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Got your check today for the shirt David, Thanks.
And thanks to Dan for the personal delivery.

Don

I was having the same problem with my fuel sending unit from Classic Chevy Truck parts. It would work outside the tank holding the wires to it, moving the float arm up the gauge went from E to F. Full was 30 ohms. Put it back in and it would not move off of empty. Remove signal center wire and would go to full. Just would not work in the tank. I ordered a new on and it checked good, 0 to 30 ohms and E to F by raising the float arm, just like the old one. My mechanic would not give up, must have removed it 15 times. Finally figured out that the center wire stud was making intermittent contact. He could wiggle it and the needle would defect up to full and back down. Never did figure out what caused it. Put the new same style sending unit and it works perfect.

If you are losing brake fluid and are absolutely sure there are no leaks in the wheels, master, or lines, then suspect the Hydrovac is leaking internally and sucking brake fluid into the vacuum line.

On the Rochester B carb, is there a gasket between the throttle body and the Bakelite spacer ?

Yes, inverted trap is like an upside down "U" or "P". In my application, the rubber vacuum hose runs from the base of the carburetor up to some 1/2" steel tubing, the tube is vertical and connects to the bottom of the check valve, then out of the top of the valve it makes a short vertical run and then a 180 degree turn and down to the frame.

Post is still up

Alvin, the Turkey Run covers the complete infield of the Daytona Speedway. I suggest either renting or bringing an electric powerchair. They should be reserved prior to arrival as they will run out if you wait.
It's a lot of walking, easily 2 to 3 times bigger than Moultrie.

https://oldchevytrucks.com/blog/2010/02/the-forgotten-261-6-cylinder-engine/

Not exactly. My grandpa started restoring it years before he passed, but he could never actually get it going long enough to drive it home. I'm pretty sure somewhere in the last 10 years he put that Gas tank on, but it did sit for a few years before I got a hold of it in any case. I've been restoring it over the last 6 months (aka just trying to fix whatever breaks as I get it on the road), so I've only been putting a few gallons in the tank at a time as I got the ignition system working, then the fuel system, then engine, (then had a mishap where I ruined the stock steering knuckle, that was a nightmare) and so on. This week was the first time I've really filled the tank to full, and I topped it off with a bottle of gumout for good measure- didn't even think to check the filter off of the tank to see how it was handling the sludge that was getting broken up

👍👍👍

0.76 and a 3.90 with 28.66" tires make a good combination with my 216. Best modification I've done on the truck so far.

Thanks for all the help!

Eric,

Just a note that you can post an ad for specific brake parts you decide you need in the Truck Parts Wanted forum in the Swap Meet area of our site.

Dan

PS - Better to ask here or in the Big Bolts forum for help identifying the parts that you need before putting up an ad!

This is the number I found on several sites for them but it answers "The Parts Authority" which appears to be some sort of parts database

Retail store hours:
Monday - Friday, 8:00am - 5:30pm EST
Saturday , 9:00am - 1:00pm EST

By phone:
1-800-462-0062

By Email:
info@remaninc.com

http://www.remaninc.com/contact_us

Unfortunate that the front fenders are in primer.
Gone is the patina option.

I`ve been 3 routes with seats with these trucks. TMI , Vintage Nova buckets and these.
I like these the most and only have $110 in them.
I can adjust them where I cannot reach the pedals or too close.
I am thinking mid 90`s

Moving your post to driveline, where it'll be more on topic.

I'm sure someone will chime in on suggestions. I might recommend checking for wear on the steering arm balls for wear. They will flatten out and get loose.

It has the symptoms of a vacuum leak.

Not sure what accessories on a stovebolt could leak vacuum, but prior to disassembly of the carb, try snugging the carburetor mounting bolts, and all of the carburetor body screws.

Does this engine have a distributor vacuum advance?

Jon

I agree with Achipmunk, I took this advice and mine is 5 yrs old and looks brand new. I don’t know why they don’t make it longer so the bolts can somewhat help hold it in place until they are tightened.

Thany you. It is good to have found the forum.



That is not to surprising. The 63' manual is huge.


Thank you for the downloads.

I'll keep yall posted on my progress. Brakes are first.

Doug,

Just a note that I agree 100% with Kevin!

Both guide pins need to be in the top bellhousing holes only.

That pin threaded into the transmission lower mount location is way too long to allow for full forward setting of the transmission AND still be able to extract it (must pull out from the front).

Dan

FAST55,

Check out this link to the Steele Rubber offered 1936 GMC rear window gasket [steelerubber.com].

If you go through the pics in the link, there is a diagram showing the holes formed into the gasket and the center-on-center spacing measurements.

No idea who produced your existing gasket, but maybe worth the investment to get a new one from Steele and make your life a bit easier with the install. From what most folks have said, Steele is the provider of choice and their products are most often the easiest and most correct to use.

Dan

Yes.... phosphoric Acid..... 😞😞😞😞

Mike

No coolant leaks or oil leaks. Nice and cool. Carb from Jon G works great!
Just the knocking noise.
I feel like I`ll be riding those lifters with a
socket wrench soon.