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#887061 - Fri Oct 05 2012 04:54 AM Re: clutch head bolt removal [Re: BLUEMEANIE]
Kurt_51carryall Offline
Shop Shark
Registered: Sat Aug 27 2011 09:29 PM
Posts: 889
Loc: Raleigh,NC
Yeah, the right size bit is critical. I got a nice set a few years ago, for the most part they fit snug, sometimes I have to tap them into the screw head.

Kurt
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#887078 - Fri Oct 05 2012 06:05 AM Re: clutch head bolt removal [Re: Kurt_51carryall]
johntsmith Offline
Shop Shark
Registered: Fri Sep 24 2010 03:39 PM
Posts: 783
Loc: Tampa Bay FL
When I strip out a clutch head I take a cutting wheel in my dremmel and CAREFULLY cut a slot into the top of the screw and then use a flat bladed screw driver. Same for rounded bolt heads and stripped phillip heads. Make sure your slot and blade are a snug fit.

In our garage we have a rule that clutch head screws can only be turned counter clock wise!


Edited by johntsmith (Fri Oct 05 2012 06:07 AM)
_________________________
My Fleet:
1941
1953
1959
1965
1966
1953 Willy's Pickup

John

Vegetarian- old Indian word for bad hunter
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#887087 - Fri Oct 05 2012 06:27 AM Re: clutch head bolt removal [Re: Midpiner]
Kurt_51carryall Offline
Shop Shark
Registered: Sat Aug 27 2011 09:29 PM
Posts: 889
Loc: Raleigh,NC
I still have most of my original clutch head screws/bolts, but I am missing a few, (such as one of the screws that holds on the voltage regulator) I hope you guys that are replacing them might consider dropping any good ones in an envelope and mailing them to me......

Thanks,

Kurt
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#887157 - Fri Oct 05 2012 10:55 AM Re: clutch head bolt removal [Re: Midpiner]
cletis Offline
Registered: Sat May 19 2001 12:00 PM
Posts: 11024
Loc: Parker County Texas
I find that using a scribe to clean the clutch head socket first helps. I also try to tighten the screw first to break the rust. As mentioned above, penetrating oil helps. In stubborn cases I heat them. I rarely need to drill one out. Of course I realize the climate a truck spent its life in may have some bearing on the ease of dis-assembly.
_________________________
"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
1954 GMC Suburban
My TRUCKS website
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#887189 - Fri Oct 05 2012 01:03 PM Re: clutch head bolt removal [Re: Kurt_51carryall]
BLUEMEANIE Offline
Shop Shark
Registered: Mon Mar 07 2011 01:26 AM
Posts: 1106
Loc: St.L MO
Originally Posted By Kurt_51carryall
I hope you guys that are replacing them might consider dropping any good ones in an envelope and mailing them to me......

You got it! PM me your mailing address. I'll set aside all the good ones for ya.
_________________________
1951 Chevy 3100
In the Stovebolt Gallery
www.rustyfiftyone.com
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#887199 - Fri Oct 05 2012 01:48 PM Re: clutch head bolt removal [Re: Midpiner]
bartamos Offline
Shop Shark
Registered: Thu May 26 2005 12:00 PM
Posts: 4368
Loc: AZ
If those would have been Phillips heads, long ago, and rusted in place, as they did, the head would have stripped easier than clutch. The "Phillips", actually called cross recess, is probably the worst head to remove when rusted. We have all become accustom to Phillips and they are widely available. The aerospace industry tried to get rid if the cross recessed head because it is just about the only head that needs downward force to tighten and loosen. All the rest just need torque and don't "wind" out like Phillips. We could not change over because there were so many out there already and not all service centers, repair facilities and etc would have a torx or allen or square or clutch or star or whatever was decided to be the new head..... and slotted is not driver retaining. The good side of cross recessed is that it stays on the driver fairly well for assemblers, they do ok in low torque requirements and it's configuration allows for a stronger screw head, especially flathead. A new/cleaned clutch head screw with proper driver works very well and ORIGINAL!
_________________________
1960 GMC K1001 Shortbed Wideside BBW CC V6
If it ain't broke, I will break it.
Shouldn't it be spelled Prenuptial Claws?
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#887206 - Fri Oct 05 2012 02:07 PM Re: clutch head bolt removal [Re: Midpiner]
BIG CHEVY 3600 Offline
Master Gabster
Registered: Tue Oct 10 2006 12:00 PM
Posts: 5341
Loc: DALLAS/BLANCO TEXAS
Stainless with anti-cease is the best way to go unless you're into the original show condition.
_________________________
Jim
Big Chevy's Photobucket pix
FIRST START http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fb-4nPArk98

Modern ‘science’: the wonder of a
pre-determined mind…

The ‘baseline belief’ of astronomy:
“Any day now, we’ll pick up a tiny,
coded signal from outer space. Then
we’ll know for certain that there is
intelligence out there, because coded
information does not arise by chance”

The ‘baseline belief’ of biology:
The precisely coded genetic information in
every cell would fill many books…
but we know for certain that no intelligence
could have created life.”


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#887249 - Fri Oct 05 2012 04:05 PM Re: clutch head bolt removal [Re: Midpiner]
tclederman Offline
Registered: Tue Sep 18 2001 12:00 PM
Posts: 23462
Loc: Jarvisburg, NC
The clutch head bolts were far superior to other bolt/screw heads. As stated above, any-headed bolt is a pain when rusted.

http://1954advance-design.com/Web%20images/clutch-head-1.jpg

Kurt, PM me what clutch head bolts/screws you need. Another stovebolter sent me all of his. If I have extras, I'll "pay it forward" to you.
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#887260 - Fri Oct 05 2012 06:02 PM Re: clutch head bolt removal [Re: Midpiner]
bartamos Offline
Shop Shark
Registered: Thu May 26 2005 12:00 PM
Posts: 4368
Loc: AZ
Bluemeanie and Tclederman: Sometimes I need reminded, That's what this site is all about. Good job boys.
_________________________
1960 GMC K1001 Shortbed Wideside BBW CC V6
If it ain't broke, I will break it.
Shouldn't it be spelled Prenuptial Claws?
Top
#887419 - Sat Oct 06 2012 01:43 PM Re: clutch head bolt removal [Re: Midpiner]
Midpiner Offline
Shop Shark
Registered: Mon Jun 04 2012 11:59 PM
Posts: 103
Loc: Escalon Ca.
Thanks for all the replys.Will try the impact on the other side.
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