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#429633 - Sat Jul 05 2008 11:16 AM Re: to blast or not to blast that is the ? [Re: rockhammer]
63truckman Offline
New Guy
Registered: Sun Jun 22 2008 02:11 PM
Posts: 13
Loc: Clintwood, VA
The problem with my truck is it looks like someone (hopefuly a well meaning kid) Put what looks like house paint on this truck. We tried to sand it off but it was like sanding a piece of sand paper made of diamonds. The sand blasting is taking off this junk quick. I still think i will try something else on the hood and door. I hope the more in depth in this truck i get you guys will be here for me
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1963 Chevy C-10 Stepside
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#430633 - Tue Jul 08 2008 09:46 AM Re: to blast or not to blast that is the ? [Re: 63truckman]
Raptor Offline
Wrench Fetcher
Registered: Wed Mar 19 2008 11:08 PM
Posts: 174
Loc: USA
This was a great topic. I concur with an experience blaster can get the job done right.. An amateur can too, if he/she take his/her time and has been taught the right way !! .

Remember - Quality is remembered long after price is forgotten

BUT - with prices these days... this may take a while :-)


Edited by Raptor (Tue Jul 08 2008 09:47 AM)
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Restoring the WHITE TRUCK... (A 1968 CST)
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#430753 - Tue Jul 08 2008 04:37 PM Re: to blast or not to blast that is the ? [Re: rockhammer]
jomichael Offline
Shop Shark
Registered: Fri Jul 29 2005 12:00 PM
Posts: 1045
Loc: Vero Beach, Florida
I would stay away from sand as a blasting media as it can destroy your lungs. Ever heard of Silicosis? I'm having my cab blasted with soda first because it is gentle and will get most stuff off. Then it will be blasted with glass beads for the stubborn rust areas. I tried blasting stuff on my own and found it to be dirty, slow miserable process. I think its worth having someone professional do it.

Good luck
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#430982 - Wed Jul 09 2008 04:31 AM Re: to blast or not to blast that is the ? [Re: jomichael]
4ontheFloor Offline
Registered: Mon Oct 29 2001 12:00 PM
Posts: 5487
Loc: Forest Grove, OR
I look at sandblasting/stripping like I look at cat work- sure, I could rent a bulldozer and do it myself, but I'm time, money, hassle, and sunburn ahead to hire somebody else to do it. Sandblasting just goes that much easier if somebody else is pointing the gun.
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A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic.
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#433254 - Wed Jul 16 2008 03:54 PM Re: to blast or not to blast that is the ? [Re: 4ontheFloor]
UnklRod Offline
Shop Shark
Registered: Thu Jun 12 2008 08:58 PM
Posts: 783
Loc: Santa Rosa, Ca
Any thoughts on the crushed walnut shells idea? I am looking into blasting my 57 Chevy truck. Also, POR 15, powder coating? What would you all suggest. Thanks for all the writting on this topic...Jon
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The coldest winter I ever saw was a summer I spent in San Francisco M. Twain

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#433386 - Wed Jul 16 2008 10:11 PM Re: to blast or not to blast that is the ? [Re: UnklRod]
Scott Danforth Offline
Shop Shark
Registered: Thu Aug 09 2007 12:00 PM
Posts: 3451
Loc: Cheesehead in Paradise
for what its worth, I have done chemical stripping - both paying for dipping and using aircraft paint stripper (caution, eats skin). . I have also had items sand blasted, soda blasted, walnut blasted, bead blasted, shot blasted, baked, acid dipped, etc. I now like using a 20:1 ratio of Muriatic acid for cleaning followed by a soda ash neutralizing bath on fenders and other small things. Sand Blasting is still best for frames, etc. I now pay to have others blast as I have done it myself, and now lean towards 4ontheFloor's method. Hire someone to do it. There is a really nice shop between my house and work. And the best part is if he blasts a car, he also primes it with PPG self etching epoxy primer and a primer sealer as standard practice. If you refuse the primer, he makes you sign a waiver indicating such.

Scott
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#433515 - Thu Jul 17 2008 09:03 AM Re: to blast or not to blast that is the ? [Re: Scott Danforth]
Milhouse Offline
Wrench Fetcher
Registered: Tue Oct 01 2002 12:00 PM
Posts: 194
Loc: RI
Figured I'd put in my $0.02...

I've done sand blasting and have both warped panels and had it come out perfectly. When I was back in high school (10 years ago) I blasted the rear fenders of my '47 Chevy coupe with play sand. With using the sand, being inexperienced, and trying to be thorough I warped both fenders, one really bad. Since then I've blasted using coal slag (available in 100lb bags at the local hardware store for $13) on the cab of my '55 3200 2nd series and it worked extremely well. I was told to avoid the roof because that could easily warp, but everything else would hold up just fine. I've also been told that play sand is extremely cancerous and you should never blast with actual sand, only blasting media (coal slag, glass, walnut, etc).

As for the frame, I've just been going through mine with a wire brush and Por-15, and it looks amazing and seems like it will hold up extremely well. I've been working on the same gallon of Por-15 for almost 10 years and it has been well worth the price.

Good luck with the blasting! I'd love to see some pictures smile
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Neil
1955 Chevy 3200
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#433694 - Thu Jul 17 2008 07:44 PM Re: to blast or not to blast that is the ? [Re: Milhouse]
UnklRod Offline
Shop Shark
Registered: Thu Jun 12 2008 08:58 PM
Posts: 783
Loc: Santa Rosa, Ca
Neil,
On the POR 15 I hear you can just coat the frame and not really have to worry about the rust. Is that true? I have never heard about a product that really "stops rust." Can you sand blast the frame, and soda blast the thinner parts? Then put the POR 15 on the frame? Thanks! Jon
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1957 Chevy 1/2-Ton Truck
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix

The coldest winter I ever saw was a summer I spent in San Francisco M. Twain

If at first you don't succeed...skydiving is not for you!

If you don't like my carbon foot print, stick it up your Prius!!
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#434218 - Sun Jul 20 2008 07:34 AM Re: to blast or not to blast that is the ? [Re: BIG CHEVY 3600]
Desert_buick Offline
Wrench Fetcher
Registered: Sat Oct 28 2006 12:00 PM
Posts: 128
Loc: Mooresville, NC
I started to sand blast mine, but the mess just wasn't worth it. Sand still shakes loose every time I jostle the cab. I also tried chemical stripping, but again the mess was too much to handle. It was a lot of work, but I ended up just using stripping discs.
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#434221 - Sun Jul 20 2008 07:52 AM Re: to blast or not to blast that is the ? [Re: UnklRod]
doc bob Offline
Shop Shark
Registered: Wed Jan 09 2008 01:40 AM
Posts: 610
Loc: Western Australia
What the H,

might throw in my 1.8 AUS cents worth too!

RE: Sodium Hydroxide Dipping.
I run a HUGE dip tank at work.
We use it to clean machinery parts before rebuilding.

It WILL clean off ALL rust, from light surface to full scale.
It WILL NOT remove thick grease, only light oils and even then this contaminates the strength of the mixture, as such all parts need to be thouroughly de-greased before dipping.

I have done many engine blocks, fuel tanks, diff housings and many othr parts over the years, and the results are hard to compare with any other method.Especially good as it gets to every surface of the part, even cleans the water jackets in an engine block!

I have found an engine block on the ground in a paddock, completely rusted, dipped it and had it come out with the original machined surfaces shining like they were done yesterday!

But this not really a good method for doing whole cabs.
Too many nooks and cranny's for the stuff to hide in, and it needs a good water rinsing before priming.
Use it for all your mechanical parts, guards, bonnets etc as it will find and destroy all rust that it touches no matter how bad it is.

I'd stay on the path of blast all you can, but leave the body to a professional.
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