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Driveline Jump to new posts
39 Chevy transmission which one? Asahi1234 Tue May 26 2020 05:32 AM
I have a 39Chevrolet master deluxe. It had a 235 engine 3 speed top mount transmission. The 235 has a crack in the block. So I pulled the engine and transmission. And am installing a straight six 292 engine. My previous transmission will not bolt to the bell housing. So with the engine 292 what transmission can I use? Will I have to change the drive line and rear end to make it work? This hasn't gone well the wife is not like the cost of things. I thought I saw some were a S10 4 or 5 speed would work? Can you give me what derecktion to go in? I am mechanicaly inclined.PLEASE HELP.
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General Truck Talk Jump to new posts
Re: Stovebolt driving report Gord&Fran Tue May 26 2020 04:11 AM
Originally Posted by Rusty Rod
I drove my suburban around the block 3 times.

Did you get dizzy?
1,156 1,407,467 Read More
The Electrical Bay Jump to new posts
Re: 55’ First Series Chevy Truck Ignition jorb Tue May 26 2020 04:09 AM
If you are talking about this LINK
I then think the switch you have is a car 3 position switch housing, with a non-tear drop lever lock cylinder.
How is the switch mounted in the dash?
Can you take some pictures of the switch?

I'm not to sure about the ammeter question, maybe someone else will chime in.
7 51 Read More
The Tool Chest Jump to new posts
Re: Winch Battery? 2-Ton Tue May 26 2020 03:59 AM
WOW! I just wanted to keep it simple and easy to move from one trailer to the other as needed.

Sorry Jerry, but I think this is the only time I disagree with you. Two 6 volts, in series, will give more longer lasting amps.
But more cost and hassle to move from one trailer to the other, does not make it worthwhile.

Kevin, I know the F-250 has that extra tang in the plug to charge the battery. But that would mean to rewire both trailers.

I'll leaning on that old saying, "Keep it Simple Stupid".
But, I still welcome more input and folks that have used a winch in this application.

Here is the trailer I need it on.
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Welcome Centre Jump to new posts
Re: Frenchie 3100 1/2.T. 54 Rich'sToys Tue May 26 2020 03:42 AM
As Kevin mentioned, every time someone posts on your thread it comes back to the top of the list. That way others will be more likely to see it.

That's a very beautiful truck you have there!
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eBay and Craiglists Links Jump to new posts
Ho52 axle Tony292 Tue May 26 2020 03:35 AM
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Driveline Jump to new posts
Re: new guy with 1 ton 4.57 to 4.10 eaton? EdPruss Tue May 26 2020 03:25 AM
4.10 should be a good start, not very expensive, can easily resell if not high enough.

3 69 Read More
Driveline Jump to new posts
Re: 1939 (VC) 1.5 ton truck. 158-1/2" WB -Front Prop Shaft... EdPruss Tue May 26 2020 03:22 AM
What are the symptoms you are experiencing suggesting the driveshaft/torque tube needs replacing?

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Interiors Jump to new posts
Re: 1950 Chevy PU Light Switch Removal Brad Allen Tue May 26 2020 03:21 AM
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Paint and Body Shop Jump to new posts
Re: Water Leak Rear of Cab 49 3600 NorthCoast3800 Tue May 26 2020 03:17 AM
52 Carl, ya know.... I have the mixing gun and panel adhesive here I actually thought about that, but went ahead and just finished the job with seam sealer. I should have gone with that first thought. The stuff is amazing, I replaced box sides on my '94 F150 about 5 years ago with it and no movement or cracking despite a lot of abuse.

At any rate, I got it smooth enough for now, it's just a driver and very much looks overall look a work in progress anyway (and it is). I'll dig it out and redo it when the time comes.

Interestingly enough, it appeared someone else had already dug the factory sealer out, it was completely devoid of any sealer. When I blew it out with compressed air, it was just going straight into the cab, and I couldn't find any trace. I imagine whoever did that probably assumed (as I did when I looked at it) that the outer cab slid over a lip and that water would shed off. The whole truck has been in primer since the 90s. No wonder it was leaking!

Never a dull moment.
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Truck Parts Wanted Jump to new posts
Radiator 1940 1/2 ton Chevy PU Rabaut Tue May 26 2020 03:02 AM
I’m looking for a radiator for a 1940 Chevy 1/2 Ton PU.


0 5 Read More
Project Journals Jump to new posts
Re: Rusty Rod's 67 Suburban "the Kogai" Rusty Rod Tue May 26 2020 02:55 AM
May 25, 2020. I was able to move the 'burb under its own power again. I drove it around the block 3 times, which was more than enough. I has "armstrong" steering on it! Maybe I should have checked the air pressure?
68 2,521 Read More
Paint and Body Shop Jump to new posts
Re: new window problems klhansen Tue May 26 2020 01:50 AM
Suggest that you edit your signature to include the truck you're referring to if you only have one, or at least mention in your post which of your trucks you're referring to if you have more than one.
2 15 Read More
Driveline Jump to new posts
Re: rear shock 1951 chevy 3100 klhansen Tue May 26 2020 01:46 AM
Went out and looked at my one shock that was easily accessible, and the label was not readable, and couldn't find any other markings (stamping). But the rear shock cylinder measures 12" from lower eye to where the shaft emerges, and 21" from lower eye to upper shock mount. This is with bare chassis with no cab or bed.
5 27 Read More
The Tool Chest Jump to new posts
Re: What was the last tool you bought? CCer Tue May 26 2020 01:30 AM
I got a used 5 H.P. Emglo Air Compressor, 50? gal tank.
468 273,726 Read More
Project Journals Jump to new posts
Re: 5.3 powered stock appearing 1949 GMC 150 Lugnutz Tue May 26 2020 01:11 AM
I see the A/C compressor. Where is your alternator? On the PS?
You make all this sound so easy. I’m still trying to figure out how to wire my alternator to a dash light.
Awesome fun to watch and learn.
50 3,311 Read More
The Electrical Bay Jump to new posts
Re: Brake light mystery Gazz Tue May 26 2020 12:48 AM
Thanks for all the replies!
Replacing the harness has been a thought but the under the dash part is not something I look forward to. I reinforce myself by saying the wire in it is still original. Definitely past its prime though.
I have a wiring schematic from the manual (no directionals) and wire goes from the dash switch, fuse box, brake light switch and straight to the tail light.
5 105 Read More
Big Bolts Jump to new posts
Re: 1958 COE with big back window spanky Tue May 26 2020 12:42 AM
Nice truck. Not exactly a COE though. It's a "F" series GMC. Same as a 55-59 Chevrolet LCF (Low Cab Forward).
5 91 Read More
General Truck Talk Jump to new posts
Antique trucks everywhere Barnfind49 Tue May 26 2020 12:26 AM
I been driving my 49 a lot lately and actually have not been in any of my other vehicles since last wed. I drove it everywhere over the holiday weekend and got a lot of love from almost everyone passing by on the road. I also saw a abundance of old trucks and cars on the road. I love seeing relics still driving around beating the hands of time. I saw a beautiful 57 chevy shortbed, a mid 50’s chevy and a old dodge all within miles of each other. I thought i missed the car show but there wasn’t one. I also got my heater valve installed early Saturday morning so now the AC wont be fighting a hot heater core. I bought a universal cable and installed it onto the valve and mounted it in the stock location for the temp knob on a deluxe heater. Im very happy with how simple it worked out.
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Paint and Body Shop Jump to new posts
Re: Windshield Going In This Weekend 52Carl Mon May 25 2020 11:59 PM
Everyone needs to do at least one .
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Driveline Jump to new posts
Rear Brakes Stuck on '63 6300 Casey_58 Mon May 25 2020 11:56 PM
The brakes on my 6300 are completely shot, they have been since I bought it. I have been trying to remove the passenger rear brake drum but I have been having no luck. So far I have; removed the wheels and drum retaining screws, kroiled and backed off the adjusters as far as they go, snapped a shoe retaining bolt head off, and bent the backing plate at the 5 o'clock position. It is apparent the shoes are stuck behind a groove in the drum, but I can't seem to get it past.

Is there a secret to getting these off? The rear end I think is an Eaton 10 bolt with electric shift.
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The Engine Shop Jump to new posts
Re: Soot Problem Doc.Hall Mon May 25 2020 11:52 PM
Basic, is it is the nature of the beast. Everyone has the right answer, here in the South humidity is the culprit. You may want to look at your choke plate to make sure it is completely open. The manual choke can slip and stay partially closed or tilted always on a model "B". Doc
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'60-'66 Trucks Jump to new posts
Re: 1961 C10 stepside upgrade brake system Woogeroo Mon May 25 2020 11:48 PM
There used to be a great company called Early Classic Enterprises that sold the entire kit with everything part you needed in one box, but they shut down earlier this year.

Here is a good place to get started if you really want to run front discs:

'60-'66 Disc Brake Conversions []

A lot of the 'old truck' magazines, now websites have articles about switching over.

Do your research if you choose to go with a kit, as always buyer beware.

I've been running the drums on my '65 C10 with power brakes since 2003... and it works great, except maybe during a panic stop or in the real hard rain, but I just slow down more, mostly.

good luck, welcome to the 'bolt.

9 144 Read More
Doors Jump to new posts
Re: Door Rust Repair 52Carl Mon May 25 2020 11:47 PM
While it looks like the area would be easy to patch, the outer door skin wraps around that rusty inner door skin, trapping water/rust.
To repair that area properly, you need to pry the folded over outer skin and remove about 2 inches of the inner skin.
Once you get done with that, you will be able to witness the condition of the outer skin in that area.
2 36 Read More
Driveline Jump to new posts
Re: Driveline identification Mikeybakken Mon May 25 2020 11:20 PM
I did my rear joints with MOOG 331's. Fit great.
14 2,286 Read More
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