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#838743 - Mon Mar 26 2012 08:48 AM Tips On Removing Screws
Hellomrwilson Offline
Shop Shark
Registered: Fri Sep 03 2010 03:15 PM
Posts: 904
Loc: Palestine, Texas
I'm trying to remove the glove box assembly on my '59 and there are some phillips screws that I can't seem to pursuade to break loose. I'd like to save them if I can and fear I'll strip out the heads if I get too impatient.
I've tried inserting an old phillips screw driver and tapping the driver with a hammer to "shock" the threads grip, then I put my body weight into getting a good "bite"... no luck.
Any tips or tricks are appreciated!
Jerry
_________________________
1959 Chevy Apache 3200 Stepside
In the Stovebolt Gallery
Restoration Journal on Facebook

"A government that robs Peter to pay Paul can always depend on the support of Paul." ~ George Bernard Shaw
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#838744 - Mon Mar 26 2012 08:53 AM Re: Tips On Removing Screws [Re: Hellomrwilson]
chevoldsmoyota Offline
Wrench Fetcher
Registered: Thu Apr 16 2009 08:30 AM
Posts: 159
Loc: Preston, Idaho USA
Penetrating oil is one tip that most would agree on. Try this too: "using your body weight to get a good bite" as before, tighten the screws just a bit. This gets them moving, but if you do slip, then the rounded part is on the tightening side of the philips slots, and not on the loosening side.

Hope this makes sense and helps!

Craig
_________________________
It is neither wealth nor splendor, but tranquility in occupation which brings happiness. - Thomas Jefferson

CK
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#838745 - Mon Mar 26 2012 09:08 AM Re: Tips On Removing Screws [Re: chevoldsmoyota]
Hellomrwilson Offline
Shop Shark
Registered: Fri Sep 03 2010 03:15 PM
Posts: 904
Loc: Palestine, Texas
Thanks Craig.
I didn't try any WD40, as the phillip screw heads are flanged and I didn't think the oil would get to the threads... won't hurt to try, anyway.
Tightening to break a thread grip is a different approach. If the threads of the screw are protruding beyond the female threads they're engaged in, those protruding threads could be a problem too. This is why a lot of hex screws snap off. Maybe I could get the penetrating oil to the other side... if I can find access.
Working the threads forward then back would certainly help.

Jerry
_________________________
1959 Chevy Apache 3200 Stepside
In the Stovebolt Gallery
Restoration Journal on Facebook

"A government that robs Peter to pay Paul can always depend on the support of Paul." ~ George Bernard Shaw
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#838825 - Mon Mar 26 2012 01:33 PM Re: Tips On Removing Screws [Re: Hellomrwilson]
chevoldsmoyota Offline
Wrench Fetcher
Registered: Thu Apr 16 2009 08:30 AM
Posts: 159
Loc: Preston, Idaho USA
True about the back threads causing problems. Not so much on sheetmetal screws, but I know of a lot of farmers around here who will just tighten a bolt until it breaks rather than try to fight rusty bolts jamming in the nut.

Good luck with the glove box! I sent you a p.m. too.

Craig
_________________________
It is neither wealth nor splendor, but tranquility in occupation which brings happiness. - Thomas Jefferson

CK
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#838834 - Mon Mar 26 2012 01:55 PM Re: Tips On Removing Screws [Re: chevoldsmoyota]
Hellomrwilson Offline
Shop Shark
Registered: Fri Sep 03 2010 03:15 PM
Posts: 904
Loc: Palestine, Texas
Got the PM and reciprocated.

My recent experience in snapping screws is from the gas tank straps and seat. I can drill those out though and easily replace them since they're hex head. I don't know how special the phillips-head screws are for the glove-box, but I'd rather not have to find out if they're a hard to find item.
I'm also having trouble removing the door mirror screws!
Jerry
_________________________
1959 Chevy Apache 3200 Stepside
In the Stovebolt Gallery
Restoration Journal on Facebook

"A government that robs Peter to pay Paul can always depend on the support of Paul." ~ George Bernard Shaw
Top
#838837 - Mon Mar 26 2012 02:07 PM Re: Tips On Removing Screws [Re: Hellomrwilson]
TxLaTx Offline
Shop Shark
Registered: Sun May 21 2006 12:00 PM
Posts: 1145
Loc: Fort Worth, TX USA
...and try some penetrating oil other than WD40. Try PB Blaster or Kroil or your favorite.

Bill
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#838840 - Mon Mar 26 2012 02:37 PM Re: Tips On Removing Screws [Re: TxLaTx]
Hellomrwilson Offline
Shop Shark
Registered: Fri Sep 03 2010 03:15 PM
Posts: 904
Loc: Palestine, Texas
Thanks for the tip, Bill.
I reckon WD40 is to me, as duct tape to others... smile

Does Wally carry PB Blaster or will I need to visit FLAPS?

Jerry
_________________________
1959 Chevy Apache 3200 Stepside
In the Stovebolt Gallery
Restoration Journal on Facebook

"A government that robs Peter to pay Paul can always depend on the support of Paul." ~ George Bernard Shaw
Top
#838842 - Mon Mar 26 2012 02:46 PM Re: Tips On Removing Screws [Re: TxLaTx]
CASO Offline
Shop Shark
Registered: Fri Jun 10 2011 10:16 PM
Posts: 1639
Loc: Warrenton, Oregon
Saw this over on the HAMB and it is the cats meow... at least I was purring after using it. Also after reading the Kroil vrs PB Blaster thread here I ordered some kroil and I find it hands down better than the PB I had tried up till now...

I was able to remove all the original bed/fender bolts without a single loss which was about 90% better than my past experience with similar bolts or screws on this truck. I gave the bolts several blasts of kroil over a week or two before tryng to remove them but the key for me was taking a small wire wheel to the exposed threads, then working the screw both ways. Tighten a touch more then loosen then tighten and hit with Kroil then loosen. The little tool worked great to bust things loose while turning.

rusty screw tool

_________________________
Give me ambiguity
or give me something else
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#838843 - Mon Mar 26 2012 03:00 PM Re: Tips On Removing Screws [Re: CASO]
Hellomrwilson Offline
Shop Shark
Registered: Fri Sep 03 2010 03:15 PM
Posts: 904
Loc: Palestine, Texas
Thanks CASO.
Experience is the best teacher... sometimes I have to learn more than once!
These glove box screws attach the hinge to the lid and to the dash. I won't be able to remove the dash side screws till the heater assembly is out.
hmmm...
You know, I could see the ends of the screws on the dash side where the lid screw ends were concealed. Maybe I should take out the heater and gain access to the screw heads from that end, instead. I would be ok with leaving the hinge to lid still attached for painting. At least the assembly would be removed from the dash, which is my objective here.
I'll find some Kroil... again, FLAPS?
I still have bed/fenders to contend with so I'll be travelling down your road. Your input is certainly appreciated!
Jerry
_________________________
1959 Chevy Apache 3200 Stepside
In the Stovebolt Gallery
Restoration Journal on Facebook

"A government that robs Peter to pay Paul can always depend on the support of Paul." ~ George Bernard Shaw
Top
#838845 - Mon Mar 26 2012 03:15 PM Re: Tips On Removing Screws [Re: Hellomrwilson]
CASO Offline
Shop Shark
Registered: Fri Jun 10 2011 10:16 PM
Posts: 1639
Loc: Warrenton, Oregon
I think the Kroil is somewhat geographic in its availability, I just ordered it on line.
I believe I had my heater out when I pulled the GB door off (it's been a while) but if you get there the nice thing about that little home made tool is it works with what ever bit you need to use cool
_________________________
Give me ambiguity
or give me something else
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