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#479677 - Sun Dec 07 2008 04:34 PM Por 15 vs Eastwood Rust Converter
SD66Burb Offline
Shop Shark
Registered: Fri Nov 28 2008 03:46 PM
Posts: 291
Loc: San Diego, CA
I have not used either of these products, but I will be before long. I have heard of the Por 15 for some time, but I have not heard anything about the Eastwood Rust Converter product. Does anyone have any experience or comparisons? Pro's or Con's? I read in another post where the Por 15 was not really recommended for painted area's, but I see the Eastwood product is recommended for it. Any info appreciated.
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#479760 - Sun Dec 07 2008 08:22 PM Re: Por 15 vs Eastwood Rust Converter [Re: SD66Burb]
00Truck Offline
Wrench Fetcher
Registered: Wed Mar 07 2007 12:00 PM
Posts: 70
Loc: Salinas, CA
The Eastwood product is called Rust Encapsulator. I've used with good results and routinely use it on metal parts that will be spray bombed with enamel. You mention product comparisons. Larry Lyles who runs a restoration shop in Texas and writes articles for a magazine called Auto Restorer did a direct comparison between POR-15 and Rust Encapsulator a couple of years ago. A sample with areas coasted with both products was left outside his shop exposed to the elements and I think he even sprayed salt water on the sample. Anyway, Rust Encapsulator came out on top. It used to be available only in a red lead type color but now is available in black and silver too, quarts or spray cans. I don't work for Eastwood. That's just a good product.
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#479768 - Sun Dec 07 2008 08:45 PM Re: Por 15 vs Eastwood Rust Converter [Re: 00Truck]
david dyehouse Offline
Shop Shark
Registered: Fri Mar 25 2005 12:00 PM
Posts: 2702
Loc: franklin,ohio
i have used por15 and found it takes a lot of prep according to the instructions.i also used chassis saver and liked it alot.basically hit it with a wire brush to knock off the loose stuff and paint over it.did the inside of my cab(celing,back and floor-firewall in satin black and really liked the end results.plus the fact it was only $20.00 a quart.my .02 .............dave
_________________________
1949 Chevrolet 3100

"When this thing hits 88 miles an hour, you're going to see some serious sh%t." -Doc Brown
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#479781 - Sun Dec 07 2008 09:08 PM Re: Por 15 vs Eastwood Rust Converter [Re: david dyehouse]
Achipmunk Online
Registered: Tue Dec 11 2001 12:00 PM
Posts: 13893
Loc: Boiling Springs, S. C. 29316
I have NOT used Rust Encapsulator but I have used a good bit of Por15. I like the stuff but I have NEVER used it, or anything else over rust to stop it. I blast and directly use Por15 on the chassis and other parts. It is a doggone tough product and yes, you need to follow instructions about using good respirator. I have never sprayed it...always brushed it on and it smooths out well. It does not have anything to stop the UV rays so it will fade in the sunlight unless you spray a good coat of enamel over it. If the part is decently clean I think either would work good. If I ever order Eastwoods I will have an "honest" opinion.
I have a new quart sitting on my shelf now.
_________________________
1937 Chevy Pickup
1952 Chevy Panel
Pictures in my Photobucket

I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you smile
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#479991 - Mon Dec 08 2008 03:06 PM Re: Por 15 vs Eastwood Rust Converter [Re: Achipmunk]
c53 Offline
Wrench Fetcher
Registered: Wed Oct 31 2007 11:08 AM
Posts: 73
Loc: MD, Hagerstown
I recently struggled with the same decision. Don't have anything against either but made a personal choice. I've worked in and around more dangerous chemicals than I care to remember and am certain it has taken a toll. I went with Rust Encapsulator only because it has no isocyanates that can turn your lungs to concrete if not properly applied. Other than not being gasoline resistant I am very satisfied with the product. If I ever use POR 15 you can bet I will strictly observe the safety recommendations.
my 2 cents.....Bob
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#480049 - Mon Dec 08 2008 05:50 PM Re: Por 15 vs Eastwood Rust Converter [Re: c53]
BIG CHEVY 3600 Offline
Master Gabster
Registered: Tue Oct 10 2006 12:00 PM
Posts: 5293
Loc: DALLAS/BLANCO TEXAS
I agree with Bob. I have used both Eastwood's Encapsualtor and Loctite's Rust Converter. They are both basicly the same, however Loctite is not as expensive as Eastwood's product. BTW there are several brands of this sort of product including Rustolem. I have only tried Eastwood's and Loctite's.
_________________________
Jim
Big Chevy's Photobucket pix
FIRST START http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fb-4nPArk98

Atheism
The belief that there was nothing
and nothing happened to nothing and
then nothing magically exploded for
no reason, creating everything and
then a bunch of everything magically
rearranged itself for no reason whatsoever
into self-replicating bits which then turned
into dinosaurs.
Makes perfect sense.


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#480290 - Tue Dec 09 2008 08:30 AM Re: Por 15 vs Eastwood Rust Converter [Re: BIG CHEVY 3600]
SW_Radial Offline
Shop Shark
Registered: Thu Mar 23 2006 12:00 PM
Posts: 3481
Loc: Pennsylvania
I used Eastwoods 2 part rust converter topped off with there rust encapsulator...on my windshield frame and was more than pleased with the results.
Tim
_________________________
1952 Chevy Shortbed

Photos in Photobucket

If It Aint Broke Fix It Till It Is!
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#480373 - Tue Dec 09 2008 01:40 PM Re: Por 15 vs Eastwood Rust Converter [Re: SW_Radial]
jomichael Offline
Shop Shark
Registered: Fri Jul 29 2005 12:00 PM
Posts: 1045
Loc: Vero Beach, Florida
I have used both and heres my story.
I wire-wheeled my axles on my NAPCO down to bare metal and cleaned them up real well. Sprayed Eastwoods Rust Converter on the axles (the instructions say you can apply it to bare metal) . Bought Chassis Black to topcoat. One day, a cross sill tipped over and hit the axle and the Rust Encapsulator chipped like glass! I could chip it off with my finger nails. I called the tech guys and they said that it was not to be used on bare metal! I read them the instructions and they were not sure what to say. I was pretty ****. I didn't abandon Eastwood quite yet. I ordered Epoxy Primer, re-wire-wheeled the axles (there was a lot of swearing that day), and sprayed the Epoxy Primer. Turned out very nice and wouldn't chip. I followed up with Chassis Black and have been happy ever since. I have chipped the Chassis Black every once and awhile. But all I do is scuff and spray some more. Very easy and not deadly when sprayed from a gun or the aerosol.
Now POR 15. I decided that I would paint the inside of my fenders, inner fenders, cab floor and under the cab with POR 15. I started with the inner fenders. They were media blasted and I brushed two coats on. The first coat seemed to soak into the metal the second coat was a little harder to brush on because the first was lightly tacky. The end result is pretty good and a hell of a lot tougher than Chassis Black. I tried sanding a run and almost had to break out the grinder! I am currently painting my cab floor and the bottom. Then I will use their Tie Coat Primer on top, sand, and spray their Hardnose Light Yellow for a topcoat. This is all in areas that will not be painted with my body color which will be yellow too. The inside of the cab is a little hard and there may be a little overlap between the two paint systems. I will keep you all updated if you are interested and I will take pics along the way. In my opinion so far, I think Chassis Black is easier to apply and looks better because I was spraying it. The POR is great for places that are out of sight and where rust is a problem.
Michael
_________________________
1955.2 Chevy 3100 NAPCO
In the Stovebolt Gallery
Action on You-tube!
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#481747 - Sat Dec 13 2008 10:07 AM Re: Por 15 vs Eastwood Rust Converter [Re: jomichael]
jmmmn37 Offline
Wrench Fetcher
Registered: Tue Mar 28 2000 12:00 PM
Posts: 103
Loc: Northfield, MN, USA
I've used a lot of Eastwood's products. Their full treatment for rust includes Rust Converter, Rust Encapsulator, and Chassis Black or another topcoat. The Rust Converter was originally a two-part mix that was brushed (or could be sprayed with thinning). Eastwood has now come out with an aerosol for Rust Converter. I have been very pleased with the rust converter. I think Michael's experience about spraying rust encapsulator on bare metal is probably accurate--I have noticed that it bonds better to previously covered metal, or certainly to metal treated with rust converter. The rust converter followed by rust encapsulator is great for places like the underside/inner parts of the frame/body, etc., where you really cannot get at it with grinder, blaster, etc. I have never used POR-15; the safety issues, respirators, cleanup, etc., have deterred me. And I've read the stuff by Larry Lyles referred to above--he swears by the Eastwood products. Of course, it may be that he is under some sort of endorsement contract with them--I don't know. But his books and articles on body work and painting are top notch, and he's incredibly knowledgeable about all facets of restoration. In addition, he's very generous with his time and expertise (I've corresponded with him, asking him several questions). So, I trust his judgment. So far, the stuff I've sprayed with the Eastwood products is holding up fine.

Good luck!

Jim
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#481752 - Sat Dec 13 2008 10:29 AM Re: Por 15 vs Eastwood Rust Converter [Re: jmmmn37]
BIG CHEVY 3600 Offline
Master Gabster
Registered: Tue Oct 10 2006 12:00 PM
Posts: 5293
Loc: DALLAS/BLANCO TEXAS
Shop around...
I agree with the common thread here. Eastwood products are of high quality and great to use. However most of those products are not a product of patent and are copied by other companies at more reasonable prices. What most do not know, there are only a few aerosol caners in this country. Many companies selling paint etc. in aerosol cans use the same factories to can their product. It is done to their specs and with their label.
Therefore it would be wise to investigate before you purchase, you may find the same product under a different label for a considerably lower price.
Just my 2 cents…
_________________________
Jim
Big Chevy's Photobucket pix
FIRST START http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fb-4nPArk98

Atheism
The belief that there was nothing
and nothing happened to nothing and
then nothing magically exploded for
no reason, creating everything and
then a bunch of everything magically
rearranged itself for no reason whatsoever
into self-replicating bits which then turned
into dinosaurs.
Makes perfect sense.


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