Just an update. Brought the truck home. Got a battery, belt and fresh gas and she runs! There's a knock in the engine though. Not exactly sure where, but guessing #6 cylinder. Need to do some trouble shooting to diagnose it. Sure has been a lot of fun so far. Left is radiator, brake lines and licensing. Then should be road worthy.
oh while we on the subject the high beam bulb is suppose to be a 51 not a 55 like the rest of the instrument cluster many trucks got a 55 in the high beam indicator and the extra heat damages the tiny colored plastic -s
I also second assembling it on the floor and then putting it on. There is less chance of banging a cab skin or dropping a box side. Plus, with the 1 ton (as I have) as the sills are bolted to the bed side and this provides very good pickup points. I have a homemade overhead cream with two chainfall hoist on it. I used 4 ratchet straps at 4 corners and this enabled me to pick hat bed up laser level, till the truck under it, and very easily, precisely and independently install the bed myself. Once on readjust as necessary, but if you took your time on the floor and it’s square, it should slide right down and on.
hi BillK are you sure you are looking at the high beam indicator bulb, because they all look the same when you take them out of the back of the speedo, sometimes when i plug the three bulbs back in they end up in the wrong places the high beam indicator fits just like the speedometer back lights -s
Maybe some one can steer me in the right direction, last week I took my 46 PU out of storage to exercise it. 216 3 speed 12 Volt. Drove a few miles then it seemed like the engine could not get enough power, like the brakes were on and I had to pull over. I got it restarted but it died when I tried to let the clutch out, it just seemed like there was no power under load, so I had to tow it back to it's parking spot. I went and started it today and the starter seemed like it was dragging but then was OK and it started and seemed fine. Then I turned it off and tried to start it and the starter was dragging again. I don't have the heat riser flapper on the exhaust and it is just frozen in the open position. Would this have any effects after the truck has warmed up? I will be checking the charge on the battery and possibly changing the starter. I have a 12v system. How do I check if this is a main problem?
Jeff, If your car is 6 volt you need a 1154 bulb. 12 volt use a 1157 bulb. You do know the bulbs in your current light are single Filament. If you change to a dual Filament 1154/1157 you will have to change the socket accordingly.. Harold
That lens was designed to have two bulbs, one for the running light to shine through the top and the stop light to be lined up with the bulls-eye on the bottom. Putting one bulb (1157) in the center, upper or lower position will diminish the capacity of the other areas and not be as effective in my opinion.
Some more shots of Victor's van. VEW once made a very unwise decision to let Billy and I take it for a spin ... Man that van is fun to drive! I was a little concerned when Billy had it up on two wheels, but it turned out ok...
Heed what Jerry says -- A lifetime of experience there.
In more than 20 years of running this forum, we've never had *anyone* report back after ignoring advice like that... It's either "Yeah, I took your advice and rebuilt the engine. Man, you should have seen the bearings/crank journals/cylinder walls/cam lobs/etc -- they were trashed! Thanks for the advice" or we get crickets.
My guess is that no one wants to admit "Yeah you told me to rebuild it but I went ahead and ran it anyway ... and now the engine is a bunch of little pieces of scrap metal. Just like you warned me."
Now I have a pair of original tail lights for my 37,not sure if I am going to keep the two bulbs or got with one 1157 in each light. I need to order gaskets and conduit and might be winter before I can get to them since we had nothing but rain I need to do a bunch of other work around the house.
Do an air pressure test. Loosen the adjustment on both valves on cyl. #1, turn the crankshaft so the piston is at the bottom of the stroke, and put air pressure into the cylinder. If there's a major crack or a blown cylinder wall, you'll get a big volume of air escaping from the radiator hose fittings and no pressure buildup. If it pressurizes, the engine might be rebuildable. Either way, I'd consider it to be a "rebuildable core" at best. Sometimes the expensive lessons are the most lasting ones. Jerry
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Hi gear. If I understand correctly, you are looking for the bracket and rod linkage that attaches to the fire wall and connects your existing pedal to the carb. The one for a v8 is different than a v6. The linkages are the same for pick ups because they share the same cab. Pick you favorite aftermarket truck restoration supplier and they should be able to hook you up. I purchased mine from Luttys Chevy Warehouse in Saxonburg Pa. I believe you will find dimples on the firewall where you will need to drill new holes for the v8 bracket if your truck came with a v6 originally.
If you're boring the block anyway, 235 aluminum pistons will be a drop-in fit with no other modifications. The wrist pin size and compression height are identical to 216 cast iron pistons. The bore would be 1/16" oversize, (0.0625") for a total of 224 cubic inches. The main advantage to using aluminum pistons will be less reciprocating weight- - - -quicker acceleration, and there will be less stress on those Babbit rod bearings, also.
Drop me a PM and I'll share a few other tricks an experienced engine man can incorporate into a basically stock rebuild without bumping the cost up significantly. Jon is right on the money about carburetion- - - -it's a lot easier to build a stovebolt engine for more torque than it is to chase those elusive high-RPM gremlins who are impossible to catch. Jerry
You can buy new ones from Benz Springs in Portland. About 500 if I remember correctly. By the time I sell these on ebay at $150 I get about 100 dollars. Ebay takes 15% of the price, and what I collect on shipping. These weigh a lot. That makes shipping expensive. Shipping prices have gone through the roof. I also have to pay federal taxes as well as sales tax on my items. If I could have purchase front springs for any of my trucks when I was building them for $150 I would have. I've purchased springs from members of this very forum for more. $150 dollars for good useable spring is dreaming, but not mine. That's what happens when you spend $500 for new ones. You dream of cheaper springs. I would be happy to sell the springs to you at any price you like. I also have a brand new pair that has never been used. Exact same length. But they are made a little differently, and say Dodge on the tag. But I have no idea if they are dodge springs. Regards,dan