'Bolters helping 'Bolters is a beautiful thing!
Thinking that just because your favorite parts supplier lists a rubber thingy and a square metal box with two holes in that you're good to go as far as the front engine mount on your 235 engine?? Well if you are, then you are oh so wrong -- there's actually two additional pieces! Don't panic, though -- you have plenty of company (the Editor is in that boat with you ). To help sort this mess out, here's our old friend Don to help you sort out the ....
First things first!
Before we even get started, we'd better settle the issue of just what, exactly, comprises the front motor mount on the 235 engines (most of the pre-Sixties straight sixes, actually).
Something to keep in mind is that the vendors don't have the complete nomenclature.
Here's the skinny from the 1929 - 1957 Master Parts & Accessories Catalog: (Thanks to Keith Hardy )
Here are the pieces. If you want to see all the pieces, I have front motor mount assembly photos here on my Picasa photo hosting site. These should come in handy for anyone wanting to fabricate their own. The clearance between the retainer and the plate is critical and is described in this section of the 1948 - 1951 Chevy Truck Shop Manual. The clearance should be between 3/64" and 5/64" unloaded with mount installed. If the clearance is less than 3/64" the retainer should be filed or machined. If the clearance is more than 5/64" the retainer requires replacement.
Jim Carter -- ME533 Motor Mount Shield (3656502 Shield). They do not carry the plate or retainer
As best as I can determine, the two carriage bolts used for the engine bracket / plate / mount / retainer / frame segment are 7/16-14 X 2 (Steel Grade 5) and can be found at Bolt Depot.com. The shield / frame segment bolts are 3/8-16 X 2 and not required to be grade 5.
Putting it all together
Thanks to Dave Razey [ 1954 Chevy 5-window Shortbox ] for his help with this part!
Now that there is a clear picture of all the components for the front mount, let me offer a bit of advice that is gleaned from the shop manual and from my practical experience(s).
The Rubber Mount
I replaced my soggy original with a rubber repo from one of the major suppliers. It's a drop-in, but wait a minute .... you'd better make sure that you get it oriented properly (slots up) and the required clearances between the bottom housing and the top plate. If you assume that a new rubber insert will bring the clearances back up to snuff, you may be in for some nasty vibrations that won't be evident until you get everything installed and the engine cranked up!!! I found the clamping the assembly in the vise ... to simulate the weight of the 620+ pound engine ... left me with little or no required clearance. The lower "box" had to be dressed down. Evidently, the repo rubber insert was not quite as thick as the original.
The Harmonic Balancer
Hopefully we can save someone else from frustration!
Garage???? Are you talking about the parts bin with the rather large doors?