I was rotating the tires on my '65 c10 and when I took the drum off of the right rear, I noticed this black stuff all over the brake shoes:

picture 1

So, if it is the wheel cylinder leaking, I have parts for that...

If it is a rear axle seal... how does that work? I read about it in the shop manual, but I'm fuzzy on what to do inside the differential cover and what tools to use to properly make the axle come out.

picture 2

picture 3


Any tips or suggestions welcome.

Thanks,

-W

Just from the pix, it looks like axle seals, the wheel cylinder looks dry to me. Does it have a funny smell? Gear oil has a rather noticable odor to it, unlike brake fluid, which, to me at least, has a somewhat metallicy smell. As to replacing the seals, the nice thing about the GM C clip rear is that they really aren't hard to do.
First, after removing the cover, rotate the diff carrier until the retainer bolt is accessable, it will be located on the passenger side of the carrier. Remove the retainer, be carefull, they are known to break. I've seen them be broken from the factory from being rammed in too hard. Once the retainer is out, rotate the carrier so that the cross pin can be remived. It should slide out with relative ease, but may need some coaxing ( a very light tap with a hammer and brass punch will do), the spider gears may come out too. That's not a problem, just make sure that when you go back in that they are clocked properly so the pin will fit. Onve the pin is out, push the axle in, about a 1/2", to allow the C clip to come out of the groove. The axle can then be removed from the housing. The seal can be removed with a seal puller, the manual shows pulling the seal and bearing together with a slide hammer. Unless you're going to replace the bearing, I fell that it's unnecessary to do that. Here's a neat trick that you can use if you don't have a seal puller, though. You can use the groove on the axle shaft as a puller. just lock the groove into the lip of the seal and pry. Most time the seal will pop right out.
Going back in with the seal, you'll want to use either a seal driver or a large socket/ peice of pipe that same size as the flange of the seal. Gently tap it in flush. Some manuals say to use #2 Permatex on the OD of the seal before installing, the manual for the '55 states to do that. Before re-installing the axxle, put some gear oil or grease on the seal lip to lubricate it. Going back together is the reverse of disassembly, be carefull to align the spiders if removed and don't overtighten the retainer pin.
If your brake shoes ar gooped up real bad, I would strongly suggest replacing those as well, as it is very difficult to impossible to clean oil out of brake friction material.

Someone sent me this link to this video:

'65 chevelle rear 10 bolt axle

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/1965-Chevelle-Blog-4-C-Clip-Axle-Removal_153887.htm


They say that axle is 'similiar' to my truck axle... or at least the process is.

This is pretty far down in the rabbit hole for me.

Hmn...

-W

It.s really not that bad Woogy. Those guys made it look harder then it is. Ive never had to roll one way in the back to get that pin out, but one thing if you pull the lock pin out & only part of it comes out you are in a bunch of doo-doo. Then you put it back in, go get drunk & start thinking about plan B. This doesn't happen often but you should know about it. If it is broken it,s nothing you did wrong & you can get back on the forum. Guys have different ways of removing the broken piece. If it comes out whole you are home free & the rest is easy. Slide the spider shaft down at an angle so it clears the bottom of housing. You don,t have to remove it all the way. If it comes out & the spider gears move out it,s no big deal. These old trucks didn,t have thrust washers like they showed. Some of the old trucks had a block between the axles. Remove it & push the axles in & remove the C clips & pull out the axles. If you have trouble get back on the forum. You will be proud of yourself when it,s done.

Thanks for the replies Longbox55 and Wrenchbender...

With working and being in school... I decided to take it to the shop. I figured I'd get it apart, and hit a snag or something and it'd really mess up my schedule.

I was seriously pondering doing it myself... but it seems anytime I get that far down the rabbit hole with this truck, I need some basic part and it'll take two days to get it... so everything stops.

The fun of a daily driver!

Well, at least my folks let me borrow their rides for school and work.

Thanks again fellas,

-W

A prelimnary report from the shop says there is some damage to the axle shaft... so he is running down part numbers from GM.

I have not talked to him directly yet, but it seems there is that damage, and there were some shims missing from the gears or something.

I'll keep ya'll informed... I might have to beg some part numbers off you guys tomorrow.

-W

Probably either missing shims or was shimmed wrong for the pinion gear to ring gear clearance. Shouldn't be any problem getting parts, theyr'e the same from '63-'76 for the 12 bolt truck axle. The only parts that may be different, depending on year, are the axle shafts and the side gears. GM made a running change in '65 from a 17 spline axle to a 30 spline. 30 spline parts can be swapped in, however. Should be able to get shims and other overhauul parts from the flaps or any axle supplier.

Thanks a bunch LongBox55.

I'll let my professional mechanic know, it may help.

-W

Does anyone have any sources for axle shafts?

I found this one through google:

http://www.uspowertrain.com/axlesGM.htm

3893605 <- gm part number my mechanic gave me


I also found this one:

http://www.drivetrain.com/axle.html



Anyone else?

-W

update:

This is another option I have found:

http://www.earlyclassic.com


search for: axle shaft


Axle Shafts, Replacement & Conversion

#02-6369AXL - '63-'69 6-Lug Replacement Axles Only