I only have a 1/2 ton but i think you have to bolt the cross members to the bed then place in the frame. I n my case I built the whole bed on saw horses and then backed under it and lowered on to the frame. Then taking a floor Jack i raised each point where a wood block was located and inserted the eccentric washer and bolt from the top through the wood through the cross member through the wood block into the frame. Repeated f or all six in my case then fine tuned the bed position and tightened all the bolts.
The Painless 3001 has a single hot feed. It also has a standoff bracket, so wires can be run underneath it. The side screw connections aren't ideal though. Here's a link to the manufacturer's info on it. link There's a link on the page to an instruction manual and wiring diagram.
Ray, those are the ones that GMCDan is selling. He is in Washington state and I am in Florida. I feel the price is too high and I don't want to pay that much freight. I have a few feelers out, something will show up much closer to me.
Hy GarlandFarms, I believe the o.e.m. p/ns for the pull back springs are: short spring p/n 3694316, long spring p/n 3694799. Neither of those p/ns crossed at the Napa website. Napa now uses the old United brake part numbers for their numbers by adding "UP" to the front of the United part number, I tried United p/n 80166 at the Napa site and turned up nothing. United p/n 80166 is the correct part number for the spring set for your truck four of each spring are required. I tried crossing Raybestos H9226 at both Napa and RockAuto and turned up nothing. It seems this particular spring set is not being reproduced either because of the age of the truck or the short span of their use. There is a member here 54 3600 I believe it is, if he sees this he will probably check for the old O.E.M. part numbers at dealerships. Good luck in your search.
Don't know if this would help, but I've been working on the wiring for my '53 one ton, and made up a wiring diagram since I couldn't find an appropriate one on line. I've gone completely to 12 volt, so I don't have any resistors in the circuits. I'm attaching the diagram I came up with, in case it will help.
Tim, I have a couple questions if you don't mind me asking: Is there an accessory feed of the light switch? Are you feeding the fuse box with one hot feed off the light switch? What fuse box did you use?
I have a separate thread above where I'm trying to figure out how to wire in a fuse box for wipers, heater, maybe a radio, dome light. Thanks, Joe
Yep, I agree, the pin has really worn itself into the clamp on the octane selector unit. The tab behind it is there and not totally worn out, but its clear this advance has some miles on it. If you want to repair it, you might be able to use a small shouldered bolt as previously suggested, over sized just a bit to clean up the slop. Or maybe just a new or different clamp that is not all elongated might do the trick.
Classic Parts of America has the 58-59 tail light housing. I deal with them a lot. They have full harnesses and they have just the tail light/rear harness and other harnesses/pigtails. I would email them and ask them to provide part numbers of harnesses and pigtail harnesses that fit the housing they sell. Then order what you need. They are very good about a full refund especially after they answer your email and state what fits. Also, I PM'ed you.
I am finishing the last of outstanding items to complete the restoration of my '53 GMC short bed, keeping the original 6 volt, positive ground circuitry. The previous owner had purchased a pre-made wiring harness which when installed presented no significant problems (although the wiring color codes did not always match original) but the hi beam indicator light stays on when switching from hi to lo beam. As part of the restore I installed a new dimmer switch and replaced both headlights. I have reviewed the threads I could find on this problem and tried the suggestions provided but the problem persists regardless of what I tried, even trying a new dimmer switch. My last attempt has been isolating the left light from the main wiring harness, with jumpers to the headlight pigtail that attaches to the left fender terminal strip, including a jumper to the positive ground frame connection. Switching from lo to hi and back, the indicator light does dim slightly but is always on. The voltages measured at the terminals on the dimmer switch clearly shows why the light stays on but I am baffled as to why there is voltage on each of the hi and lo beam terminals for the headlight harness. Battery voltage is 6.2 volts. Voltage from the light switch is 4.9 volts when switched to hi beam and the hi beam terminal is 4.8 volts and lo 4.7 volts. Switching to Lo beam, the voltage from the light switch increases to 5.1 volts, the hi beam terminal measures 3.1 volts and lo beam terminal 5.1 volts. I did check to be sure there is no contunuity between the two terminals on the terminal strip, it is also new. The wiring harness and connections conform to the schematic in the GMC Trucks Maintenance Manual except for one other mystery. The harness from the dimmer to the terminal strip for the hi beam is a blue wire. Another same color blue wire in the harness, connects the voltage regulator to the armature terminal on the generator and there is continuity between the two wires, which does not conform to the manual schematic, but disconnecting the wire to the generator does not change the voltages measured on the dimmer switch terminals. I assumed from the schematic that the hi and lo beams were powered by two circuits from the dimmer. I was told that is not the case, that the three terminals on the back of the headlight are all at the same voltage and the circuits are made when the dimmer switch changes one to ground to complete the circuit. If that is the case where in the circuit does the connection to ground take place? The ground wire from the headlight bucket attached to the fender doesn't do it. As I said, I am baffled, it can't be this complicated.
From another person I reached out to Sid at DroppedAxles and found that the 55-59 uses a 2" shackle with nuts on either end of the pins instead of the tapered kind with the one retainer bolt in the middle. Seems like an easy upgrade for a safer ride. Here's a picture with complete shackle and pins.