Kingpin replacement made fun and easy?
off you guys have to remember the same technology used on todays semi tractors
is basically the same as on pre '55 light trucks.
first thing to remove is the retaining bolts---and 2 inches of crud and 50 years
of grease! I use a propane torch to heat the crud after I've scraped off all I can. Then wire brush the area until the metal is clean. Then using a penetrating
oil called p.b. blaster, (some guys like k-w knocker loose, etc., but not me).
I never use W-D 40 because it evaporates. Let the bolts soak overnight. The
next day I put an impact on the bolt heads and TIGHTEN just alittle --- very little
-- then loosen.
I mention soaking the kingpins from the top and bottom too? I thought so.
after the retaining bolts come out, comes the fun. Place the truck axle on jackstands. Place a bottle jack with a bolt smaller than the kingpin diameter on the top
of the jack and jack up the truck just slightly off the jackstand -- about a
quarter of an inch. Now comes the the good part ------ WHAM-WHAM--WHAM --- @#$$%*&^^^%&
KINGPINS!!!! WHAM ----- tink -- a baby sledge right to the side of the
axle -- away from the grease fittings.
have NEVER heated an axle. I let the weight of the truck help push the old kingpins
out. So far, it has worked every time -- that's about 80 or so kingpins. For
replacements I use stainless steel. I'm not sure I'm sold on Teflon bushings,
so I still use brass.
the job, it's off to the alignment shop, and I insist they not heat the axle.
By the way, do you guys know what kills the king pins? Not enough grease, and
not greasing the axle properly. Always, jack the front axle off the ground when
greasing it. This takes the stress off the bushings so grease can flow all the
way around the kingpins. Some guys say you don't have to do this -- some guys
pay out the backside to replace kingpings, too.
the extra effort and keep yer money for more important things -- like them cute
little bug deflectors with the airplane propellers on them!