>> "couple of things to consider.
if it is a 1 piece d/shaft and you didn't cut it it shorten it there should be no prolem with the shaft."
yes. the driveshaft is a NEW one-piece unit. it was installed at the same time my tranny was installed back in March (no vibrations then).

>> "if you put iyt in the vise to remove a ujoint and tightened it up on the tubing then you quished it and possibly bent it."
nope, no vice/ no crushing

>> "if you didn't alter the shaft or remove any you joints then you can't put it back in wrong"
ok... =|

>> "the thing that more than likely happened is that a ijoint cap came off and a needle or 2 dropped and is trapped in the nnd of the cap causing you a problem."
YES!!! a cap did fall off and hit the ground. i never saw any needles tho. i just picked up the cap and pushed it back on the u-joint--then reinstalled the snap-ring. i realize i shouldn't have been messing with the u-joint to remove the driveshaft, but this was my first time under there and i wasnt sure HOW to get my driveshaft out to access my tranny's tailhousing.

so, not knowing anything about a needle or what actually happened, where do i go from here...? (thx, btw)

Sound like you're ready for a new U-joint.

But if you ever have any questions about driveshafts and how they are installed or how they work/function check the Links in this Tech tip: http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/driveline/setup/index.html

Grigg

you wouldn't have seen the needles unless you looked inside of the cap before you put it back on. the needles are just held in there by grease. sometimes one may pull out just a bit when you remove a cap and when you go to replace the cap and the cross or end of that little shaft will push the needle sideways under the end of the cap (dropped needle) and then you force the cap on and there isn't really any room there for that needle and causes you problems or it doesn't sit all the way into the yoke and you tighten up the little ubolts that hold it together and that causes your problems.
as Grigg says you need a new ujoint. don't drop any needles either installing it in the shaft or unto the rear flange. and don't put the d/shaft tubing in the vise.
it happens to just about everyone and iyt is marked up to experience
have a good one as it is not serious
ron
remember which way the zerk fitting faces when you install the cross in the shaft

well, when the cap dropped off the U-Joint, it was on the topside of the driveshaft--away from me. so, i couldnt see it.

i just reached down, grabbed the U-Joint cap and pushed it back on.

however, if the zirk fitting's "direction" is critical, i'm back to wondering if i should just rotate the driveshaft 90 degrees and rebolt/test drive it a few times to see if the driveshaft's balance/rotational position is critical.

any final thoughts? (should i rotate/rebolt the driveshaft or just change the U-Joint?)

thanks for everyone's input,

mechttu
Houston, TX

Change the u-joint. The zirk only changes when you change the u-joint.

Removing the driveshaft flange or the U-bolts and reattaching it in a different position makes no difference.

Having the U-joints on both ends of the same shaft lined up with each other makes all the difference. If you had a good shaft and both ends are welded on then you couldn't have messed that up.
If you have a slip joint in the shaft or a spline of some sort between the two U-joints there is a chance you slipped it together in the wrong position.
The Spicer manuals in the the tech tip explain why this orientation is important (and the few occasions when a different angle is advisable).

So far from your description sounds like you have a bad U-joint, it's easy to do.. We've all probably done it at least once.
Do you have a picture of the shaft?

Grigg

grigg - if the joint wasn't taken out completely, there's no way to mis-align it relative to the other end. bec it can only go back in two ways, 180degrees difference, but either way would still put it back in alignment with the other end. no?

he does have a 700r4 so there is no slip yokes between the joints. all that he has to do is install a new ujoint and put it back in. there would be no wrong way to put the shaft back in. it can be put in one way or 180 degrees and it makes no difference in this application
ron

That's what I'm thinking, but wasn't going to eliminate a slip yoke and or joint phasing problem without seeing a picture or a good description of what he has.

For example, both of these shafts could be assembled wrong http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/driveline/setup/a.jpg
But one with yokes welded on each end can not be assembled wrong... (unless welded together wrong to start with)

Grigg

A good U joint will not make a "thunk" when rotated. They are a completely snug fit and shouldn't show any play at all.