'Bolters helping 'Bolters is a beautiful thing!

          This job can be a real mess, but Ken says, "nay." He's got a tip for a cheap, easy to do headliner, that looks good, too. And looking at Ken's Bolts ... well, lookin' good is an understatement!

Headliner Installation for a Suburban / Carryall
By Ken "Bartamos" Law 1956 GMC Carryall 4 x 4 1957 Chevy Dairy Queen Panel Bolter # 6873 Arizona		July 2010 Questions & Answers on this Tech Tip

Secret revealed

Okay, you Suburban / Carryall owners! You want a cheap, easy, do-it-yourself, good-looking way to create a headliner. You know, that headache that's always discussed on this site in the Forums! What fiberboard to use? Where to get the material? Which glue is best or how to screw it on? How to keep it from sagging? It's time for the secret to be revealed.

I have kept "the secret" for a few years because I thought I may market it or get it into a magazine. I never did either. The Stovebolt site has helped me so much over the years that I decided to have the world-changing, life-changing reveal here as a "tip."

The tip involves NO glue. NO screws. No mess. No sewing. About $90.

The answer? Magnetic sign material.

Guess what our roofs are made of? Good guess: metal.

<< click images for larger view >>

No glue; no mess; no fuss; no muss

You will need about 20 feet of any color you want. It comes in 24" wide. This is wider than the distance between bows (I am only experienced with Task Force Suburbans).

Remove all of your metal valances -- front, back and sides. I am speaking of that metal that runs above the windows all the way around.

Here are two real good pics. One shows "in progress" with valances removed (you must see this pic) and the other shows the rolled up magnetic material pieces sitting on the valance sections.

After you have cleaned or sandblasted, wire-brushed, or sanded your inside roof, apply whatever rust stopper you wish. Don't put anything on that is too thick. This will reduce the magnetic hold.

Using a good utility knife, cut the length of the material to be long enough so that it's covered by the valences. In the pics on my kitchen counter (right) -- the black side is the magnetic side.  This cut is not critical, just 3-4 inches past the edges of the valance. The width of the stock material is 24" -- Cut it 1"-2" wider than the distance between bows. You will have to judge the gap between the bow and the roof to see if your's is tight or open. If you cut too narrow, you will see the edge; too long and you can't tuck.

After the first one, you will get the feel for this; or you can use a test piece to experiment with. Make sure you measure the distance between each bow set. They may not all be the same. If there is anything hard about this job, it is tucking under the space between the bows and the roof. Two people sitting comfortably side by side can tuck the back bow, then work the wrinkle into the front crack with plastic spatulas or any tool that works.

There are six pieces to make. The very front and the very back are really easy -- they only have one tuck. The rest is covered by the valance.

This material will contour to the curved corners of the front and rear and stick tight. When you're done and put the valances back on, you will want a signed autographed picture of me. But forget that, I'm all out.

The Vinyl material has a small amount of insulative and sound quieting qualities also. It comes in several colors (I used white) and can be colored and graphics can be added. You can see what can be done to customize the material by looking at all the magnetic signs around.

It really, really looks good and is not hard to do. Find it on eBay or at your local sign store. It really varies in price, so look around.

All you other guys with other year Suburbans and trucks, let your imagination run. It should work for almost everybody. Headliners, doors, etc. and don't forget the backs of our seats!!

Let me know if you have any trouble.

-30-

Now you know, and knowing is half the battle. ~ G.I. Joe