount crossmember in 1954 hence no need for a rear-transmission frame cross-member for trucks equipped with manual transmissions..
Thank you Treydrummer. I rebuilt a Rochester yesterday that had been sitting for a few years. I cleaned it well twice and still couldn't get it to pump. After seeing your post I opened it back up again and sure enough, the tee was turned the wrong way and had a little metal blocking the passage. I opened it up and viola it started pumping. Got to hear it run for the first time this evening.
LEAK TESTED, GOOD, FROM 54 CHEV. 2 TON, STORED INSIDE FOR 22 YEARS, HARRISON # 3132039 , R-08, 54 E, EXELLENT CONDITION, $ 120, PICKUP AT MY PLACE OR $ 175 IF I PACK AND TAKE TO SHIPPER. YOU PAY FOR THE SHIPPING.[b][/b][img]http://[/img]
Thanks Spanky and all others for the thumbs-up, as you can see I haven't done anything to the body except lighting and mirrors. I've put in lots of hours on the drive train and brakes so most of the money and time don't show but I know everyone here can appreciate it. I don't know how far I will go with restoration but I'm having a good time with it regardless.
Has anyone heard of 1954 235 Chevy blocks having Main Bearing dowels (or mainline pins) and where do I find them?
Context: My 235 Chevy straight Six in my 1954 Chevy Bel Air had a crack. Still usable but I need to replace it soon. I bought a new used numbers correct 235 (with hydraulic lifters). I pulled the new 235 block apart and sent to the machine shop. The machinist was about to order new main bearings but stopped short because the new used block I gave him didn't have main bearing dowels in it. He thinks the block had them at one time but they were removed when the engine was rebuilt prior to me owning it. I guess they are supposed to help keep the bearings from spinning. He says I need to find a set before we continue with the rebuild. Has anyone heard of 235 Chevy's having main bearing dowels? I'll pulled a few of these blocks apart and I haven't seen them before. If this sounds legit, do I really need them? Any idea where I can find a set? I've searched everywhere.
You're right Jerry, It's easy to make a new pattern when the lug count is the same. When going 6 to five or visa-versa that the set of new to old holes look like fresh snow with the footprints of a staggering drunk. The old Chevy is (in metric) 6x139.7 while Trailblazer is 6x127---almost a 1/4" smaller. Pilot hole is no biggy.
Once it’s delivered and you take your time going through it to make it road worthy, then drive it a couple of months, you’ll bond with your truck. You’ll accept it for what it looks like, and I’ll bet that you’ll never want to paint it! Freshly painted trucks don’t look like an old truck oughta.